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Key Not Detected

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#1
We Bought our son a 2014 Zetec Ford Fiesta 1.0L and had it delivered to our home address as I wasn't in my son took delivery all seemed good couple of weeks later the car wont start just keeps saying No Key Detected tried using the other key and again getting the same message.I have replaced the batteries on both fobs and still same error Is my next move to call a auto locksmith out as I cannot move the car any help would be most appreciated
 

econoboxrocks

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#2
Try resetting it first. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes or longer, if you can.
How is your battery? If the battery is weak, it can cause issues. It will start the car, but not charge all the systems like it should.
 
OP
J
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Thread Starter #3
Try resetting it first. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes or longer, if you can.
How is your battery? If the battery is weak, it can cause issues. It will start the car, but not charge all the systems like it should.
Ive Gone one better and Replaced the Battery still the same I can get MyKey feature working now and its showing no keys also I had a Topdon OBD11 reader in it and there is a missing Communication with Vehicle Immobilizer error U0167-00-2E so dont know what steps to take next other than get it towed to a dealer
 
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#4
You have a faulty Immobilizer control module, related component or CANBUS network/harness issue. Are there any other issues with the car such as MIL lights or options not responding? You might not be able to tell at this point as you cant get the car running. This will require a trip to the dealer or adequately trained mechanic.

Without a wiring schematic, a handful of specific tools and deep knowledge of CANBUS, this is a difficult repair for most.
 

Handy Andy

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#5
Now, while you may still be here, you may have a blown fuse which causes the CANBUS problems,

Does your Horn work?

Why do I ask this? It's one of the many things the Immobilizer tells the BCM to do, in it's communication with it. Honk the Horn and make the Lights flash as well as disable the ignition. The Horn works when that Fuse to power the base-BCM is still working.
  • base-BCM - referring to the only Battery supply feeder to power the BCM is on all the time live from the battery and is why the Horn works even when the car is parked but not completely powered down - or repowered when the doors are opened - but the BCM and RFID system are still talking to each other and are always present - meaning it's a passive system - stepping in only when it senses or doesn't see a proceedure being followed - it tries to prevent drive-aways and theft.

The BCM uses the 20amp fuse in the main fuse block to power itself. So to make the car less able to be restarted - it may cause that fuse or it's linkage (wiring) to open due to the power draw - and if not that - it may also lockout all key-ID's because the owners or previous dealership tried to override the MY-Key system and caused the very key you have to be locked out and now you'll need to re-establish the communications with all those systems..

So now you have MY Key working, it appears it is not using the BCM - where much of this APIM information is stored. So does that mean the Fuses to power the BCM have blown open? Don't know - I don't have your car in front of me to help you with this.

But How? By the the operation of the internal alarms and procedures it does to lockout the system - it may be due to the very key you have in your hand. So if the Title has cleared your Secretary of State or DMV and you have no recourse to ask more questions from a previous owner of this vehicle - the only way you may be able to restore this is to replace/reprogram the BCM and do a key reprogramming procedure. Where this requires FORD to use the hierarchy of their system to teach the PCM and all the other systems to use the new Key ID's - and yes you'll have to pay for AT LEAST two new keys and as better judgement - a Third one as a spare to recover in case of another attempt to trying to fool the system with a false key-ID that may have caused your original mess you're in now.

In this process they may have found where the RFID and immobiliser is located, and in trying to remove it and use a simple key to enter and try to fool the system into starting - caused this to remember that key ID (Last key used) and cause this condition.
For if it can't communicate to the RFID module - it will lockout your car from starting. How do I know? Thru the experiences where there have been several attempts from others trying to steal fleet cars and Rentals (either back to the dealer or otherwise Grey means) by using different methods up to and including a regular key without any chip to fool the system into starting and drive off with it.
  • Posters Note: I'm not trying to be harsh nor appear as snide or rude, but you're reading a posters frustration at the many different types of ways people have tried to "Get away with it" and use vehicles without consent and or attempt to retrieve a vehicle but not as a repossession but as a cruel trick. It's when you get it back and the damages and loss along with the stricter efforts imposed on all parties involved - makes it such a mess.
  • There are ways you can "recover" the system. The Horn Honk Pull-the-fuse is one of the usual attempts to quietly remove the vehicle and attempt to start it and drive off. This method is one that can also cause the most damage in downtime for once the fuse is removed and they use a key with no ID or not recognizable - the system is immediately faulted and keys get locked out. You may be able to recover using the two supervisor keys the OEM dealership once gave the owners. These two keys are "Burned" into the ROM of the BCM so the system can see these keys as default. These two keys need to be present once the system recovers MY Key and can recognize them. Having both present makes the recovery far faster than any other effort even a dealership could do.
 
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