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Washer Jets and rear wiper fault

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City
Erith
State
Non-US
Country
United Kingdom
What I Drive
2014 Fiesta ztech s black edition
#1
Hi all, new to this forum , recently on my car (2014 ztech s black edition) the rear wiper and both front and rear washer jets have stopped working , no power to the pump but I tried changing it and no luck.

The day before I did jack the car up on stands but both side on the jacking points so I can’t see how that’s related , just got in the next day and they had both stopped.

I have checked all relevant fuses including the body control module but nothing

Another thing to add is the interior lights dim when trying the rear wiper but only if the engine is off. If anybody has had something similar happen in the past some help would be massively appreciated.
 

Handy Andy

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Grand Rapids
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2018 Ford Fiesta SE HB
#2
There may have been a bump or broken or sagging front cowl (your front nose clip that houses the grille and the bonnet mates to). so that when you jacked up the car, the washer fluid box, that houses not just the fluid, but that motor is just under it at the base of that tank. Might have disconnected the wiring or kinked the hoses (you have two one from the front nozzles and one for the back) The plumbing hoses and all the wiring all snake down to that tank using the front bumper - crash absorber and the radiator shroud and it's support plastic as a means to clip tie the harness down to it.

In the USA the tank is located on the Drivers side - but if you drive opposite of the USA (We drive on the Right side in the direction of travel - while some countries they drive on the left side of the road as they travel) it would still be the same side, but opposite of the Drivers seat.

The Fuse box is also located in that same side just above the wheel.

So my question would be - if you needed to jack up the car, was it due to a needed inspection? Or did some noise cause you to be concerned?

It's kind of hard to just narrow down to a bad spot in the wiring - perhaps near the radiator and it's shroud for that to be a needed point to look for damage - but it's my only fair guess as to where to even start. Since the Fuesbox is near to the battery and the fender and it's plastic support; the fusebox is not truly bolted to the fender - jarring may simply have shifted fuses out of alignment in their sockets and only need to be pressed back in place to complete their connection.

Referring to, the weight of the vehicle on a floor jack or jackstands - since the nose of the car is mostly plastic and held together by plastic ties and rivets to the radiator and it's shroud and the front crash bar holds and bears that weight - the vehicle can show it's age by the failing integrity of the front shroud/cowl and radiator with gravity pulling it down and off the car when it's in a freestanding support.

It can crush or shift weight and position of the suspended parts and then the hoses or wiring itself can be affected by the effort.

Replacing the pump - did you have a chance to inspect the connectors? At the age of your vehicle I can only hope the winters have been kind so the connector didn't develop any kind of memory of the previous tabs of the previous motor and therefore can not mate well without some rework or help from you to refit the connectors own electrical socket connectors to the tabs on the motor and their wires and complete their connection.
 
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Messages
2
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City
Erith
State
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Country
United Kingdom
What I Drive
2014 Fiesta ztech s black edition
Thread Starter #3
There may have been a bump or broken or sagging front cowl (your front nose clip that houses the grille and the bonnet mates to). so that when you jacked up the car, the washer fluid box, that houses not just the fluid, but that motor is just under it at the base of that tank. Might have disconnected the wiring or kinked the hoses (you have two one from the front nozzles and one for the back) The plumbing hoses and all the wiring all snake down to that tank using the front bumper - crash absorber and the radiator shroud and it's support plastic as a means to clip tie the harness down to it.

In the USA the tank is located on the Drivers side - but if you drive opposite of the USA (We drive on the Right side in the direction of travel - while some countries they drive on the left side of the road as they travel) it would still be the same side, but opposite of the Drivers seat.

The Fuse box is also located in that same side just above the wheel.

So my question would be - if you needed to jack up the car, was it due to a needed inspection? Or did some noise cause you to be concerned?

It's kind of hard to just narrow down to a bad spot in the wiring - perhaps near the radiator and it's shroud for that to be a needed point to look for damage - but it's my only fair guess as to where to even start. Since the Fuesbox is near to the battery and the fender and it's plastic support; the fusebox is not truly bolted to the fender - jarring may simply have shifted fuses out of alignment in their sockets and only need to be pressed back in place to complete their connection.

Referring to, the weight of the vehicle on a floor jack or jackstands - since the nose of the car is mostly plastic and held together by plastic ties and rivets to the radiator and it's shroud and the front crash bar holds and bears that weight - the vehicle can show it's age by the failing integrity of the front shroud/cowl and radiator with gravity pulling it down and off the car when it's in a freestanding support.

It can crush or shift weight and position of the suspended parts and then the hoses or wiring itself can be affected by the effort.

Replacing the pump - did you have a chance to inspect the connectors? At the age of your vehicle I can only hope the winters have been kind so the connector didn't develop any kind of memory of the previous tabs of the previous motor and therefore can not mate well without some rework or help from you to refit the connectors own electrical socket connectors to the tabs on the motor and their wires and complete their connection.
There may have been a bump or broken or sagging front cowl (your front nose clip that houses the grille and the bonnet mates to). so that when you jacked up the car, the washer fluid box, that houses not just the fluid, but that motor is just under it at the base of that tank. Might have disconnected the wiring or kinked the hoses (you have two one from the front nozzles and one for the back) The plumbing hoses and all the wiring all snake down to that tank using the front bumper - crash absorber and the radiator shroud and it's support plastic as a means to clip tie the harness down to it.

In the USA the tank is located on the Drivers side - but if you drive opposite of the USA (We drive on the Right side in the direction of travel - while some countries they drive on the left side of the road as they travel) it would still be the same side, but opposite of the Drivers seat.

The Fuse box is also located in that same side just above the wheel.

So my question would be - if you needed to jack up the car, was it due to a needed inspection? Or did some noise cause you to be concerned?

It's kind of hard to just narrow down to a bad spot in the wiring - perhaps near the radiator and it's shroud for that to be a needed point to look for damage - but it's my only fair guess as to where to even start. Since the Fuesbox is near to the battery and the fender and it's plastic support; the fusebox is not truly bolted to the fender - jarring may simply have shifted fuses out of alignment in their sockets and only need to be pressed back in place to complete their connection.

Referring to, the weight of the vehicle on a floor jack or jackstands - since the nose of the car is mostly plastic and held together by plastic ties and rivets to the radiator and it's shroud and the front crash bar holds and bears that weight - the vehicle can show it's age by the failing integrity of the front shroud/cowl and radiator with gravity pulling it down and off the car when it's in a freestanding support.

It can crush or shift weight and position of the suspended parts and then the hoses or wiring itself can be affected by the effort.

Replacing the pump - did you have a chance to inspect the connectors? At the age of your vehicle I can only hope the winters have been kind so the connector didn't develop any kind of memory of the previous tabs of the previous motor and therefore can not mate well without some rework or help from you to refit the connectors own electrical socket connectors to the tabs on the motor and their wires and complete their connection.
Hi yes I have changed the pump for a brand new ok but still nothing , just seems to have stopped getting power to it all of a sudden
 

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