Yet-to-be-named 2016 Fiesta SE

[Phil_F_NM]

In most cases? Any person competent enough to jump start their car or change their own oil - they are much better off making their own judgement calls on service - whether it would be to get the right sneakers for it so you can enjoy the better ride onto making changes to the types of spark plugs to use onto the air cleaner conversions - they are also subjective mods, as to how the owner wants the car to perform.

It's tough enough these days just making the commute to and from work without getting smashed by other ignorant drivers - so leaving your car in the hands of someone that takes a lackadaisical attitude towards tune ups and customer requests for purchase - makes the dealership less favorable to continue doing business with them - I've had my share of those days too.

I completely agree with you.
I guess I'm only thinking of major maintenance issues which are covered under our warranty. Transmission issues beyond resetting the car's computer would be one thing. Timing belt and all the other things that should be replaced at that time would be another.
If the dealership is doing the work, they give us a courtesy car to use while ours is in the shop. It will be a tough call when I have to decide. I should get the Benz welded up and working so we have a spare car in case we need it.

Phil Forrest

 

[Handy Andy]

At least we are on the same boat!

the other one...
​

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I checked the MAP/MAF sensor today and it looked new. Granted, I'm not sure what I'm looking for but it wasn't caked with old oil, and seemed fine. I cleaned it off with a bit of electronics cleaner, reinstalled it, then started the car up. Ran it until it was fully warm and everything was good to go, as far as I can tell.
I'm wondering if there is any benefit to resetting the whole car by disconnecting the ground from the battery then jumpering the ground strap and the positive terminal to clear all the charge from all systems (this according to Ford's procedure for 2011 - up.) I suppose I could have the transmission re-learn my preferred driving style and start from a clean slate, but could this also be setting me up for other difficulties? With my most recent car purchase (a 1999 Benz E320 Wagon,) doing this would cause a few systems to have to be reset using a dealer-only program on a laptop hooked into the car via 38-pin connector. It wasn't simply clearing OBDII codes, but resetting the CANBUS. I don't have that ability and I'm not going to. EDIT: I forgot to mention that the 1999 Benz went to the crusher after finding a disturbing amount of rust hidden on the top of the rear subframe. I digress.

Payday is coming up. Stubby antenna, lug nuts, rally mud guards, and a new tray for the rear hatch compartment will be on the way.

Phil Forrest

 

[Handy Andy]

Thanks for keeping us in the loop, with Ford, you'll find their approach to be somewhat "redundant".

There are several systems - interconnected to communicate, but one can support the others when it comes to the required "program" needed to reestablish lost communication. The PCM is "burned" with its own and only reviews the CANBUS system as necessary - if anything were to fail - the Console aka the Hybrid Electronic Display HEC is set up to store data from pending DTC's and any special codes that are generated that are not typical OBD - DTC types. Systems, like SRS (Airbags) and Tire Pressure Monitoring System - are "alerts" but most of the time they are handled thru the Body Control Module or BCM.

So in reality, while there is the CANBUS which lets the two main hierarchies, the PCM and BCM work and communicate - they sort out the needed data as they communicate and the PCM takes precedence but the BCM has rights to access and can handle the HEC Information stored in the Console Cluster and also provides the "special codes" that the system will present to itself as "ok, what is this?", stored in the HEC memory.

The BCM then can process the CANBUS requests and also provides the PCM with any required information that it may need to handle specific needs of temperature, owner preferences - PATS - SYNC requests as well as transfer more bus information and diagnostics to the BCM for monitoring while the PCM focuses more on the Drive and Power Train realm - so the BCM then takes data and stores or in some cases notifies the operator/driver there are issues.

In fact, lots of their "sub modules" which like SRS, TRAC, TPMS ABS - which may require input to the PCM, the BCM handles and sorts out filters data, so the PCM isn't overloaded. The PCM is also designed to "ignore" some realms of data it used to process - for that has been taken over by the BCM.

By following the "reset" procedure, the system will simply "reboot" to its last known start point. IF the vehicle ever needed an update - like software upgrades and shift point setting to the PCM, that can't be readily done thru any OBD system, it is a J2534 support system that, requires along with the FORD upgrade PACK that allows these settings and updates to even be entered into the PCM as reprogramming. That is the "new start point" - if it was done correctly. Some OBDII scanners can show a firmware update version to help guide you to find the latest updates if you need them.

So, the simpler "pull the cable" and short it out to Positive to reset, is just that, a drain and reboot to last known good, is about all you're going to get.

When this is done - then the throttle and PCM will go thru another "learning process" to help the new user, and itself - acclimate to the new conditions.

When there is a more serious change or firmware update - those versions - if successful - also will show their "version ID" so if you need to know, might need a dealer or someone with a J2534 to find it - then using it, and the proper upgrade pack from FORD to "reprogram" any changes.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I found that the rear hatch window leaks water when it really rains hard. Just a small amount but I want to nip this leak in the bud. I've already got one rusty car and don't need another.
That said, does anyone know how to gain access to the upper edge of the hatch glass? I want to re-seal it with some window sealing caulk (for cars, not houses) before it gets really wet here with our summer torrential rains.

Phil Forrest

 

[Handy Andy]

There are videos in YT about the Fiesta - you will have to remove the rear spoiler - it is a simple cover and uses Torx head screws and Hex-head bolts.

​

The rear spoiler has at least 4 Torx head screws and several plastic push clips to fix the cover. There are two main bolts to hold the spoiler - are ones in the hatch, that use hole plugs to cover them and just open the hatch and their covers are right there...in front above the seal and between the hinges.

​

You also have to remove the 3rd rear brake light and watch out for the hose from the "squirt squirt" washer line to the front for your rear wiper. That one-piece assembly uses two torx screws.

 

[LionsTooth]

There are videos in YT about the Fiesta - you will have to remove the rear spoiler - it is a simple cover and uses Torx head screws and Hex-head bolts.

View attachment 6372​

The rear spoiler has at least 4 Torx head screws and several plastic push clips to fix the cover. There are two main bolts to hold the spoiler - are ones in the hatch, that use hole plugs to cover them and just open the hatch and their covers are right there...in front above the seal and between the hinges.

View attachment 6373​

You also have to remove the 3rd rear brake light and watch out for the hose from the "squirt squirt" washer line to the front for your rear wiper. That one-piece assembly uses two torx screws.

Hand Andy beat me to it. I have pulled the wing off a couple of times...very easy to do.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

New chrome lug nuts went on today.
As for the old nuts, WHO THE EFF THOUGHT IT WAS A GOOD IDEA TO CAP THE NUTS THAT WAY!?!?
Some of them had been replaced with decent nuts, but there were a total of three different kinds of nuts on the car. All the same size wrench but a few of those replacements were different lengths added on piecemeal. As for the 2 piece capped nuts, I had to use some "gentle persuasion" to remove each of those pieces of garbage from my socket.
Anyway, all were replaced today with a set of new nuts, torqued down properly, not just wrenched on willy nilly.
Stubbie antenna went on yesterday. Locking gas cap just arrived in the mail a few minutes ago.
I'm going to put on a new rear wiper blade when I get to that rear glass seal.

I think I need new shocks and struts but first I have to take a bumpy drive without tools and a short section of 2x4 in the car to isolate the noise. Philly streets can be hell on suspension. Overall, I really like the car.

Phil Forrest

 

[LionsTooth]

New chrome lug nuts went on today.
As for the old nuts, WHO THE EFF THOUGHT IT WAS A GOOD IDEA TO CAP THE NUTS THAT WAY!?!?
Some of them had been replaced with decent nuts, but there were a total of three different kinds of nuts on the car. All the same size wrench but a few of those replacements were different lengths added on piecemeal. As for the 2 piece capped nuts, I had to use some "gentle persuasion" to remove each of those pieces of garbage from my socket.
Anyway, all were replaced today with a set of new nuts, torqued down properly, not just wrenched on willy nilly.
Stubbie antenna went on yesterday. Locking gas cap just arrived in the mail a few minutes ago.
I'm going to put on a new rear wiper blade when I get to that rear glass seal.

I think I need new shocks and struts but first I have to take a bumpy drive without tools and a short section of 2x4 in the car to isolate the noise. Philly streets can be hell on suspension. Overall, I really like the car.

Phil Forrest

I hear your pain!

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I took the little spoiler off the hatch today and found why there was a leak. Whoever put on the excessively thick bead/s of window sealant missed several places. One spot over on the far left of the window was both very thick and sitting on the upper edge of the glass but not sealing against the hatch itself. The other spot was just a gap. I pulled off all the excessive seal and cleaned all the surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Then I rolled in a thick bead of window bedding sealer, smoothed it out and buttoned the whole thing up. Total of 30 minutes I think.

Phil Forrest

 

[Handy Andy]

Any rust trails or damage from the leak?

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Any rust trails or damage from the leak?

None that I could find, thank goodness!
We have a few days of steady rain coming up, so I feel like I did this just in time.

Phil Forrest

 

[Phil_F_NM]

It rained all night and the rear window seal fix held up. No moisture in the car that I can find. ::knock on wood::

Phil Forrest

 

[Handy Andy]

rear window seal fix held up. No moisture in the car that I can find.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Put in a new parcel tray today.
The car didn't have one when we took ownership and the driver's side tab was broken off.
I made a new tab with a 1/4 x 20 allen head bolt, a short section of fuel hose, a few wide washers, lock washer and a nut. I think my fix is superior to the factory molded plastic mounting tab, if I may say so myself.
The new shelf went in perfectly and is a perfect fit.

http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/532438-2/IMG_0012.JPG
http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/532443-2/IMG_0013.JPG

Sorry to attach only links, I'm trying to figure out how to get images linking from my host.

Phil Forrest

 

[LionsTooth]

Put in a new parcel tray today.
The car didn't have one when we took ownership and the driver's side tab was broken off.
I made a new tab with a 1/4 x 20 allen head bolt, a short section of fuel hose, a few wide washers, lock washer and a nut. I think my fix is superior to the factory molded plastic mounting tab, if I may say so myself.
The new shelf went in perfectly and is a perfect fit.

http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/532438-2/IMG_0012.JPG
http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/532443-2/IMG_0013.JPG

Sorry to attach only links, I'm trying to figure out how to get images linking from my host.

Phil Forrest

You can just drag photos into the post.

 

[Handy Andy]

Ya did good!

 

[Phil_F_NM]

I'll pull out the tray and shoot a photo of the mounting tab I made.
I'm really glad I did that rear window seal the other day.
It's been raining since last night with a few lulls here and there, as well as some very heavy rain. We drove to the grocery store at about 6:30 this evening and when we got home an hour later, the rain had picked up so much that I found, much to my dismay, the low spot in the driveway, right in front of the garage was under about 4 inches of water. The storm drains aren't draining, probably because the volume is simply too much for the mains to pull away from houses. Our house is the low spot on the block as well, so the water always flows towards our drain. This really sucks because that means there's probably an inch of water in the garage, under my Benz, and possibly consuming the seats which are on the floor right behind the car.
Anyway, it's good to have one dry (on the inside) car.

Phil Forrest

 

[Phil_F_NM]

The more I drive my SE, the more I find myself wanting an ST...

Phil Forrest

 

[econoboxrocks]

The more I drive my SE, the more I find myself wanting an ST...

Phil Forrest

I knew when this car came out in '14, that it would be my next car. Bought one new in Dec. '17. It is so good. You won't find more bang for the buck in the US.
5-door hatch practicality, great power with a few mods, decent mpg and it handles like a go cart. Stone reliable, too.

Find a clean one and buy it. Not the deal I got, but still a good deal. If mine got totaled, I'd replace it with another FiST.

My comment on the Savage Geese review of the car:

No one buys a FiST for the interior. The stereo is adequate, not great. The ride is stiff, but that can be changed if it bugs you, for not too much money. Ford put all the ST (Sports Technologies) money into performance, and they nailed it. It comes with 4 wheel discs (the base Fiesta has drums in back), sport suspension and wheels, and a powerful, reliable little motor and tranny that can handle 300 horsepower out of the crate, if you want more power.

It has the practicality of a 5 door econobox combined with performance that rivals sports cars in its price range, and I get around 30 mpg in mixed driving.

I've driven a lot of cars, including some very high end exotics, and none of them are any more engaging than the humble FiST. It's a giggle to drive. It's the car equivalent of a fast dirt bike. It's simple and raw, and it loves to rip it up; something you don't see much in cars these days.

"I spend most of my life whizzing hither and thither in exotica made from platinum and rhodium and fitted with engines that roar and bellow and spit fire. And all I want on the way home is a Ford Fiesta ST." -Jeremy Clarkson