Adding Camber? Yikes!
Positive Camber - the top of the wheel sticks out the top of the wheelwell.(or bottom of the wheel appears to lean into the floor under the car)
Negative Camber - the top of the wheel (or tire) leans or tucks into the wheelwell, and the bottom of the tire seems to sag outwards - away from the car.
So this asks the next question.
What size bolts are you using for the Strut - to - Knuckle?
If stock - they are M10 X 2 - if you use M8 X 2 (combination sizing) - then the lean you get is as much as 5 degrees - you want more?
The OEM Ford bolt uses a "shoulder" in which the Strut bolt seat and the hole opposite - are sized slightly different - the SHOULDER side of the bolt lets the head sit flush to the flange - while if you put it in the wrong direction - the shoulder is designed to prevent you from "seating" the bolt flush using hand pressure if you insert the bolt into the wrong hole per direction. Simply reverse it. That is...if you're using STOCK OEM (Motorcraft) spec struts. - the thread size lets the bolt in, but to seat it correctly and keep OEM alignment - the Bolts shoulder needs to seat with little effort so the shoulder spacing and the Struts own clearance to the bolt - are snug and so it keeps the OEM alignment degree setting.
When the outside of the tire is wearing - and they are on the front - that means you have a lot of positive camber and the knife edge is really on the shoulder of the tread and causes this wear pattern.
But too, are you checking Toe in and Toe out? This can cause the tire to scrub the road wearing that shoulder and eventually the sidewall, to a point of failure. You'll need them serviced/replaced soon enough.
Also - Caster - the forward thrust from the top of the strut and it's steering axis - if your Toe is not equal or balances, as in; zero-nuts dead on - your tires as well as the suspension - will need a lot of help sooner than you think. The unequal lean of the caster will pull the car up or down a crown of the road as it tries to track and offset the thrust caused by the uneven road surface so it thinks it needs to "climb" a hill only as a very long slant of incline - and a constant one at that...
So when you say, need more Camber - you mean to correct the lean? Or you want to make the tire lean more in the direction it already is?
So to pull the tire and wheel rim straight up and down - best to replace the Strut - to - Knuckle bolts back to stock M10 size so the OEM lean the strut is "designed for" is corrected - that usual lean is no more than 1 to 1.5 degrees positive - with the rear axle Camber leans out the 1~1.5 degree for typical tire rotation cycle that provides more even tire rounding wear..
I hope this is what you needed to know