2016 Titanium HB 1.6L 111k miles HELP

[Handy Andy]

Well, if you didn't live so far away...I'd love to stop by and review what you're up against and either throw a good-bye party and throw dynamite at it to put it out of it's misery - or - "Gee - where does this wire go?" - moment and hook it up, start it, and the thing will run like it did before that wire (or whatever) caused this messy backup...

So to review, the oil change problem seems to be fixed, the Intake seems to be cleaned up. Spark plugs were goofy, but you're getting a fresh set - good idea - the jumping the battery moment though - has me wondering if the wiring from that red terminal is messed up or you may have a fuse blown - either in the Alternator/Starter post (about 250A) or the main post of 450A that goes to both that starter alternator post and the breakout buss that the EPAS, MAIN and 2 AUX work off of.

The part I'm talking about is under the Red Cap...

The Photo below is from my archives in the Gallery section. I've touched up the photo to add in the graphics to help you locate what I'm talking about...


You say you can't start the car, but if you get Dash lights - this terminal may have a blown fuse - just see if you can find 12V on that post shown above. If not, then presume you have a blown circuit in that battery terminal - and you just need to check for a blown fuse. Then just get to a Ford dealer or any auto parts store and see if you can locate a fuse to repair that thing.

To inspect that fuse - there is a plastic cover - just gently pry it off using a small blade screwdriver - it will reveal a fuse bolted to that section using two small hex-head screws - just unbolt it and remove it so inspect - if it is blown - replace it. But remember to clean off any corrosion - and install the new one and replace that plastic cover.

 

[Daveb40258]

Well, if you didn't live so far away...I'd love to stop by and review what you're up against and either throw a good-bye party and throw dynamite at it to put it out of it's misery - or - "Gee - where does this wire go?" - moment and hook it up, start it, and the thing will run like it did before that wire (or whatever) caused this messy backup...

So to review, the oil change problem seems to be fixed, the Intake seems to be cleaned up. Spark plugs were goofy, but you're getting a fresh set - good idea - the jumping the battery moment though - has me wondering if the wiring from that red terminal is messed up or you may have a fuse blown - either in the Alternator/Starter post (about 250A) or the main post of 450A that goes to both that starter alternator post and the breakout buss that the EPAS, MAIN and 2 AUX work off of.

The part I'm talking about is under the Red Cap...

The Photo below is from my archives in the Gallery section. I've touched up the photo to add in the graphics to help you locate what I'm talking about...
View attachment 9224

You say you can't start the car, but if you get Dash lights - this terminal may have a blown fuse - just see if you can find 12V on that post shown above. If not, then presume you have a blown circuit in that battery terminal - and you just need to check for a blown fuse. Then just get to a Ford dealer or any auto parts store and see if you can locate a fuse to repair that thing.

To inspect that fuse - there is a plastic cover - just gently pry it off using a small blade screwdriver - it will reveal a fuse bolted to that section using two small hex-head screws - just unbolt it and remove it so inspect - if it is blown - replace it. But remember to clean off any corrosion - and install the new one and replace that plastic cover.

Ok a lil confused. I think you may have my thread confused with the "oil change" guy. My problem started with the passenger side mirror torn off and the battery drained that night and needed to jump start it the next morning.
The poor running ECT...started either that day or next.
Now, 3000 miles before the mirror incident I changed the oil but put 5w30 in it and used a cheap Fram oil filter.
The battery connections are fine and after cleaning the painted ground connection, I have continuity throughout.
I should have been more specific regarding the no start. She really really really tries to start. Sometimes it sounds like "yes she's gonna start" only for the battery to not have enough juice to keep going.
So, she has fuel, spark, and compression.
I value your advice and like I said I'm pretty good with auto repairs. It's the troubleshooting these newer cars that frustrates me. Especially when OBD says "unable to complete test related test either failed or was incomplete" paraphrasing. Would be nice to know which component it's talking about.
Just so I understand your previous reply about the J engine. Are you saying that when one of those sensors fail it could just default to CMP sensor (as an example since they are "the same" )?
Thanks for the fast reply
I really gotta get my baby going now,(and u may laugh), today the check engine light just tripped on the BMW 🤔🥺. I already know it needs a tune up I just can't wait to pay the BMW owner price for parts 😕.
Edit: regarding the old plugs. I cleaned them, re gapped them to . 030 and those are the ones in it right now. I'm putting my money on the battery and plugs.
As far as living too far... You do realize the Kentucky Derby is Saturday. Just saying.

 

[Daveb40258]

Hey Andy,
You'll never guess what I found in my phone today?
I have track recordings and notices (fault codes)
From my Torque Pro app that I didn't even know existed. They go all the way back to 2021. I guess when you activate "track record" it saves the info in a .csv XL file. I just have to pick out the obvious changes and I hope we can pin point the culprit or culprits.
🤞👍

 

[Handy Andy]

Oh ok! When you said there was no start, I do see where the Starter and Alternator terminal can blow its fuse - usually due to something in the wiring along the loom, that debris got thrown at, got struck by or cut into the wire leading to a branch for both.

There have been times where the "car dies" and someone can't find out why until they investigate the terminal box that looks like the one shown above. If the battery seems ok, and the Alternator produces power, then why the "low battery"? Much of this is due to poor connections - the biggest problems have been with corrosion - so it's good to know you're making an effort to fix much of the glitch problems these cars have.

They tend to run fine until the electrical - either by corrosion or by insulation -start to breakdown and poor contact will lead to bigger problems later on.

Since were on "J" engines - the issue really goes back to how the system interprets errors and tries to localize them - as you said earlier - the failed or "incomplete" is usually a result of intermittent and erroneous readings from too much noise on the lines the systems needs to see to find the results of it's diagnostics. IF loose connections or poor corroded wiring are in the way - the system sees it like a type of "noise" it can't finish the job due to not knowing what is considered a "fair value result".
(Not from the programming side, just the test can't complete is the sensor is masked in noise trying to deliver a result)

There vehicles are Drive By Wire so you move a pedal, but the sensor in it, tells the system to move the plate of the throttle - so the two have to talk and see clean results - potholes, poor roads and salt with a lot of rain in-between add to this problem.

IF you understand the Drive by wire process, the issue of having the system try to see and review problems is a little harder as time goes by and the vehicle ages

 

[Daveb40258]

Oh ok! When you said there was no start, I do see where the Starter and Alternator terminal can blow its fuse - usually due to something in the wiring along the loom, that debris got thrown at, got struck by or cut into the wire leading to a branch for both.

There have been times where the "car dies" and someone can't find out why until they investigate the terminal box that looks like the one shown above. If the battery seems ok, and the Alternator produces power, then why the "low battery"? Much of this is due to poor connections - the biggest problems have been with corrosion - so it's good to know you're making an effort to fix much of the glitch problems these cars have.

They tend to run fine until the electrical - either by corrosion or by insulation -start to breakdown and poor contact will lead to bigger problems later on.

Since were on "J" engines - the issue really goes back to how the system interprets errors and tries to localize them - as you said earlier - the failed or "incomplete" is usually a result of intermittent and erroneous readings from too much noise on the lines the systems needs to see to find the results of it's diagnostics. IF loose connections or poor corroded wiring are in the way - the system sees it like a type of "noise" it can't finish the job due to not knowing what is considered a "fair value result".
(Not from the programming side, just the test can't complete is the sensor is masked in noise trying to deliver a result)

There vehicles are Drive By Wire so you move a pedal, but the sensor in it, tells the system to move the plate of the throttle - so the two have to talk and see clean results - potholes, poor roads and salt with a lot of rain in-between add to this problem.

IF you understand the Drive by wire process, the issue of having the system try to see and review problems is a little harder as time goes by and the vehicle ages

Makes sense. So I downloaded csv viewer from the Microsoft store as it puts everything in a nice little readable format. Best of all it was free.
So I don't know if I can post csv files or not. Maybe you can send me a private message with your email and I'll share them in Google drive or Dropbox. Which ever.
Ok this is a fiesta forum but I thought you'd like to know I put some 93 fuel and some injector cleaner in the BMW and not only did the light go out but she runs like new. Most inexpensive repair ever lol.

 

[Daveb40258]

I just put in my Autolite APP9353 Double Platinum plugs. An OEM Battery is about $260.00 I'll have to budget it in next week.
I gapped these plugs at .029 but while installing them I noticed that while I leaned over the engine every once in a while the warning bell would go off inside 3 bells. I thought this was strange as that bell usually only dings when you open the door. I tried to do it another couple of times now that I was aware but, the bell wouldn't go off. I thought I was hitting a loose wire but I do not know.
I left my OBDII in the socket also which drains the battery.
Before I replace the entire bank 1, I'll re-test every sensor plug and make sure there are no issues.

 

[Daveb40258]

here are the csv files if anyone notices anything out of the ordinary let me know. At the top there are numbers. I put the info needle SOMEWHERE NEAR THE CENTER OF THE GRAPHS the figures to the left are the readings.

 

[Daveb40258]

Oh ok! When you said there was no start, I do see where the Starter and Alternator terminal can blow its fuse - usually due to something in the wiring along the loom, that debris got thrown at, got struck by or cut into the wire leading to a branch for both.

There have been times where the "car dies" and someone can't find out why until they investigate the terminal box that looks like the one shown above. If the battery seems ok, and the Alternator produces power, then why the "low battery"? Much of this is due to poor connections - the biggest problems have been with corrosion - so it's good to know you're making an effort to fix much of the glitch problems these cars have.

They tend to run fine until the electrical - either by corrosion or by insulation -start to breakdown and poor contact will lead to bigger problems later on.

Since were on "J" engines - the issue really goes back to how the system interprets errors and tries to localize them - as you said earlier - the failed or "incomplete" is usually a result of intermittent and erroneous readings from too much noise on the lines the systems needs to see to find the results of it's diagnostics. IF loose connections or poor corroded wiring are in the way - the system sees it like a type of "noise" it can't finish the job due to not knowing what is considered a "fair value result".
(Not from the programming side, just the test can't complete is the sensor is masked in noise trying to deliver a result)

There vehicles are Drive By Wire so you move a pedal, but the sensor in it, tells the system to move the plate of the throttle - so the two have to talk and see clean results - potholes, poor roads and salt with a lot of rain in-between add to this problem.

IF you understand the Drive by wire process, the issue of having the system try to see and review problems is a little harder as time goes by and the vehicle ages

Well my car has been sitting 5 months almost. I think I have enough confidence built up to tackle the timing belt. Do you have any pointers or tips before I get started?

 

[Handy Andy]

When you start doing this, remember that the crankshaft pulley bolt can't be loosened - but you can - using a clockwise direction, (the front is the Passenger side and front) make sure the cams have seated or at least can be set closed (as possible since the solenoids won't be engaged when you turn this by hand) and their oil still left up there, is drained out and back into the oil pan, just don't try backspin the pulley as you remove the belt to re-seat those cams, then reapply the belt after the Crank and cam position have been both set to TDC.

I know of guys that just unclip the wires and hoses unbolt/remove the plugs, valve cover the front cover and just get access to the belt to change it - the less messing with the bottom half of the motor the better off it gets as with putting it back together.

Adding in: Because it may be needed to ensure the integrity of the motor.

Got a feeler gauge? Flat Blade type - long reach might help.

Why? Check for and make sure you have "valve lash" so that as you find TDC - the valves are closed completely and the feeler gauge can help determine this. The Feeler gauge blades can be used to help find TDC and also to check the followers so they are also released and not binding - there will be some wear but as you use the feeler gauge, try to find the thickest blade that can easily go thru all of them - then try to go one size up and see which valves are affected - intake or exhaust, which cylinder too. Why? you're doing a "poor mans" version of checking for warp - if the cams are warped by several sizes using the feeler gauge, the cylinder head may need work - if the damage is severe - the caps for the bearings can crack. This is why the cams need to be seated (no advance) and the valves in the valve train are also fully retracted. On one turn check all cylinders and then one more turn then check all again to see if there is any "lobbing" in the cam. This may seem tedious but you need to make sure the cams are not warped which then means the cylinder head can suffer this same fate.

IF the Cams are not set to TDC and you put the belt back on - the advance on one of those cams will affect the motor - as possibly damaging the valves because they were left open when the piston went to TDC and they got smacked.

You can see this also on the plugs - wear or damage as well as the coatings left on the plug can provide clues. The dirtier the plug, the more likely it was the cylinder that was involved in something amiss.

This thread might help:
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/loud-rattle-grinding-noise.9999/post-28589

Check back here often and keep us updated...we will try to help you get thru this as we can!