The dreaded wrench warning and dropping out of cruise control

[Fiestaparty]

Hello,

I just purchased a used 2011 Fiesta SE hatchback 5 sp with 135000km (88000miles). The previous owner warned me that she had received the wrench icon and service now message. She said that it was somehow related to the gas pedal or something. I decided to take a chance on this car as any other car I'd looked at in my budget range had bigger issues, and this sounded minor to me.

Yesterday, I took my maiden voyage after purchasing my used Fiesta. I was on the freeway using cruise control and travelling at 100km/hour (62 MPH). Everything was fine until a somewhat steep grade of the road down toward the bridge on my journey. The wrench popped up as soon as coasting with "service engine now" message. And I'm pretty sure that the cruise control disengaged on its own, although I may have tapped the brake, but I don't think so. I couldn't use the cruise control for the remainder of my trip.

I parked at school for 6 hours and when I started it up again, the message was gone and hasn't returned.

My question is: what are all the possible causes of the wrench icon coming up and cruise control shutting off? Where should I start? I prefer to do my own work on my vehicles but will go to a mechanic if it's too technical.

Thanks for any help here folks!

Jason

 

[tabijan]

Do you have an OBD scanner? Do auto parts stores in Canada read codes as a complimentary service?

I would expect cruise control to be unavailable when there’s an engine fault.

Sixto
2014 SE 1.6 hatchback 136K miles

 

[Fiestaparty]

Thanks. I’m going to try that.
Is the wrench icon the same as a check engine code?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Yes, the wrench can illuminate for a check engine code. Some cars will defeat the cruise function if the CEL illuminates. I dont know if the Fiesta does, but some cars are affected. What you have is a code that is not a major condition (such as emissions or fueling) They will still record a code in memory and can be "pulled" with the right scan equipment.

 

[Handy Andy]

Keep the scanner plugged in and when the wrench light appears - try to capture that code by making the scanner read for codes during this - carefully - don't lose concentration on the road.

When you said the cruise control stopped working - usually means there may be a switch or two on the brake pedal that may need to be investigated and properly set - it can force a code and demand service if the switch is not working correctly and when under load and the system thinks it needs more power - the demand is asked for but it places itself in check due to that bad pedal switch. IT turns off the "auto" of the cruise control and you have the pleasure of driving it home the rest of the way.

Why does it clear? It may be a faulty switch or it's not set to work properly and needs a tweak to make the plunger fully engage both on and off so the cruise control can work right - so it just may need a tweak or a new replacement switch.

 

[Fiestaparty]

Thanks for the tips! I can keep the scanner plugged in and pull off the road when the wrench visits me again. So far it only shows a wrench when the engine is cold. After school today it was hot outside but the car was parked for 8 hours in a covered parking garage, so it’s definitely a cold engine and not cold ambient temperature scenario (if the temperature is even related that is).

I plugged in an OBD2 scanner today and there were no DTC’s recorded, so it’s like Handy Andy says, I’m going to have to catch them when they come up. It has happened 3 more times so I think I can count on another.

 

[Handy Andy]

To help, you may need to remove or just un-clip that lower kick-panel under the steering wheel - it has an air-bag "bomb" in it so be careful with it and it's connector.

This helps you get access to those switches.

But also the paddles (the little flat tabs that the plunger uses) just may need to be bent to adjust the throw of that plunger so both engage at the same time to help the car know it's coming to a stop or a change in status.

The Brake pedal controls both the Master cylinder and the bracket the pedal "pivots" on - on that pivot are two flanges that moves those paddles - the plungers are fixed to one spot at where the kick-panel is at. So you'll see the switches mounted there - there are two - one with a blue body, the other with a black body - and both use a twist 1/4 turn and pull out to remove them from their holsters.

There was a lengthy discussion about brakes - and although we can't see your car in front of us, I'd like to think this "SERVICE ENGINE NOW" scenario is related to the way the switches I talk about, work when you press the brake.

Read this thread...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/manual-transmission-clutch-problem.7865/post-18137
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/...3-fiesta-sticks-while-driving.8383/post-22877
And this one may help...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/need-help-to-diagnose-car-not-starting.8830/post-23929

 

[Mercurios2011]

throttle body is going bad and or pedal sensor , been thru this twice with my car , second time the pedal sensor burn out and locked my throttle half way
it starts as intermittent problem then eventually fails altogether ,also very important , make sure grounds are nice ,clean and tight ,same goes for battery
good luck