IF you can get the wheel off, the stud is pounded out - you can use the hammer and hit it from the front to push it back behind the hub.
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Sometimes, that means some disassembly is required. You have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper or drum - to expose the hub so you can even get at it. IT may not be necessary to remove the caliper or drum - but be ready to create room if needed to get more leverage and clearance to get at that stud.
BE8Z-1107-A is the Ford Part number for the replacement stud.
Kind of looks like this - best to get a nut that fits too...
The new stud is inserted and pulled thru to seat it - with reservations (
ugh!)
- - a set of washers or a nut slightly larger than the stud are used to force the stud to seat into the hub with the wheel nut used as the means to provide the threading force to pull the stud thru the hub from the back - to let the knurl edge bite into the hub and hold it in place once it is seated.
- a new wheel nut is best used to tighten the stud to the hub, (using those washers or nut as a spacer) to "seat" the new stud.
- It has a knurl area that "bites into" the hub to hold it in place and keeps it from turning
- - the Knurl diameter is important to know
- - for if the old stud damaged the hub, the new replacement might not fit snugly, it'll be too loose to hold within the hub and may not help you in getting the wheel off later
- - it will just sit and spin and you'll have an even bigger mess trying to remove the wheel later.
- - It's important that, you'll have to research the dimensions and find a bolt with a knurled edge of larger diameter to fit and seat into the hole if the old stud damaged or reamed out the hole to a larger diameter.
- It's not out of the question with older cars with old studs - that the hub is replaced as a new unit, that way the studs and bearings in the hub are all new and you don't have to worry about broken studs and bearing failures.