Partly the reason for that discrepancy is due to type of Injection as well as Size of motor.
TDI versus GDI ...
1.0 L eco-Boost vs 1.6 Normally Aspirated
I'll look around my motor to find a number for you shortly..I have SE 2018 1.6 NA type...
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Here ya' go!
OR rotated 90 degrees...
As of this valve date 11/3/18 06:08.33
BV61-9G866-AA
At one point there was a TSB / FSB - on this valve or similar that made a "clacking" sound loudly enough to warrant a recall. So check into that when you have the time to get this to a dealer. (At least one willing to work with you...not that they don't. But if the valve failed OPEN - it can crush the innards of the Canister - but not "kill" the start of the car - it can then leak fuel out of the gas tank onto the floor.)
BM5Z-6A785-C - Vapor Canister Purge Valve
This is the "canister" it's on...
This thing?
CU5Z-9F945-A
Er...no ...
Unless you drive a Ford Fusion or Transit - wrong valve...
This may be an expensive lesson, but if you just fill until it "clicks off" that is the best method.
Fuels these days have got lot of detergents and surfactant additives that allow the fuel to clean and vaporize far more easily than the fuels made just a decade ago. They also have a lot more Ethane-based (Alcohol - Methyl and Ethyl) stuff to act like a burnable "filler" - their H-O-C chains are a lot shorter than your typical Gas (the Octane Value on the pump) so although it burns - the shorter chains do not provide as much energy as their longer chain Petroleum counterparts.
Kingsford anyone?
These newer blends? Creates a bit of a condition of "Evap" overload that can prevent the car from starting because Ethyl and Methyl are also excellent solvents - destroying the canister and dissolving the charcoal - putting this mess into the line to be burned at the engine - which if not careful can cause engine damage. It's why you have all those check valves and screens to keep charcoal from getting sucked in, but remember too - there are other problems - air, water and debris trapped in this media - so anything that the valve cant pull - will set a code - but if the canister fails - another type of air leak with no vapors - just air - can form - causing a LEAN condition where you can't start the vehicle because it runs too lean
Now before you can inject (SIC) that the Charcoal doesn't dissolve - er no not directly - but if you use lighter fluid - the charcoal "softens" into a powder - which makes the air getting pulled thru the system to Purge the fumes out of the canister - harder to get thru. If you research EVAP canister innards thru You Tube, you'll see the charcoal lays loose in the canister. So it's not "secured" in a mesh like a catalytic converters core - it's only held back from getting sucked into the motor by a set of screens, or media filters. Got into an accident with careless drivers? Watch out - that is when your cars' back end gets hit, can cause problems with the delicate balance the EVAP system is with the fuels of today - and will give you troubles.
Since this is an emissions issue and you just bought it, just don't top it off all the time if you can avoid the 2nd or third click off top-off moments to try and squeeze more into it. I've done this before with my other vehicles - it's already had that happen to some of my cars from other brands I've owned and it will cause drivability problems if you keep doing it. They honor warranty problems once, keep causing the same condition - it can, will fail, and does get expensive.
