Spark plug wire resistance

[Daveb40258]

Hi everyone,
Can anyone give me the sparkplug wire resistance for the 1.6L sigma?
Mine show:
#1 5320 ohms
#2 3650 ohms
#3 2213 ohms
#4 2345 ohms
Thanks

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, usually the "ohms per ft" is in the range of 1kΩ to about 1.5kΩ(or 1,000 ohms to 1,500 ohms) linearly per foot.

"Linearly" means should be the same per foot of measurement - no matter where that one foot length in measured.

So plug 1 seems high, because it's barely 2.1ft long (if that - including the boots)

Only the value you're seeing in number 3 cylinder is even close.

So you thinking you have oil contamination? That in itself is possible due to the ability of oil to "soak" into the jacket and any openings in the casings of the boots, to wick into and "gobble up" any free carbon - preventing it from being a conductor of any type of value.

Considering it's also prevalent every-time you change the oil you risk the cross contamination of oil into those boots from any spillage.

 

[Daveb40258]

actually no. I use a funnel on every oil change.
so today I put a new battery in and a new MAPT sensor and she tried to start but just couldn't seem to fire. while cranking my wife said she saw a bright blue spark. So I decided to check the wire resistance. I agree with your assessment of the high resistance for these short wires. I never thought to check them because they have less than 15k miles on them.
I GOT SO PISSED OFF AFTER SPENDING $200+ TODAY I bought a month of ALLDATA. It was incredibly inexpensive considering a HAYNES is about 40 bucks and I'll use it once. As you will soon see, another waste of money:
The Camshaft position sensor in this case on a 1.6L TIVCT engine is C1653: Camshaft Position Bank 1 Sensor 1 or CMP11 (pic 6). In the same diagram, please notice the C108 Intake Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) that should be a VCT. If this doesn't confuse TF out of you then I digress.
Now look at pic 5. C1654 Exhaust Camshaft position sensor (CMP) no bank or sensor number. Look at C1452 Exhaust Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Solinoid VCT. wtf. Oh, it's getting better. let's see what the error codes I have been getting since this BS started P0365 (pics 3 and 4) and P0369 (pics 1 and 2). According to the diagrams and countless pages of information, I have changed the WRONG CMPs, or have I? So again I ask:
Someone, PLEASE TELL ME: P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor Circut B bank 1 WHERE TF is that located on these diagrams???????
My intuition says OK circuit B MUST be the exhaust side since there is no bank or sensor number. But wait the VCT that they call Intake CMP again no bank or sensor number WTF is that? There is an exhaust VCT but no intake? is the intake Circuit A????
UGH, I pine for my 1966 Dodge Belvedere with a slant 6, things were so much easier then. To think in my HS yearbook my goal in life was to have my own Auto Repair Shop. Thank god that never happened I'd be dead.
There we have it, I needed a battery anyway. but 200 bucks later I still have 2016 in my garage making payments for more than it's worth and it won't start. YAY for me!! On the bright side, I have the 1995 BMW I HAD to buy just to get to work. LOL, have you seen the price of Premium unleaded? I'd be better off whipping my ass with $100 bills.

[/QUOTE]

 

[scotman]

I would be looking at the coil pack with deep suspicion. I had a coil pack fail on cylinder 1 and 3 @ around 65k on my 2011. I just figured that the wire set was failing and replaced it without looking at the coil.

 

[Handy Andy]

Your on the right track.

The blue spark coming from the wires - in a particular spot - is very much likely a good indication of what those diagnostics were referring to under diagnostic aids.

You noticed right away the wires were quite high in their ohmic readings and questioned it.

I only came up with the notion of spilled oil because I've seen this so many times myself - even in the older 8's from GM using the HEDI system (coil on the cap stuff) the arcing was very evident. (Sorry was not trying to invite trouble - the oil were given off the shelves these days is more aggressive when it comes to wetting; penetrations and reactions to polymers it thinks are part of itself and tries to mitigate their acids)

So to me, if the wires weren't marked by a dealer as being checked, or those dealers never did any follow up. Then yes, I'd be pissed to. Especially if the marks were REMOVED by someone before you got it and in their removal they were mishandled, were pulled or handled roughly during this - it only takes one wire to fry up a sensor and or the inputs to the PCM from it. The flash-over can spike the inputs beyond their means to handle it.

The damage may not have gone too that severe yet, but the noise from the bad wires could be causing this.

Use you cars AM radio in the Console, listen to a weak AM station as you drive - the popping sounds heard may be the noise your cars sensors are seeing and are having harder and harder times reading data. See if tuning in various stations changes the level or volume of this noise does it's signals strength fade or flutter - stuff like that - drown out the popping of it is pretty consistent - like maybe it's unfiltered power source noises (controlling audio volume doesn't change the noise - it's always at the same volume and doesn't change) perhaps from a weaker battery or power connection back at the fuse box from a relay

Don't worry, you're not alone - if you look at some of my very early posts you'd find I too had to track down glitches in operation of my own car and it's a Manual 5-speed - not a DCT(?!) so why is it having so many electrical problems?

Well, to be honest, the vehicle is a ~$12K to $13K base priced car made in other couturiers that were not very stable socially and politically which made their reliability more questionable as their countries modified and Ford couldn't see any future in it's global approach to making them in regions of unstable corporate communities.

Sadly the Fiesta as great of a concept as it was, ran into the corruption as much as the corrosion - endured the fallout and we are trying to hold onto such investments as they too become victims of drivers of other vehicles. Their poor driving habits taking out these cars in accidents that now insirance companies are totalling out these cars more than saving them.

 

[Daveb40258]

I would be looking at the coil pack with deep suspicion. I had a coil pack fail on cylinder 1 and 3 @ around 65k on my 2011. I just figured that the wire set was failing and replaced it without looking at the coil.

Scotman
Thanks for the reply.
It's a brand-new coil pack!! My god man Is anything made with pride anymore?

 

[Daveb40258]

Your on the right track.

The blue spark coming from the wires - in a particular spot - is very much likely a good indication of what those diagnostics were referring to under diagnostic aids.

You noticed right away the wires were quite high in their ohmic readings and questioned it.

I only came up with the notion of spilled oil because I've seen this so many times myself - even in the older 8's from GM using the HEDI system (coil on the cap stuff) the arcing was very evident. (Sorry was not trying to invite trouble - the oil were given off the shelves these days is more aggressive when it comes to wetting; penetrations and reactions to polymers it thinks are part of itself and tries to mitigate their acids)

So to me, if the wires weren't marked by a dealer as being checked, or those dealers never did any follow up. Then yes, I'd be pissed to. Especially if the marks were REMOVED by someone before you got it and in their removal they were mishandled, were pulled or handled roughly during this - it only takes one wire to fry up a sensor and or the inputs to the PCM from it. The flash-over can spike the inputs beyond their means to handle it.

The damage may not have gone too that severe yet, but the noise from the bad wires could be causing this.

Use you cars AM radio in the Console, listen to a weak AM station as you drive - the popping sounds heard may be the noise your cars sensors are seeing and are having harder and harder times reading data. See if tuning in various stations changes the level or volume of this noise does it's signals strength fade or flutter - stuff like that - drown out the popping of it is pretty consistent - like maybe it's unfiltered power source noises (controlling audio volume doesn't change the noise - it's always at the same volume and doesn't change) perhaps from a weaker battery or power connection back at the fuse box from a relay

Don't worry, you're not alone - if you look at some of my very early posts you'd find I too had to track down glitches in operation of my own car and it's a Manual 5-speed - not a DCT(?!) so why is it having so many electrical problems?

Well, to be honest, the vehicle is a ~$12K to $13K base priced car made in other couturiers that were not very stable socially and politically which made their reliability more questionable as their countries modified and Ford couldn't see any future in it's global approach to making them in regions of unstable corporate communities.

Sadly the Fiesta as great of a concept as it was, ran into the corruption as much as the corrosion - endured the fallout and we are trying to hold onto such investments as they too become victims of drivers of other vehicles. Their poor driving habits taking out these cars in accidents that now insirance companies are totalling out these cars more than saving them.

ANDY,
Honestly, it takes more than suggesting the oil thing to warrant any trouble from me, especially when I am here begging for help.
To be very clear I love this car. Fun to drive, it has good pickup for a sub-compact, the MPG is amazing, and the Titanium package is also a great upgrade making it way above any other in its class, Especially the SONY Sound System!!!

So let's get to the bottom line so maybe I can avoid major $$ spent throwing parts at her.

Here is what I have done:

Replaced the Evap Purge Valve (I cut the hoses and spliced them with reinforced fuel line and hose clamps)
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced coil pack (done by another shop and the work is guaranteed)
Replaced what I believe is the Circut B Bank 1 CMP (3 times)
Oil change
Replaced air filter
Cleaned the Throttle Body (BTW, the intake was incredibly clean considering losing a qt of oil due to some blowby)
**Removed the PCV hose to check if it was wet and it wasn't. (is it safe to assume the PCV is ok?)
Replaced the MAPF sensor (MAP IAT sensor)
Replaced the Battery
Oil and coolant are not contaminated
Cleaned ALL the ground points and have continuity throughout
re-checked all the fuses
The fuel pump sounds like she is running
*** Before the cranking no start the last codes are STILL P0365 and P0369 and the new P0111 (IAT out of range)

Please give me your thoughts based on all the info, test results etc.. on the next course of action.
Here are my thoughts and tell me what I should do first (or maybe not at all if you feel it's overkill)

1. According to ALLDATA the reason those CMP codes are still there is maybe the PCM is looking at a failed VCT/oil control valve failure on bank 1. If I replace one I should replace both. Including another oil change. Could be why it's an intermittent fault.
2. Replace the plug wires
3. Replace the coil pack.
4. I have not done anything with the O2 sensors. the LONGTERMFT is always negative (-), something is causing this rich fuel to make the system try to lean it out. So, is it a bad O2 caused by the blowby? If there is anything I have learned just fixing the problem doesn't necessarily fix the cause. That said I do not know what else I can do.

WHAT I HAVE NOT DONE (MAYBE I SHOULD)

1. Check for a voltage drain. Using a multimeter I do not see one when measuring across the battery terminals. Should I be checking other points of contact on the car?
2. replace the PCV
3. check the Evap Canister. I replaced it on 03-2023
4. check compression (I'd have to buy a compression tester) I feel like even with bad compression there would be so many other issues that point to it and she would at least fire.
5. TIMING BELT
6. THIS IS MY FAVORITE:
REINSTATE MY CARSHIELD WAIT FOR THE REQUIRED TIME AND CALL THEM UP...hey IDK what happened she just stopped running. I won't feel bad considering I paid for the diamond package for 2 years before canceling. ($2,039.64)

Well, if I left anything out please let me know. I would love to solve this problem so in case any other person runs across this issue the answer is not far from here.
AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR THE REPLY.

 

[Handy Andy]

One thing that I often do for "stubborn" results is to verify the ground at the sensor is at the same potential at the battery return.

Why say the above? There is the issue of OOR (Out-Of-Range) errors - usually due to lack of voltage or lack of voltage swing across a known reference - the PCM has to know at any given moment a value at a sensor - so the system uses a means to check the input to make sure it is correct - so they use a reference and that reference is placed across the sensor output as a weight - the differences that then appear are supposed to be with in a given set of values or in these cars, a voltage.

So if there are problems supplying voltages to operate the sensor - the system tries to determine a reason for those readings if it can't find a good reason in a diagnostic, it looks to tables of values the Sensor should provide if the car is supposed to be running normally as "Expected" and the sensors returned value as "Obtained" if they are not in agreement - the system then checks and returns a result from the check (a process of validation of the sensor input)

You can supply a sensor 12V - but if the 12V has no good return or the sense wire is not properly "terminated" - you can see a higher than normal result because the operation voltage is the 12V but it has to know what "Zero volt" - refer to this as Ground) references. (What it's compared against)

Same applies to the sensor if it can't see "enough" voltage to operate the sensor - as in its a load on the circuit sending power to it, but it (that sensor) can't send or operated properly due to the voltage present is not enough to run the sensor - but the system sees a no-load of 12V but if it runs the sensor that voltage drops - so the sense output is too low - again an Out-Of-Range error.

To check for a votlage drain, the battery cable is pulled when it's been turned off and resting cold - and you use the meter in mA or 10A setting - to see about any pull the battery may see from devices the system still powers up - in mA or Amps - any drain means a device is still pulling power and is not shutting down - this too can cause a sesor to send wrong input - because a sub-system is sucking power and the battery drains and drops voltage so the keep alive memtory can be affected.

Here's what I do to cut to a chase...

Pull the connector and run a continuity check on the sensors "return" wire - ohmic, make sure is should be below 1 ohm and if not - clean or reseat contacts to fix any ohmic results get it to 0 ohms as much as possible. Reattach the connector and backprobe that ground return wire and if possible turn the key on and don't start the car - place the meter in V or mV reading and see if the Ground reference wire and the battery negative post across that meter (positive to Sensor return while Ground goes to the Black lead on the meter) and is showing 0V - if a residual voltage appears in the mV setting - the ground of the device back to the PCM (most likely) is poorly grounded - it can't "find "Zero reference".

Do the same to check power supplied to the sensor - if the sensor pulls too much current - the voltage will drop - it may be the wrong sensor or type of sensor or the wiring pinout of the replacement device is different than the OEM one. Some of this vehicles sensors use and operate on a low - voltage (CAN-bus) on 5V but it's supplied thru the Body control Module while another 5V reference is sent to the Alternator thru the PCM wiring to the ignition system and charging system - and the PCM reference is checked to the BCM one using the CAN-bus.

Thats the best "train of thought" I've had to do to track down goofy resutls and most of them have been pointed to bad ground bonding points - block and frame of the car inclusive and Ford uses (at least) three identifying types of wiring color-coded to denote Ground - Black with Blue - Black with Green and Black with Yellow stripes - all are Ground - they are supposed to show the types of reference to ground as they are in bonding points; being Block, Frame and Battery

Thats just for starters.

 

[Daveb40258]

Just for starters?? YAY!!

To check for a voltage drain, the battery cable is pulled when it's been turned off and resting cold - and you use the meter in mA or 10A setting - to see about any pull the battery may see from devices the system still powers up - in mA or Amps - any drain means a device is still pulling power and is not shutting down
Which cable are we talking about? The positive, then check across the battery terminals.

Pull the connector and run a continuity check on the sensor "return" wire
Are you talking the wire "to" the PCM? yellow and red stripe?

Electronics isn't exactly my strong suit unless I have instructions I can wrap my head around. Please don't think I am saying your instructions stink, just want to make sure I understand.

For example: When I tested the VCT solenoids there were 4.9 volts to and from the PCM. Does that sound about right? I seem to remember though (I should have written this stuff down), an issue with the power voltage. I think it was 3 volts or something like that. I'll test it again.

By the way honestly, you only read half of my posts huh? I ask because you never seem to answer some of my stupid questions. LOL just curious.

As always, Thanks for the reply and the info!

 

[Handy Andy]

Well, I was going to add more, but the issues around the DBW (Drive By Wire) is frustrating to say the least.

I know it only seems like I read only 1/2 your posts, but to cover it all in a single reply- I'd be asking if I sent a

LT;DR moment

And you fell asleep trying to read it...

I would look at what I had in the sensors and whats wrong with them on the car first then buy sensors as the issues of "brokenness" showed up - why? because if not you may simply be swapping sensors on a broken system - similar to re-arranging chairs on the Titanic after it hit the iceberg...

CELINE_DION=Off
(Sorry had to set a flag so YT doesn't embed a vid here in response)

So I see you swapped and traded a lot of parts but still we have this problem.

You check the power delivery at the sensor - if the power drops too much as in resistance across the connections from all that harness wire to the sensor - and the same for the return - the sense wire will return a result that is out of range.

There is a thread or two about the "rich to lean" condition someone had posted about the O2 sensors already but it was related to a loop back test function in the system the user engaged to force a test mode diagnostic all he time so it ran great, but did lousy on the Gas mileage.

So to continue I will have to give more time to the next post just wanted to post this to say I'm with you on this just busy.

Wife's already punching me to get back to her morning routine...

 

[Daveb40258]

That makes sense. I'm sorry if I came across a lil frustrated but I'm very very frustrated, so a lil frustrated is the best I can do.
So with that said. I'm going to spend my day off watching YouTube and testing wires.
I wish I could find a service manual for that car. Only took 5 seconds to find one for a 95 BMW. Free.
I'll check Alldata and hope they have all the voltage and ohms specs for the sensors.
Anyway, thanks again Andy for the reply and you info!

 

[Handy Andy]

Boy, you've been busy with this!

Ok, I see why you got a little irked - you did do a lot of replacements but the part I see about "grounds" is what bothers me, the code has not cleared yet, so why this is sticking in there tells me either a relearn process of driving cycles or a forced relearn - that may take a scanner tool capable of forcing a reset/erase of profile data and relearn fuel/air mixture and throttle setting all over again.

That brings up the VVT - the Exhaust C1452 while Intake side if C1451 - so these two connectors - if you can - back probe the "ground side" by pressing that sharp Red tip lead of the meter between the wires grommet and the case it seals to - carefully and try to probe into the metal of that connector crimp and also take the black lead all the way back to the battery and clamp it down on the Negative post - you'll need to see on the power up for start - that the solenoid during the idle (if it will start and run) so see if a voltage appears on the meter for moments while the initialization begins - if it pops up several volts - there may be a splice in the wire loom where this solenoids return goes into - that is bad or failing.

You also have two main grounds G101 and G102 which looks like G102 is the FRAME bond points - while the G101 bolts to the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet at a common pass thru bolt - this ground is a common for the engine block. G102 is a bond of the Engine Block, Fan / shroud and front nose electrical - which is located just underneath the Airbox and is a special bolt hign in Nickel so it doesn't corrode as badly as a typical galvanized steel one.

There is also a G114 - that looks to bolt somewhere close to two bolts I see for Bond from both Black with Blue stripe and Black with Yellow Stripe on a tab on the back firewall. This bond is for common tie even for the interior of the vehicle sharging the same "shell" as the passenger compartment

So you know, that aluminum is anodized yet oxides are all over - so be sure that you do have good ground showing there (referring to the Engine Block and Tranny bolt ground mounting location).

Did you have a chance to listen to the AM radio in the car yet? I know it sounds silly but I'd like to know if you hear any hash noise on the key going from ACC to ON before start? (Referring to Fuel pump and or solenoid / relay activation noises signal a noisy line in what may interfere with pure signal without all the noise it needs to listen for)

The reason why this comes up is due to the relays versus the "conversions" FORD did to the BCM and even to the Fuse Blocks - the issues of the physical relay contacts - being that they are metal and pitted easily from high current arcing - but only if the loads they switch are high. This pitting can generate a noise or spike that can also affect the ability to provide a stable power source for a long lifetime - if a relay is bad - they can produce a noise in the electrical line they switch - which you can use the AM radio to listen for as that line works to power a given device.

It's also important to note -Ford did and is now seemingly - using MOSFET-based relay (Solid-state) designs to switch loads now which is much more electrically quieter and rather durable - except for they are static prode devices that means they can fail if reverse EMF or EMP are produced in close proximity - the BCM holds this MOSFET design more thant the exterior fuseblocks - but they are starting to utilize Solid State relay designs to replace their older mechanical relays.

 

[Daveb40258]

Good evening Andy,
TBH I took the entire day off of everything. I played my les Paul to some Allman Brothers and just relaxed. Listening to the ABB and trying to keep up with Duane and Dickey is so relaxing to me. I really needed it.

So I have not looked at the car today.
When I get home from work tomorrow around 330, I'll do those tests you mentioned above.

She still only cranks and the very first 2 seconds she sounds like she wants to start then it's almost like she's missing fuel, spark, or compression.
I smell fuel so she's getting fuel
There is not any coolant or oil contamination so there should be compression
Spark could indeed be a missing because of those wires.
I relaxed at home all day
So as Mr Scott said to Captain Kirk: it gave me a chance to catch up on my technical journals. "The Trouble with Tribbles" lol
Have a good evening sir, and as always:
Thanks for the reply and the info!

 

[Daveb40258]

That brings up the VVT - the Exhaust C1452 while Intake side if C1451 -

You also have two main grounds G101 and G102 which looks like G102 is the FRAME bond points - while the G101 bolts to the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet at a common pass thru bolt - this ground is a common for the engine block. G102 is a bond of the Engine Block, Fan / shroud and front nose electrical - which is located just underneath the Airbox and is a special bolt hign in Nickel so it doesn't corrode as badly as a typical galvanized steel one.

There is also a G114 - that looks to bolt somewhere close to two bolts I see for Bond from both Black with Blue stripe and Black with Yellow Stripe on a tab on the back firewall.
===================
Ok here are the measurements on 1451 and 1452
9.8 volts at the plug. The solenoid actuates with power however the ohms between the two plugs on the solenoid are 8.0 ohms intake and 7.9 ohms exhaust. I believe the specs on all VCTs are between 8 and 12 ohms. In my opinion, both are bad just for those results. But, when I attached the alligator clips to positive and negative on the battery and then actuated each, There was so much draw that the radio went off for a split second. And btw the radio is on AM and I just get static. No spikes or weird noises.

All of the grounds were found and inspected. They all had continuity but the one on the bell housing I cleaned. Just because it's the bell housing.

Any thoughts?
So at this time, I need new wires ( which I am returning tomorrow under Warranty)
And 2 VCTs.
Any other areas I should check?

 

[Handy Andy]

The reason I asked about those Solenoids and the Ground was to make sure they were getting power.

The other part of this was for the PCM to "validate" the solenoids as if they were connected - then it's up to the system to determine if the solenoids are faulty - which is a process using that crank signal - its the "Start" process, but the CKP sensor and the CMP sensors then have to show "rotation" in the crank and cams - so to me it seems to be working - but to only work 2 seconds then just quit - tells me the CKP sensor needs help. That is the one on the bell housing below the starter on the flywheel. That is the one that "halts" the starter from cranking. The two upper CMP sensors will let the engine crank for as much as 30 seconds before the PCM will give up on seeing a signal.

Hmmm...I've accidentally disconnected the CKP and reattached it after learning the above lesson for the CKP side, once the clippy thing was back on and secured - it would fire right up.

So you might have to disassemble the valve cover and look at the cams, even the timing belt to make sure it's "synced" and TDC can be obtained (take the plugs out to help with the compression) with the valves shown to be closed and the system thinks it's at TDC - a notch or bump in the cams are the only clue to this - and that is if and when the CAMS are correctly aligned - to the sensor "window" to even know it's there.

I'm kind of at a loss here unless the motors' in front on me, else there is little to no way I can possibly take this further.

Once the electrical has been checked and covered as being "good" the only other areas are bad sensors. However the rub here is you didn't have a whole heck of a lot of miles on them to even have these types of troubles unless there is a mechanical failure we can't see inside the motor - up to and including a bad piston, bent or cracked crank arm or jumped timing caused by the event.


I did an internet search on the codes to help me sort out other options, not much help. But one I did find that has me troubled is a bad PCM - to read that this can happen brings me to the next question - "How far do we go with this?" Because by observation - you seem to have changed the correct solenoids - there are only two, towards the Alternator (Left side) while the sensors are located on the Transmission (Right) side by the Coil pack.

Now the engine cranks - but the sensors tell you something is wrong - so it (something) either broke the timing belt or the belt has jumped time so it can't even know where TDC even is.

 

[Daveb40258]

Hey Andy,
Man, you know the old saying "Great minds think alike" That doesn't apply here since I am nowhere near your thought process nor patience with cars today.

I did an internet search on the codes to help me sort out other options, not much help. But one I did find that has me troubled is a bad PCM - to read that this can happen brings me to the next question - "How far do we go with this?" Because by observation - you seem to have changed the correct solenoids - there are only two, towards the Alternator (Left side) while the sensors are located on the Transmission (Right) side by the Coil pack
Just FYI I have yet to replace those solenoids. They are on order and opted for the (close your eyes I am about to say a bad word) Doreman brand, and the warranty replacement Motorcraft plug wires are coming from RockAuto. Since I had to wait for those wires I figured I would just get the Solenoids there as well.

Re: TDC

I have been rejecting the thought that this could be a timing belt issue. When all of this started (hopefully I can find this video), I posted a video to a friend of mine where there was this horrifying noise coming from the front of the engine like a bad alternator pully or similar, he immediately pointed to a bad timing-belt tensioner and said the belt must have jumped a gear. I thought the noise was more of a loose spark plug, which I did find on the troubled #3 cylinder (the one with the DTC misfire cylinder #3).
As much as I hate to say this it looks like this is becoming more the case. As I think back and look at all the posts here, with my friend on FB Messenger, and the shop that eventually replaced the coil pack, It started to look like this was more of a sensor issue and put the timing belt further in the back of my mind.

Those P0365 and P0369 codes that refuse to go away are making me doubt anything "normal" is happening here.
Wouldn't a timing belt issue be throwing all kinds of codes? I have not gotten a Crank Position Sensor code, the misfires have stopped, and that noise was gone when she finally took her little "vacation".
Don't forget I have all those emissions real-time test results: " test incomplete or dependant test failed" but never did it tell me which freaking dependent tests have been failing.

Am I on an episode of "The Twilight Zone"? Seriously, I can not be the only soul on this planet with this level of FUBAR.

THE ONLY THING THAT MAKES SENSE TO ME IS THE TORN-OFF SIDE MIRROR CAUSED ALL THIS.

So once again I have talked myself out of a direct timing issue. Do you agree? Is this really worth the teardown? I am not afraid of doing any work but the last engine I worked on was a 1973 VW Beatle. Hell, back then I could lift that engine out by myself.
I have never even touched a DOHC before. But if you stay with me through this I would love to learn after all I did replace all the damage caused by a semi-trailer backing into me and never did bodywork in my life. (see pics)

anyway, thanks again for the reply.

 

[Handy Andy]

If the event like I had happen to a Geo Sprint (3-cyl car carb) a Deer collided and bent and spun bolts on the balancer pulley wreaking havoc with the timing and the upper cams and it's own pulley.

So once there was an impact on a spinning shaft, that moment of torque to inertia (kinetic-to-static/inertia-to-kinetic momentum) can jump time and snap off any sort of pins or keys used to hold a pulley synced to shaft.

These pulley belt driven units don't have any sort of keyway nor grip aside from a gear pinched-by-friction onto a shaft thru compression - so it can happen.

 

[Daveb40258]

No sir, That happened 03-29-23. I am sure there would have been an immediate sign of trouble.
No this happened the very next day after the passenger mirror was torn off in April.
My Profile picture is right after I finished the bodywork. And we were actually at a standstill but I guess he stopped on the railroad tracks and just started backing up. A first I was thinking ....Is this guy backing up? Then when I realized he wasn't stopping it was too late to do anything but lay on the horn then cuse the dumbass out for being so ignorant. In the end, it all worked out. I got $6.5k to fix the car. A rental, and$13K just for my trouble. The best accident I ever had I swear Andy just 10 minutes before that happened I was thinking...I wish I had spent my mom's life insurance she left us a little better. It was $13K also and she passed exactly 1 year from that accident.
The Karma gods were with me that day I guess. I wish the Automobile gods would wake up!!

UPDATE: The 2 Solenoids and the new wires will be in Monday. My O2 socket will be in today, and I am going to get a throttle body gasket today as well. Tonight I will know if the O2s are bad and after Monday I guess the decision to take the valve covers off and the timing belt cover will be made then..

 

[Daveb40258]

Well Andy the post you've been waiting for:
Same exact no start scenario. Only this time I have pending codes: P06B8 and P0882 along with confirmed codes... Can you guess? P0365 and P0369.
I did not clear the codes after replacing the battery. I figured why I didn't hook the cables back up for a week. Those codes should be gone
With that said a friend is gonna pick me up at dark and with the darkest clothes I can find I'm going to play on Dixie Highway. I just don't get it .
I wonder if I have it towed to a dealer I can trade it in lol. Anyway. This is interesting. Please see the attached pics. So which is FORD battery or non volatile PCM memory?




UPDATE: I did my homework on all this absolute Bullshit that keeps getting deeper and deeper.
From ALLDATA
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Charts and Descriptions
P06B8 - Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory (NVRAM) Error
Possible Causes: Low Battery
VPWR circuit Intermittent OPEN or SHORT
PWRGND circuit intermittent OPEN
RUN/START RELAY DAMAGED
My Favorite: The EEPROM needs to be flashed to program the VID block for a replacement PCM. I'll put a banana in the tailpipe before I replace the PCM or even consider the timing belt.
I printed 200+ pages worth of pin-out tests and no start diagnosis steps.
When I got the new battery I left the cables off the entire week so .....
Why isn't the PCM/ECU resetting?

I did see a very promising YouTube video where a guy had this same issue, and he noticed that the coil relay was hot so he used the A\C relay and swapped it out with the coil relay and it fired right up. unfortunately, he had a 2012 and I have neither of those relays. :-/

OH...
this entire thread thread started with resistance in the spark plug wires. Here are the numbers from the brand-new cables.
#1 3892 ohms
#2 3587 ohms
#3 2251 ohms
#4 2120 ohms
So at least the wires needed to be replaced.

Here are the numbers from the new VCT solenoids: Intake 8.2 ohms Exhaust 8.3 ohms
the old ones were bad also.
So, back to square 1
Thanks for you reply Andy

 

[Handy Andy]

The damage I see of your incident tells me the A/C - ABS braking system or the passenger side (internal fuse and relay box and even the BCM) can be affected by this.

You may not have issues with the PCM, but with the flex/bending of the passenger side and how it can affect the Body control Module - the inside fuse box (behind the Glove box) may hold clues on this.