No crank, try multiple times and then start

[Dto60]

Car is a 2013 Ford Fiesta Titanium Automatic - North American Version
I have two issues, not sure if they are related

1) no crank, no start. When you turn the key to start you hear relays clicking and sounds and lights like it wants to start but there is no crank. If you try multiple times in a row she will start. Sometimes it’s the second try, sometimes it’s the 5th…sometimes it’s the first try. Not sure how to diagnose. I changed the neutral safety switch but get the same results.

2) there is a parasitic draw issue. Again I’m having issues diagnosing this. if I don’t use the car for 3 or 4 days the car may need a boost. I had two new batteries. Since installing the second new battery I triple charge it to prevent issues. i tested the alternator, it’s good - I’m getting 14.x volts when car is running. I tried pulling fuses to find the voltage impact after waiting 30 mins for the car to got to sleep. No luck in finding and issue.

i put the car on Forscan and I don’t see any codes. Ant help or tips would be appreciated.

 

[Fiestaparty]

Hello neighbour!
Have you tried leaving the key in position 2 for 30 seconds before starting? With older fuel pumps (in some vehicles-I'm honestly not sure about Fiestas) they can take a little longer to get the fuel where it needs to be to start. I suggest this because you mentioned not using the car for 2 or 3 days at a time, and maybe the fuel has drained in that time. PM me and we can figure out if we live on the same side of the Park.

 

[Handy Andy]

The older style Fiestas use a predecessor to what we have in the USA as a breakout box called Battery Junction Block - that unit is bolted to the batteries own Positive terminal adapter (yes - adapter) that also bolts on the Starter and Alternator line that the heavy gauge that cable is, routes down to the Starter - it's solenoid and then onto the Alternator.

On the latter Fiesta models - they refined it a bit to make it easier to service and also provide better provisions to push power to the points that need it. EPAS, ABS and Starter / Charging - systems needed more help in getting the power they demand.

They also upgraded some of the wiring and the crimping to include a polyolefin material to reduce corrosion - looks a lot like gelatin but is designed to withstand heat and when it gets hot - flows into and fills gaps to reduce water entry. They did not posses this technology in some earlier models - so some where left vulnerable to the elements.

So it may be the Solenoid or it's trigger wire - is not seated - or has corroded to a point where the wire itself can't pass the current well enough at any given time - so it needs you to wiper the starter contact on the keyswitch - or in Push to Start - hit it several times to make the relays kick and burnish their spot contacts by the trigger you create using the press to start - to push enough current into the wire to finally get the starter and it's solenoid to engage and turn over the motor.

IF the Starter turns over at a good rate and doesn't sound slow - then more than likely it can be the Push to start relay, it's wiring or if you use the older key tumbler - the switch circuit needs to be investigated including the starter relay - again located on the steering column - so the wheel - it's turn signal and wipers - when removed - should reveal that relay.

In specific cases in the UK, they also used a Starter inhibit relay that worked as a fail-safe to prevent theft - if this relay has not been checked - it may be necessary to have the fusebox in the engine compartment inspected as it may have corroded wiring causing this problem.

 

[Dto60]

Hello neighbour!
Have you tried leaving the key in position 2 for 30 seconds before starting? With older fuel pumps (in some vehicles-I'm honestly not sure about Fiestas) they can take a little longer to get the fuel where it needs to be to start. I suggest this because you mentioned not using the car for 2 or 3 days at a time, and maybe the fuel has drained in that time. PM me and we can figure out if we live on the same side of the Park.

Hi Neighbour, I’m just south of hwy 14. Thank you for the feedback. Tried it and thought it was going to work. It was successful on the first try. But it still fails … its still a intermittent problem

 

[Dto60]

The older style Fiestas use a predecessor to what we have in the USA as a breakout box called Battery Junction Block - that unit is bolted to the batteries own Positive terminal adapter (yes - adapter) that also bolts on the Starter and Alternator line that the heavy gauge that cable is, routes down to the Starter - it's solenoid and then onto the Alternator.

On the latter Fiesta models - they refined it a bit to make it easier to service and also provide better provisions to push power to the points that need it. EPAS, ABS and Starter / Charging - systems needed more help in getting the power they demand.

They also upgraded some of the wiring and the crimping to include a polyolefin material to reduce corrosion - looks a lot like gelatin but is designed to withstand heat and when it gets hot - flows into and fills gaps to reduce water entry. They did not posses this technology in some earlier models - so some where left vulnerable to the elements.

So it may be the Solenoid or it's trigger wire - is not seated - or has corroded to a point where the wire itself can't pass the current well enough at any given time - so it needs you to wiper the starter contact on the keyswitch - or in Push to Start - hit it several times to make the relays kick and burnish their spot contacts by the trigger you create using the press to start - to push enough current into the wire to finally get the starter and it's solenoid to engage and turn over the motor.

IF the Starter turns over at a good rate and doesn't sound slow - then more than likely it can be the Push to start relay, it's wiring or if you use the older key tumbler - the switch circuit needs to be investigated including the starter relay - again located on the steering column - so the wheel - it's turn signal and wipers - when removed - should reveal that relay.

In specific cases in the UK, they also used a Starter inhibit relay that worked as a fail-safe to prevent theft - if this relay has not been checked - it may be necessary to have the fusebox in the engine compartment inspected as it may have corroded wiring causing this problem.

Thank you Handy Andy, I will investigate this on the weekend and report back.