2016 Ford Fiesta SE hood latch assembly (anti theft vs hood ajar sensor)

[MIKEO]

I purchased a hood latch assembly from Quick Parts for my 16 Ford Fiesta SE. They said the part they sent was correct based upon my VIN. The old part (pic attached) has a connector on the left side to the inside, facing the engine. The new part does not have a connector. Installed the new part. But because I didn’t connect the connecting wire to the warning system, the hood open warning light is lit on the panel. The company had 2 parts: non anti theft and anti theft (that had the connector). Does that mean I have an anti theft system or a hood ajar sensor. Are they the same thing! The part numbers are different. Confused when they show anti theft vs non anti theft in the 2 parts description

 

[Handy Andy]

The system you have requires a sensor - so that as you drive, meaning you're in the vehicle - your key is in the ignition and the engine is running.

You have a 2016 - so not sure if it has "PATS" or a simple "Door Ajar" sensor - which is an "upgrade" to notify you - that when you drive your car may have a dangerous condition.

The question becomes do you have PATS or non-PATS.

Why?

Ford started using PATS to help reduce theft and uses the sensors the vehicle can be equipped with, to make it installable.

Which, to accomplish that - means that your key has "passed" the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) and will now function as a monitor and alert for the condition you have a potentially dangerous problem on your hands. The hood can be pried up by wind whack and the hood latch could fail and the hood can flip up and damage your car or worse. It's why the latch has a catch to allow you to pop the hood - and then finish the job outside - in a non-moving condition - unless you live in certain high-crime areas where they will find ways to open your hood, as you drive - so the purpose is to keep moving so the target is harder to hit.

When you don't - if and when the event of the hood latch can be pried and lifted - making it appear that someone is trying to get at your car...without you or your key in proximity to it to allow you to do this. The PATS system "arms" the vehicle and sounds the horn in moments like this - where a procedure was not followed. Example - you don't use a pry bar to open the hood (or if you do - then you'd have other issues requiring this method be used) instead you - open Drivers side Car door, pull hood latch and by that "logic steps of action" - the PATS passes the test because the Doors were unlocked, opened one and you pulled the hood latch - so a series of events (more than one type of approach) took place to make PATS "passive" versus aggressive in its behavior - you didn't trigger the alarm.

So, the issue is the PATS system - if the VIN is ok, they don't have to find you a switch, you can short the wires together. but I'm curious about the Hood latch numbers - because the switch is plainly seen in the photo - with the connector - don't know why they'd hassle you on this...

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Does the new hood latch have a way to transfer that "cherry switch" to the new one?

 

[MIKEO]

No. Here’s the part I installed, which doesn’t have the connector for the sensor cable to the car

 

[MIKEO]

BTW: I had auto start added when I purchased the car so I could start the car from indoors if raining or cold/snowing in Chicago. Not sure if that’s relevant. And thanks for your prompt information and follow up

 

[MIKEO]

The part recommended by Quick Parts if the car has anti theft. Which looks like you need as long as there’s a cherry switch

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, when you have such a beast - since they wanted the "VIN" versus that ACTUAL part - is why the level of service they're providing you is in question...

IF the original part uses a connector - I have no idea as to why they felt that it was more important to get you the Non-connector part - when it should be VERY CLEAR to them that the customer uses DOOR AJAR function - as an actual FEATURE of the car - so when they ask you "Do you have PATS" whether you do or don't - they need to understand that you do have a DOOR AJAR function and it also has HOOD LATCH AJAR - which then overrides any other reason and even the PATS as to why you need the one with the SWITCH - you need the OEM latch - with the switch - not their thoughts and feelings about - "Well, we've got this part that nobody else wanted" attitude and they shove it down your throat the moments you have questions and you need one with a switch - over it.

Since I am a "tinker-er" - I can also show with pretty much assurance, that the OEM latch would have surrendered the old switch allowing you to put it on the new one - but that too has older equipment and the reason you got "HOOD AJAR" alert is because the built in switch failed so you needed new and you have to pay the stiffer (higher) price for that part - but I wanted to point out that FORD's own apples - like any other Car Maker - do not fall far from their tree.

They use the same stamp plate for the Backing and mount - but use a plastic "clippy" thing to mount the switch. The Cutouts are present when they stamp it - doesn't affect performance of the hood latch - just gives the stamped plate part a longer life span in stamping so they can add in a switch without too much hassle.

They reap the benefit of longer useful-ness of the part across their brand in having reduced switchover times and less retooling needed.

In case anyone needs to know....
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[MIKEO]

Thanks Handy Andy. This information helped a lot. I can understand why people use repair shops.
The professionals have the experience to look at the old part and can see what the car needs. Instead of following the specs on some site (anti theft vs no anti theft) only, they have the experience to know there’s more to it than just that.
To be fair to Quick Parts, the customer enters the part number and secondly the VIN #. The site states that the VIN will be used to verify the customer ordered the correct part number for his/her manufactured car.
I checked the original car sticker, that was on the car when I purchased it, and the anti theft was not an added option.
I did see part “-A” didn’t have the sensor but part “-B” did. My gut told me to order “B” based after viewing the old part but I blindly followed the specs on the site (non-anti theft). You can’t call Quick Parts to ask questions. The customer service recording says to use the website.
All of this would have been ok. But Quick Parts’ customer service responded to my email (which requested a replacement part) by stating that’s what I ordered, the VIN # was verified to the manufacturer and did I add anti theft later. I then answered Quick Parts: No I didn’t add anti theft and added a picture of the old part. No response from Quick Parts.
My suggestion to any reader would be order through Amazon. Any vendor/customer issues are resolved by Amazon if necessary. These stand alone vendors have no reason to have good customer service...or keep the customer happy. I won’t use Quick Parts again.

 

[Handy Andy]

Don't worry, your case is not unique.

Although most places will sell you "The part" most offer to enter your VIN as optional - but isn't the requirement unless warranty is implied for the part sold might have a "Core" or "Manufacture" warranty - then they need their ducks in a row to help keep their costs down.

It's when you are ordering for someone and the site requests a VIN, and you are only the middleman trying to get the friend what they need - does this get to be a big - royal - pain - in - the ____ (ahemn) because they won't sell you what you want, because it (site) needs to verify - so in many cases - the customer service is nothing more than a Directory Tree that self-defeats the purpose of "Tell me again why I should buy for your site" - If they only listened to the customers...

 

[scotman]

Incorrect parts should be returned. It may be a cataloging error or possibly even a packaging error. It happens, even at the O.E level.

 

[MIKEO]

Thanks everyone for your information. Since I installed the new (incorrect) part, and the hood finally locks, I’ll get the correct part on line or a retail parts store in area...provided it happens fast. I’ll install the right part and return the incorrect part for credit. Will let you know what happens.

 

[MIKEO]

Ordered the right part from another vendor and all is good. Quick Parts sent another email showing me the Ford Specs for 2013-15 but my car is 2016. It was apparent they were more concerned with proving it was the right part, rather than keeping the customer happy. I decided to forget trying to get the refund.