OP
Thread Starter
#41
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- City
- LOUISVILLE
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- KY
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- United States
- What I Drive
- 2016 Fiesta Titanium Hatchback
Thread Starter
#41
Andy thanks for that detailed response.
I am starting to feel overwhelmed. Not from your detailed info, but it seems like every test brings more and more tests gaining ZERO ground and sometimes gaining negative ground.
So much that seems like it should be common sense is just the opposite and makes no sense at all.
For example, the plugs, wires, and VSS all tested outside of range, yet replacing those parts including the CMPs got me absolutely no ground at all in solving the underlying issue. It did solve other issues like misfires. Not to mention the persistent Circut B Bank 1 CMP codes.
even with ALLDATA, I cannot find what the heck Circut B is. Why isn't it Bank1 Sensor 1? Why not P06A7 Sensor reference voltage B Circuit Range/Performance? Causes: short-to-voltage, short-to-ground, or sensor damage. Again where is B circuit?
This last attempt to start her after the battery was disconnected for over a week was better as instead of a 1 time sounding like she would start at the beginning of the cranking process, during the entire cranking period it sounded like she was trying to fire up. Like every time the cylinders fired, something stopped it dead in its tracks.
This is the reason why I do not particularly want to tear down the engine to determine TDC. I have a feeling that I will find no problem there as well leaving me back to square 1 with no additional information to work with.
Other examples come to mind about common sense:
If these issues are related to a minor sitting still accident why did it take a year to rear its ugly head and why a sudden and not gradual loss of system integrity?
The car ran fine even after the mirror was ripped off the car. If the SRS sensor was triggered, why not an immediate breakdown instead of a week-long use of the vehicle?
Why continue P0365 and P0369 with NO OTHER codes such as timing or crankcase timing issues?
There is absolutely ZERO common sense related to these issues.
There are a few things I noticed in your posts that I did wrong. After pulling each fuse I replaced them instead of leaving them out. So I am going to start at the Battery Positive area find the system that puts the light out and work from there. I will also replace the Crank position sensor.
thank you for your time and support, I'll keep you posted.
I am starting to feel overwhelmed. Not from your detailed info, but it seems like every test brings more and more tests gaining ZERO ground and sometimes gaining negative ground.
So much that seems like it should be common sense is just the opposite and makes no sense at all.
For example, the plugs, wires, and VSS all tested outside of range, yet replacing those parts including the CMPs got me absolutely no ground at all in solving the underlying issue. It did solve other issues like misfires. Not to mention the persistent Circut B Bank 1 CMP codes.
even with ALLDATA, I cannot find what the heck Circut B is. Why isn't it Bank1 Sensor 1? Why not P06A7 Sensor reference voltage B Circuit Range/Performance? Causes: short-to-voltage, short-to-ground, or sensor damage. Again where is B circuit?
This last attempt to start her after the battery was disconnected for over a week was better as instead of a 1 time sounding like she would start at the beginning of the cranking process, during the entire cranking period it sounded like she was trying to fire up. Like every time the cylinders fired, something stopped it dead in its tracks.
This is the reason why I do not particularly want to tear down the engine to determine TDC. I have a feeling that I will find no problem there as well leaving me back to square 1 with no additional information to work with.
Other examples come to mind about common sense:
If these issues are related to a minor sitting still accident why did it take a year to rear its ugly head and why a sudden and not gradual loss of system integrity?
The car ran fine even after the mirror was ripped off the car. If the SRS sensor was triggered, why not an immediate breakdown instead of a week-long use of the vehicle?
Why continue P0365 and P0369 with NO OTHER codes such as timing or crankcase timing issues?
There is absolutely ZERO common sense related to these issues.
There are a few things I noticed in your posts that I did wrong. After pulling each fuse I replaced them instead of leaving them out. So I am going to start at the Battery Positive area find the system that puts the light out and work from there. I will also replace the Crank position sensor.
thank you for your time and support, I'll keep you posted.
