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P0300 and P0301 Only happens at High speed Going down a long downhill grade..Help?

NeilH

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#1
I am Stumped...The engine light will flash. when Im going like 80mph and then I hit a down hill section of road or freeway engine lights starts blinking. It goes away if I slow down then give it some more gas. Brand new spark plugs and wires and coil pack...No other codes when I pull them Just P0300 and P0301. Any suggestions ? I am complexly stumped. The engine has been replaced and has only 30,000 miles on it...Thanks
 

scotman

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#2
Those are codes for " multiple cylinder random misfire"
How old are the plug wires?
If you didn't replace the wireset, did you handle them with great care?
Did you possibly apply too much anti seize compound to the spark plug threads?
A flashing orange engine MIL indicates that the catalyst is over heating. That one is very serious. It means that the catalyst is being damaged.
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #3
Those are codes for " multiple cylinder random misfire"
How old are the plug wires?
If you didn't replace the wireset, did you handle them with great care?
Did you possibly apply too much anti seize compound to the spark plug threads?
A flashing orange engine MIL indicates that the catalyst is over heating. That one is very serious. It means that the catalyst is being damaged.
Very little anti seize compound
Yes
Handled the wires with care
Its showing a misfire under those specific conditions
The car runs perfectly otherwise
Its strange
I can take it to 90 plus miles an hour then let off the gas a bit and it will do it
Otherwise
Nope
High rpm and very little load seems to make it happen
 

scotman

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#4
Check the coil. They can fail. After that, look at the wiring harness to the fuel injectors. After that you need to get a read on fuel pressure. Because the fuel pump would then be the next suspect. You dont mention how many miles are on it, so I am spit balling possible causes.
That it is going "lean" on hills is an indication of the fuel pump not being able to keep up with the demand.being a drive by wire vehicle it has a pump driver that interprets throttle angle and sends a request for more fuel to the pump.
 
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Handy Andy

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#5
IT can also mean a small leak in a normal vacuum condition is showing up as a failed intake manifold to Cylinder gasket or another condition similar, during high deceleration moments of where intake manifold vacuum exceeds a limit of a gasket so it generates a leaking seal - where the air seal around the various points of entry - made another point of entry either as a poorly retorqued spark plug (unlikely) onto a throttle body to intake gasket seal fail or even a loose MAP or crushed PCV hose - but not as crushed as closed off, more like cracked and allows air in during this high-manifold vacuum condition causing the leaner misfires.

In regard to this, the 30,000miles is about the time when the throttle body should be inspected and even cleaned - but to point to a specific area - this condition is linked to lean mis-fire - all cylinders - random, during deceleration - and so oxygen is getting to the O2 sensors - enough of where the Catalyst is in danger of overheating and further damage of collapse. So, the exhaust system is even suspect as in loose manifold bolts or the output collector to intake of the catalyst - that seal is failing - because the engine can get air in thru the exhaust manifold during these high vacuum intakes - due to the leak in the seal - you did tell us the engine was replaced.

So, did they do their job correctly?

How do I know this - ever hit a deer?

When a frontal impact like what a deer can do - shifts (moves) the motor - even off its' mounts - and if you rolled over that mess - it can also make even more of a mess with the exhaust system and the EVAP/Gas tank inclusive.

So the "put it all back together moments in the shop" one of many things can be reused...sometimes that includes much of the OEM exhaust system - so it just gets bolted back on - then you have another mess with that - and loose bolts are a tell tale sign of poorly reassembled motor and or vehicle - so you have to roll up your sleeves and get dirty to find the leaks.
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #6
I really looked everything over...
My overall gut feeling is that the fuel pump over heats under load or just cant keep up after a heavy load it keeps up under normal conditions..
I ordered a replacement
I will update after it is installed by me...
The car itself has a lot of hours of use before the engine replacement
Only 100k miles
But all of them hard miles
Door to door sales
A lot of idling
Probably more like 200k at least
In this case the mileage is not an accurate measurement of use or wear
 

Handy Andy

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#7
Let us know how it goes - never hear much about fuel pump overheats in a Fiesta

To me you'd have a heck of a time driving the vehicle when it's in a cold environment - demands more from the pump so you'd have hesitation and poor acceleration - you didn't describe this - this is from a downhill - deceleration condition - where the fuel in the fuel pump is NOT needed - this condition is a lack of fuel arriving - but can be from lack of ability to pull the fuel into the cylinder from a vacuum leak in intake or exhaust - than an overheating fuel pump.
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #8
It wasn't the fuel pump...But there was a lot less noticeable hesitation and the car seemed to have more pepp after I replace it. I then replaced the throttle body assembly. Upon Inspection of the old one it was not only dirty but had some scratches and damage on the inside...Not sure how that could have happened..Strange how it would only act up at high speed and down hill. Seems to be fine now. The car runs like new again. Capture.PNG
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #9
Let us know how it goes - never hear much about fuel pump overheats in a Fiesta

To me you'd have a heck of a time driving the vehicle when it's in a cold environment - demands more from the pump so you'd have hesitation and poor acceleration - you didn't describe this - this is from a downhill - deceleration condition - where the fuel in the fuel pump is NOT needed - this condition is a lack of fuel arriving - but can be from lack of ability to pull the fuel into the cylinder from a vacuum leak in intake or exhaust - than an overheating fuel pump.
It was warm
Driving from California to Arizona
Then back
Before that driving from California inland empire to Los Angeles and back
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #10
Also
An update for other Fiesta owners
Mine is a 2016 S
Base model but with the kinda nice radio and stuff
Roll up windows
No armrest...lol
This is what I needed to replace before all of this...
Before I blew my engine...
Which was just a hose that blew out in the middle of nowhere..
And I kept going because I had my granddaughter and pregnant daughter with me...
Could not be helped.
My radiator fan went out had to be replaced at like 50k miles
I bought a cheap one on Amazon
It died a year later
Bought a lifetime warranty Dorman one
Its been fine since
I replaced the struts
Preloaded did it my self
That was a wonderful purchase...
Lol
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #11
Keep an eye on your heater hose return
That's what blew...engine death
It's at the fire wall...
 

Handy Andy

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#12
IF you still have the OLD throttle body, remove/pry out the 4 - 5 clips that hold that black plastic board to the body - to expose the "guts" and look at the wiper arm follow it has - there are several "lines" of carbon trace that a set of fingers gently rub against to apply pressure and the electronics inside this "cover" are the means that the PCM uses to determine throttle angle - compared to accelerator pedal - and you'll also see the gearing and stepper motor that moves the main gear and thru the reduction process - moves a large bump the stepper does, to a smaller but much higher torqued - movement for the throttle plate.

Think of this like an older "Volume control" for a stereo - if the pot (variable resistor potentiometer) got dirty, you heard scratchy hissy sounds as you rotated that control - until it could find a clean spot and boom - the volume worked - but only at the spot of turn for the volume knob. Age and wear from typical use does this to any mechanical system.

As this unit ages, those traces of carbon get grooved and eventually they fail - because the whiskers used to contact the carbon, wear and the carbon trails get worn off to a bare plastic non-conductive bottom that now the system needs help in determining the angle it thinks it has, to the one that actually exists; that is part of the slop or gap in the electrical measurement that the accelerator pedal now has to take over and take its place as "presumed" angle to real angle.

So, in light of the problem you had - this condition and cause seems to make much better sense - the lean mixture it wanted - versus what the throttle could be "turned" to - prolly didn't match up very well so the system thinks there is a problem and set a whole bunch of flags and the check engine light.

Glad to know it was something simple - although not exactly cheap - but simple enough you can swap out the old and use the new and recover.

KEWL!
 
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NeilH

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Thread Starter #13
IF you still have the OLD throttle body, remove/pry out the 4 - 5 clips that hold that black plastic board to the body - to expose the "guts" and look at the wiper arm follow it has - there are several "lines" of carbon trace that a set of fingers gently rub against to apply pressure and the electronics inside this "cover" are the means that the PCM uses to determine throttle angle - compared to accelerator pedal - and you'll also see the gearing and stepper motor that moves the main gear and thru the reduction process - moves a large bump the stepper does, to a smaller but much higher torqued - movement for the throttle plate.

Think of this like an older "Volume control" for a stereo - if the pot (variable resistor potentiometer) got dirty, you heard scratchy hissy sounds as you rotated that control - until it could find a clean spot and boom - the volume worked - but only at the spot of turn for the volume knob. Age and wear from typical use does this to any mechanical system.

As this unit ages, those traces of carbon get grooved and eventually they fail - because the whiskers used to contact the carbon, wear and the carbon trails get worn off to a bare plastic non-conductive bottom that now the system needs help in determining the angle it thinks it has, to the one that actually exists; that is part of the slop or gap in the electrical measurement that the accelerator pedal now has to take over and take its place as "presumed" angle to real angle.

So, in light of the problem you had - this condition and cause seems to make much better sense - the lean mixture it wanted - versus what the throttle could be "turned" to - prolly didn't match up very well so the system thinks there is a problem and set a whole bunch of flags and the check engine light.

Glad to know it was something simple - although not exactly cheap - but simple enough you can swap out the old and use the new and recover.

KEWL!
$70 part delivered ...Not bad ...Stuff wears out...And its The Bosch ...If you are not in California you can order the Dorman Version for about $50...Amazon wont deliver that part to California...
 


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