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Ford Fiesta1.6i Cranks but no start.

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#1
Hi. I have been working on my Fiesta for a while now. I had a failed Oil Pump on the free way and it lead to a break down. I bought a second hand engine block and installed to it the flywheel, pistons with new rings and new bearings. We build up the engine and now the car cranks but it won't start. We checked for spark it doesn't have spark. What did we miss?
 

tabijan

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#2
Do you have a good crank position sensor? I think you can check via OBD live data or AC volts at the sensor itself.

Does your car have an immobilizer feature? Is there a security or key symbol flashing? The car might not recognize the key.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles
 
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Thread Starter #3
Do you have a good crank position sensor? I think you can check via OBD live data or AC volts at the sensor itself.

Does your car have an immobilizer feature? Is there a security or key symbol flashing? The car might not recognize the key.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles
Do you have a good crank position sensor? I think you can check via OBD live data or AC volts at the sensor itself.

Does your car have an immobilizer feature? Is there a security or key symbol flashing? The car might not recognize the key.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles
 

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Thread Starter #4
These are the OBD II scan results.
 
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Thread Starter #5
We don't have any flashing light
 

tabijan

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#6
There you go. Check the crank position sensor.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 135K miles
 
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Thread Starter #7
So we used a multimeter to check the wiring and we got a 9 volt reading. Can we rule out the wiring?
 

tabijan

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#8
I don’t know what 9V means but I suppose the wires to the ECU are good if you get any reading.

The sensor in place but disconnected should show 0 VAC with the engine still and increasing volts AC proportional to rpms. Any volts when cranking is a good sign. If think you can use duty cycle mode on your tester instead of VAC.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles
 

Handy Andy

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#9
When you're looking at "9V" - the tester - is it set to DC?

Else if it is set to AC the 9V sounds correct.

It just needs a pulse to tell the system it is at TDC so the CMP's on the top side of the motor will help the PCM determine firing order. But it needs to SEE the 9V AC signal from that CKP.

So you're getting "crank" - however the CKP will only let the starter operate for so many seconds. If it's not getting read - it will only let the starter crank only so many seconds then it stops. So if it is acting like that - it's not seeing the CKP signal clearly enough to know and recognize TDC and the PCM then looks to the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensors) to figure out where in rotation the Intake and Exhaust are - then time the CMP to the CKP "Top of Rotation" on both Cams - then start out the initialization and fire the correct cylinders.

So are you reading this from the bottom side? Then you will have to trace that wire back thru the harness and I think you'll find the main culprit is at the junction of the harness at the bottom side of that battery box. Possibly from corroded wiring from a leaky battery.

If not, then the belt has jumped time and you'll need a new belt for the TDC the CKP is at and the CMP signals are not within their windows so it tells you to kindly stop and check CKP - it may need a new belt to realign the system - but if the bottom Crank bolt is loosened - all bets are off - it will need a tear-down and reset of TDC and the cranks cog gear changed.
 
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Thread Starter #10
Ohk. I will start with checking the harnes if it is fine I will look at disassembling the whole thing to check if the fly wheel and crankshaft are in time.
 

tabijan

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#11
Did you transfer the sensor from your old engine?

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 135K miles
 

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#12
Ohk. I will start with checking the harnes if it is fine I will look at disassembling the whole thing to check if the fly wheel and crankshaft are in time.
I don't think I said to do that?

But if possible - I asked when you checked the CKP sensor - was it done with the tester set to AC?

IF it's on DC and it's saying 9V all the time - then there is a problem, means the wiring is bad or the PCM you are using is bad because it's supposed to be looking for AC signal a simple pulse. The PCM doesn't send DC to it because the sensor Generates that pulses under it's own power from the coil and moving magnet (Induction) - but if something struck the sensor, the housing or the wiring got based around - then you have a fault caused by the wiring or the PCM got zapped by the hit and the PCM can't see the AC pulse from the sensor.
 
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Thread Starter #13
I will re so the test and confirm and I will update you.
 
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Thread Starter #15
When you're looking at "9V" - the tester - is it set to DC?

Else if it is set to AC the 9V sounds correct.

It just needs a pulse to tell the system it is at TDC so the CMP's on the top side of the motor will help the PCM determine firing order. But it needs to SEE the 9V AC signal from that CKP.

So you're getting "crank" - however the CKP will only let the starter operate for so many seconds. If it's not getting read - it will only let the starter crank only so many seconds then it stops. So if it is acting like that - it's not seeing the CKP signal clearly enough to know and recognize TDC and the PCM then looks to the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensors) to figure out where in rotation the Intake and Exhaust are - then time the CMP to the CKP "Top of Rotation" on both Cams - then start out the initialization and fire the correct cylinders.

So are you reading this from the bottom side? Then you will have to trace that wire back thru the harness and I think you'll find the main culprit is at the junction of the harness at the bottom side of that battery box. Possibly from corroded wiring from a leaky battery.

If not, then the belt has jumped time and you'll need a new belt for the TDC the CKP is at and the CMP signals are not within their windows so it tells you to kindly stop and check CKP - it may need a new belt to realign the system - but if the bottom Crank bolt is loosened - all bets are off - it will need a tear-down and reset of TDC and the cranks cog gear changed.
We did a 5V DC test and got 1.88 V and we also did a ground test and got 10.08 V. Both tests were done with the multimeter set at DC Volt with the ignition on. Do I continue to check the ground at the Computer box or by now it is safe to say the issue is with the wiring harness and it needs to be changed?
 

tabijan

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#16
Have you tested the sensor?

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 135K miles
 
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Thread Starter #17
Yes we did. It is a 2pin connector and when you connect the multimeter to it and move a spanner close to it you get different reading depending on the distance of the spanner.
 

tabijan

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#18
Did you test it while cranking the engine? Ford might spec a different crank sensor for the replacement block.

It’s strange that the engine was running until the oil pump failed, you changed the block then now there’s a problem with ECU or wiring. Did you confirm there is/isn’t an immobilizer? Spark? Fuel pressure?

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 135K miles
 
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Thread Starter #19
We don't have spark. We have fuel pressure but the injectors don't pump.
 

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#20
The 10V to ground tells me the plug needs to be double checked - make sure the (Ground for signal) return to the ECM is the same as the ECM's own ground.

Does the tester have continuity tone? IT helps to use that feature to determine if the shield/ground wire and ECM grounds are at the same potential.

Then trace back from the sensor - to the correct pin the Crank (CKP) sensor is supposed to be at at the ECM and check for continuity that way.

This sounds like an issue I had with knock sensors - once disconnected, they don't always return to having good connection and conductivity returning back to like they had before the connector got separated - I call it connector memory. That it worked when it was originally put together and survived all this time until it was unclipped and now it can't resat to make the same connections. The age of the unit compromised it.

IF the wires are that old, (2009) it may need some TLC to restore the like new conduction they need to sense the crank signal.

IT also might need to have that wire and it's shield replaced due to age. So do an ohmic check across those terminals as well as it's reference to ground (engine case and chassis to engine case - ground to make sure the shield wire is not eroded thru and shorting out the sense wire from all that handling. I mean, once the CKP is installed backprobe the leads to make sure the sensor is not compromised to ground and is causing this short itself
 


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