Need help, i have a ford fiesta 16 issue with brake i change brake pump, stil brake pedal goes down on brake, i pump 2 times and the pedal go hard

[Robert2024]

Need help, i have a ford fiesta 16 issue with brake i change brake pump, sometimes the brake pedal goes down on brake, i pump 2 times and the pedal go hard, i dont know whats wrong ,no dash light on

 

[Mercurios2011]

San Juan Puerto Rico !!, I grew up in Quebradillas pueblo Pirata!

So walk me thru what you did and why ? Maybe we can figure something out, lots of knowable people on this forum

 

[scotman]

Possible vacuum leak on booster or lines from intake to the booster?

 

[Handy Andy]

Pedal goes to the floor then goes solid - there is a brake booster and it's vacuum chamber which helps with the assist in applying the Power of the power Brakes - so the first or second push (pump action) of the pedal is a sign the vacuum in the booster is working and is sealing properly even when parked- good job!

Usually a pedal that drops to the floor every time you use it (that spongy feeling in the pedal) - means you got air in the system. When the Master Cylinder - (per USA) - your pump, the system needs to be bled - sometimes a lot of bleeding of fluid is needed. Air can be compressed, but fluid cannot be as easily done - so if you have issues with brakes - air may be the bigger culprit else the Master Cylinder might need to be rechecked and even replaced - rebuild units are not always the most reliable when it comes to working right out of the box.

The thing uses an ABS system, which also adds lengths and volume of air or fluid you need to displace. So - to help with that, it may need to have the engine running - brake pedal and the rear brake lights off but PARKING BRAKE set - and bleed the brakes starting at the farthest point in length

• - in the USA the Driver sits on the LEFT side so that puts the booster and Master Cylinder to the LEFT
• - and so that makes the RIGHT REAR the longest run, then LEFT REAR thge next longest then the Right Front and finally the Left Front.

The Brake Bleed procedure is pretty simple. You can even do it yourself if you have the tools. What you need; a vacuum pump, a hose to fit the bleeder screw nipple outlet, a container designed to work as a trap - (it may come with the vacuum pump so use that in those tools to help) and a simple open end wrench 8mm or so to fit the hex nut of that fitting and crack it open. You use the vacuum pump to suck out the fluid in the line and any air that might be trapped with it - into that container. The engine needs to be running to maintain the vacuum on the booster to help the Master Cylinder keep those drain back ports open so it can move fluid as you work the vacuum pump to bleed the system.

Starting on the line with the longest length to it - being in the USA, Right Rear.

If you do this yourself - the brake pedal is left open no pressure - so the ports in the MASTER CYLINDER can drain into the lines to that Caliper (Drum Brakes) or Wheel Cylinder (Rear Drum Brakes) which is what they do when it's at rest. Using the vacuum pump simply helps pull fluid and any trapped air in the line, to that bleeder screw in that container as a means to vent that trapped air and drain fluid.

Then firmly reseal and tighten the nut of the fitting to seal the fluid in and keep air from re-entering.

Having a helper makes it push the fluid to the open screw easier but requires communication and understanding - so the helper keeps their foot on the pedal to push out the fluid per wheel - and only releases the pedal AFTER you re-tighten the bleeder screw of the wheel you're working on so no air goes back in.

 

[Mercurios2011]

the wheel cylinders may be leaking too, pull the drum out and inspect the seals on the pistons, there should be no fluid coming out , even grab a small pik/hook and gently pull, no fluid should come out at all