2014 Ford Fiesta timing belt guide broken

[Iconagaurd]

Hi I have a 2014 Ford Fiesta SE that I recently changed the water pump on. When I replaced the water pump I realized the timing belt looked like it was about to fall off and in fact the plastic cover had marks all over it. I’ve attached images of what it looks like. I’m afraid of driving the car much more because this could be a serious problem. How can I repair this myself or where can I go to get it repaired and how much could it cost? I’m posting on this website specifically because I am in love with this car and it seemed like a good idea. Thanks

 

[Handy Andy]

When something like this is happening, I get thrown back into my own experiences with another motor that I got taken to the cleaners on after the vehicle it was in, got struck by a deer - leaking and leaving the motor in worser shape than what the vehicle was worth. I had taken a small, short movie of the cam gear wobbling and the shake the motor has revealing the bent valve train and crushed valve cover too.

That was a $1200 investment because the insurance that I had to cover the vehicle damage balked at the extra cost and refused to continue coverage - let alone pay off the damages to replace the motor. This was all done at the shop the Insurance company told me to take it too - so you know...

Ok, the above is serious because the crack can show impact or deformity - from what? Only you may know - we can only imagine.

It more than likely from the water pump - or the idler pulley - but the crack - as said earlier - was from the wobble of a worn bearing - hopefully nothing more serious than that - but it will take leaving off the cover to let the engine run to see if the camshaft pulleys are "wobbling" too, which is from the worn bearing losing track and the intermittent seizure (drag) and retention that can occur if the belt "jammed" against the housing for instantaneous moments causing that wear pattern you see above.

You'll also need to verify that the belt is tracking normally again after the replacement - you'll need a new cover - for that does indicate worn, and to replace this is just cheap insurance on keeping the dirt out and the seals intact (the weakened spot) for another long set of miles and Revolutions for it to go thru.

 

[Iconagaurd]

When something like this is happening, I get thrown back into my own experiences with another motor that I got taken to the cleaners on after the vehicle it was in, got struck by a deer - leaking and leaving the motor in worser shape than what the vehicle was worth. I had taken a small, short movie of the cam gear wobbling and the shake the motor has revealing the bent valve train and crushed valve cover too.

That was a $1200 investment because the insurance that I had to cover the vehicle damage balked at the extra cost and refused to continue coverage - let alone pay off the damages to replace the motor. This was all done at the shop the Insurance company told me to take it too - so you know...

Ok, the above is serious because the crack can show impact or deformity - from what? Only you may know - we can only imagine.

It more than likely from the water pump - or the idler pulley - but the crack - as said earlier - was from the wobble of a worn bearing - hopefully nothing more serious than that - but it will take leaving off the cover to let the engine run to see if the camshaft pulleys are "wobbling" too, which is from the worn bearing losing track and the intermittent seizure (drag) and retention that can occur if the belt "jammed" against the housing for instantaneous moments causing that wear pattern you see above.

You'll also need to verify that the belt is tracking normally again after the replacement - you'll need a new cover - for that does indicate worn, and to replace this is just cheap insurance on keeping the dirt out and the seals intact (the weakened spot) for another long set of miles and Revolutions for it to go thru.

hi thanks for replying. We replaced the timing belt tensioner as well as the timing belt itself and the problem persists. One of my dad’s friend is mechanic and he helped us time the engine. He said everything was ok with the engine except for that fact that it looks like there’s one part that keeps the timing belt centered and that that was broken. He did not know exactly how to fix it because he usually works on older engines but he said it was worth fixing. At the moment the car still drive well and I’m debating on taking to a shop to get it fixed. I just don’t want it to cost like $5000 because I know car repairs are way overpriced.

 

[Handy Andy]

He said everything was ok with the engine except for that fact that it looks like there’s one part that keeps the timing belt centered and that that was broken. He did not know exactly how to fix it because he usually works on older engines but he said it was worth fixing.

This is the crux here, is he referring to the tensioner assembly?

Then it may indicate the WATER PUMP will also have to be replaced - this is where the "Tensioner assembly" goes onto to keep the belt centered - if the cover and the subsequent "yanking" and retightening from the jumping of the belt - that action sets you up for a imminent failure of the main device the keeps your engine coolant moving and the engine itself from overheating.

Or you really have more of a fact finding tour and you will have to look into this further, for to me, the loss of "tracking" usually is from the Tensioner losing it's ability to keep the belt tight against the gears and you're noticing problems with timing and "Check Engine Light" is trying to come on.

So, By Your Word...​

There is a specific series of steps that have to be performed so you don't lose the timing aspect - including finding Top Dead Center if needed - and when you have such an issue, you really should place the engine in TDC - with the pin at the Crank Harmonic balancer side - in to "freeze" it at TDC - you also have a tool that verifies and will hold the cams in place as you rethread the belt. (shown above)

Now, if the vehicle or motor was from a prior (used motor replacing blown motor) then a previous user had damage and you're now stuck with motor that has bent parts and wobbles - which is out of plumb and causing the issue requires a further diagnosis including a runout tool to find the cam that has that wobble in it.

For the Tensioner, and the bottom gear from the Crank - has/uses a flange to keep the belt to the crank - but it is up to the tensioner to handle and keep the belt from vibrating excessively - which if what I fear is true, then you have a worn (if not just one, both) cams and even a warped crank gear - and your stuck with a motor that is warped - looks like from the shell casing - got struck and froze the motors cams or crank gear - for a moment as it was under load, causing this wobble from the instantaneous torque impact this strike caused the motor to slow or stop and bend something until the clearance was re-established after the impact rebounded.

​

Or worse...the Crankshaft Sprocket - being as worn as it is after a lot of miles, has done something like this...

​

Your part number is BE8Z6306AD - Crankshaft Timing Sprocket

So, review the photos above and if your engines tensioner, water pump and CAM-shaft sprockets are all ok, then review and look to see if the CRANK-shaft sprocket gear is failed - the VID to help explain this, is here...

 

[Iconagaurd]

This is the crux here, is he referring to the tensioner assembly?

Then it may indicate the WATER PUMP will also have to be replaced - this is where the "Tensioner assembly" goes onto to keep the belt centered - if the cover and the subsequent "yanking" and retightening from the jumping of the belt - that action sets you up for a imminent failure of the main device the keeps your engine coolant moving and the engine itself from overheating.

Or you really have more of a fact finding tour and you will have to look into this further, for to me, the loss of "tracking" usually is from the Tensioner losing it's ability to keep the belt tight against the gears and you're noticing problems with timing and "Check Engine Light" is trying to come on.

View attachment 6415

So, By Your Word...​

There is a specific series of steps that have to be performed so you don't lose the timing aspect - including finding Top Dead Center if needed - and when you have such an issue, you really should place the engine in TDC - with the pin at the Crank Harmonic balancer side - in to "freeze" it at TDC - you also have a tool that verifies and will hold the cams in place as you rethread the belt. (shown above)

Now, if the vehicle or motor was from a prior (used motor replacing blown motor) then a previous user had damage and you're now stuck with motor that has bent parts and wobbles - which is out of plumb and causing the issue requires a further diagnosis including a runout tool to find the cam that has that wobble in it.

For the Tensioner, and the bottom gear from the Crank - has/uses a flange to keep the belt to the crank - but it is up to the tensioner to handle and keep the belt from vibrating excessively - which if what I fear is true, then you have a worn (if not just one, both) cams and even a warped crank gear - and your stuck with a motor that is warped - looks like from the shell casing - got struck and froze the motors cams or crank gear - for a moment as it was under load, causing this wobble from the instantaneous torque impact this strike caused the motor to slow or stop and bend something until the clearance was re-established after the impact rebounded.

View attachment 6417​

Or worse...the Crankshaft Sprocket - being as worn as it is after a lot of miles, has done something like this...

View attachment 6416
​

Your part number is BE8Z6306AD - Crankshaft Timing Sprocket

So, review the photos above and if your engines tensioner, water pump and CAM-shaft sprockets are all ok, then review and look to see if the CRANK-shaft sprocket gear is failed - the VID to help explain this, is here...

Yes what’s shown in the video is exactly what’s going on with the car. How much will it cost to fix?

 

[Handy Andy]

If you're willing to do the labor, watch the Vid and even do a search for other vids showing how to use the "timing belt replacement kit" - you'll see several methods. But each one is a specific approach and addresses concerns for one particular person, so you really should look at your own experience and that hands on you had, takes the most precedence to find ways around the removal - expose, uncover - reveal - disassemble - fixate - install - release - re-tension - and then reassembly.

The Gear itself - is less than $100 USD at the moment. The gear can even be repaired (rethread screws to hold that guide flange to the gear and use a thread locker) so if the gear and it's "chuck key" (keyway to keep the gear turning with, and at, the crankshaft speed) are in good shape - the repair may be as simple as getting that gear guide back on as shown in the above photos.

I strongly urge you to think about water pump replacement too.

Many of the jigs/tools supplied in the kit are to help you remove belts and replace otherwise older worn hardware as well as the required upgrade and replacement - but also to show you that while you have that much stuff off, replacing the Water Pump on top of this, is better for your long-term life of the vehicle - the amount of stuff you have to remove, layer by layer (like an onion) and all of this with its labor, is intensive, you're better off just getting the pump replaced while everything around those cams - can be reached to complete the job.

Why? - because the timing belt and all that hardware will have to be removed all over again once the pump reaches the end of its life - and if this is an OEM - with over 100K? - best to do ALL that work once than to keep repeating it over and over again.

 

[Iconagaurd]

Yes what’s shown in the video is exactly what’s going on with the car. How much will it cost to fix?

If you're willing to do the labor, watch the Vid and even do a search for other vids showing how to use the "timing belt replacement kit" - you'll see several methods. But each one is a specific approach and addresses concerns for one particular person, so you really should look at your own experience and that hands on you had, takes the most precedence to find ways around the removal - expose, uncover - reveal - disassemble - fixate - install - release - re-tension - and then reassembly.

The Gear itself - is less than $100 USD at the moment. The gear can even be repaired (rethread screws to hold that guide flange to the gear and use a thread locker) so if the gear and it's "chuck key" (keyway to keep the gear turning with, and at, the crankshaft speed) are in good shape - the repair may be as simple as getting that gear guide back on as shown in the above photos.

I strongly urge you to think about water pump replacement too.

Many of the jigs/tools supplied in the kit are to help you remove belts and replace otherwise older worn hardware as well as the required upgrade and replacement - but also to show you that while you have that much stuff off, replacing the Water Pump on top of this, is better for your long-term life of the vehicle - the amount of stuff you have to remove, layer by layer (like an onion) and all of this with its labor, is intensive, you're better off just getting the pump replaced while everything around those cams - can be reached to complete the job.

Why? - because the timing belt and all that hardware will have to be removed all over again once the pump reaches the end of its life - and if this is an OEM - with over 100K? - best to do ALL that work once than to keep repeating it over and over again.

hi thanks for reply. We already changed the water pump and it works great. The only reason we were messing with that area in the first place was to replace the water pump. And good thing we did because we caught something that could’ve been a serious problem. The water pump is probably stock and the car has 110k miles on it. The baring in there was shot as well. What we’re gonna do is buy the replacement part and take it to a shop to get it replaced. It looks like the genuine part I found online was like $20.