The only way to know that is to check those pins on the lighting housing for the DRLS on that side. Have to make sure it is either getting power - or if needed, a LIN system can tell by logic signal - to make the DRLS turn on or off.
When the DRLS works there are two types - Analog (Linear) and Digital (Logic On/Off) - you have to determine the type of light you have for your car.
- There are other Forums, like the Fiestast forum, that might give you some insight into LED lighting, but if your car came with the OEM (Read : Ford) LED lighting, then you have a system that is Fixed beam using manual adjuster gimbals in a housing that is for the Fiestas. This does not mean you have a motorized unit - so that is why the question of the OEM versus aftermarket is in play here. The Aftermarket has several variations that fit the cutout of the Fiesta but are wired with motors to level the system and even power those servos for automatic aiming.
- The DRLS can be a simple "panel" embedded on the housing or even show as a light ring - either way the DRLS may have wired in a pin - so if it's not working you'll need to find out why.
- Other types of DRLS use a dim to Bright feature what when only used singular- they are bright - when the AUTOLAMP or Auto function for Day/Night use is selected, they go from Bright to Dim when the lights come on by the Auto-sensor telling it to do so. This is all handled by the BCM - so if the original headlamp failed it may have caused the wring to it to fail as well, even up to the BCM getting one of it's outputs damaged by the failure.
IF you didn't buy OEM and the OEM one quit and you're using an aftermarket - the DRLS may be disabled because the type of system it uses requires FORSCAN or Ford to force it to be recognized. The lamp has to be programmed to fit that system FORD uses.
So if the OEM LED system had DRLS - means it's digital and that Lamp has to be able to communicate to the system so it may be missing a wire (LIN) by pin (not on the connector of the car-side - it's missing the one on the lamp side) or the LIN it's being told "how to work" by, is not compatible. No LIN? Then the DRLS remains off - this is key here. For if the LIN system can't tell it to turn on or off - it will refuse to work. Why? Ever see someone use Turn signals with DRLS? Unless you take away that brighter headlamp on that side for the turn - the lights tend to mesh together and it's harder to see. To fix that, requires the system to use a means to turn off that headlamp - let the tun signal work then restore operation. Older systems used relays - so the vehicle is set up so that when the turn signal is on, a delay relay works, it turns off the headlamp to allow the turn signal bulb to be seen thru the increased contrast in brightness - helps during the day and during times of low-visibility (Fog rain snow e&c...) then one that turn lever resets to off, it restores operation thru that delay - to return to the DRLS system.
- In the Forum for the Fiestast - they talk and describe some workarounds for the DRLS system using a set of relays to provide the power to operate them
The LIN system in FORD does something similar to that - turns off that lamps' DRLS - lets the turn signal work - then restores the DRLS - using commands the LIN system sends. So if the "handshake" and recognition doesn't work - the LIN can't tell it anything - so the DRLS stays off.
So in older days the Linear system had some options that GM, Ford and Chrysler and all the rest - used - being the the older lamps were Filament - they can be driven by a Diode bridge system - sending power into diodes and used their inherent voltage drop they perform when power is passed thru them - from it (module) as a means to lower the voltage passing thru the element and dimmed them down that way - or use a Pulse mode that makes the filament see an AC pulse wave of 100Hz or so to dim the lamp because it's not seeing straight DC - only pulsed DC - dimming that lamp that way.
Newer systems and the way LED works, requires a high-frequency pulse mode that makes the light dimmer by the method above of the pulse DC into it - the Phosphor of the LED and it's latent effects makes the LED appear dimmer without the flicker you would otherwise see (like a fast strobe or stop motion xenon flash) as a method, or if programmable, use Logical commands. So to get it to work logically the LIN system sends commands to the headlamp for operations. So the DRLS is a lamp in the housing that is not a bright - but is LED and operated by that computer - that LIN can talk to. But if it don't, or can't the DRLS remains off. So the wiring has to support either LIN or the wiring itself was damaged when the OEM DRLS failed taking out the wire (or blowing the fuses) that gives you the DRLS.
