Yet-to-be-named 2016 Fiesta SE

[Phil_F_NM]

Ok folks, any tips on getting that service wrench indicator to reset? The little wrench and the oil change message will simply not go away. I've followed instructions to turn the car ON (no start), hold brake and accelerator pedals down fully for 25 seconds, turn car off, wait two minutes, start car to check if it's reset. I've done this like 5 times now and the thing won't reset. Any tips are helpful!

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Belay my last. I got it to reset. I just wasn't waiting long enough before restarting the car.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Ok, it's time to do the shocks/struts, tighten everything up, maybe new springs, and then tackle the timing belt. I'm just under 100,000 miles, and the belt hasn't been done yet.
I have read in the forum that the Bilstein B6 all around are awesome. I want some better suspension like Bilstein because the Philly streets are killing the stock components.
Apologies if I've forgotten/missed a post about a suspension "kit", but is there such an animal for the Fiesta? I just want good handling, no rattling, better longevity, so I'm just about dead set on the Bilsteins (they always worked fantastically under my 1972 Benz.)
After the suspension, the timing belt will need to get done. I know how to do it in a 70s diesel but this little hamster wheel is completely new to me.
Thanks all for any recommendations.
Phil

 

[scotman]

I can confirm that the B6 Bilstien is a genuine heavy duty damper. From everything that I have read, which is everything that I could find, these dampers are also compatible with mild lowering springs.
You might want to replace the upper strut mount thrust bearings on the front struts. They get tired by 100k.
The other bushings that get worn out by 100k is the front anti sway bar frame bushings that bolt on top of the subframe. They are sponge rubber soft when they are new.
You might as well replace the water pump when you do the timing set. It’s behind the timing belt and not expensive to do, saves you a potential headache later.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

If you want struts that will last, get monotube units...end of story. They have more fluid, run cooler and will last longer. This usually means a bit of searching to get the info. Twin tube are basically a smaller strut inside an outer tube and I have found they dont last more than 3-4 years on rough (Canadian Shield) roads. Scotman is spot on, your suspension is only as good as the weakest link. Bad components cause more wear on other components. The system is engineered to work together as a single unit.

 

[Handy Andy]

You might as well replace the water pump when you do the timing set. It’s behind the timing belt and not expensive to do, saves you a potential headache later.

+1 - from a guy who got left stranded due to a failed Water pump...

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[Phil_F_NM]

Anyone ever block off that gap under the rear of the car which allows air to be caught by that black plastic "scoop"? Alternately, did anyone ever vent it somehow (black mesh)? If so did you see an increase in fuel mileage?

 

[LionsTooth]

I considered this, but haven't gotten to it yet. https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/2015-se-hb-build.7797/post-19691

 

[MarcellSVT]

Is it leaking at the head gasket, if so can you smell coolant out the tailpipe....put your palm close to the tailpipe and smell your palm; any moisture that smells of coolant?

 

[Phil_F_NM]

Odometer is at 1009nn and counting. Still need to do all the maintenance items I posted about above: shocks, struts, and now the timing belt, so I'm playing with fire. I wrote the longer maintenance post above on July 2, 2023. Since then, I've been laid off and struggling to find work in my field which isn't more than an hour drive away. Just rambling here.
Phil

 

[Handy Andy]

We are rooting for you!

Its rough everywhere...

Thank you for stopping by to let us know you're ok!