Ford Fiesta

[Meandu]

sorted

 

[Handy Andy]

There are two ways to review this.

One being - is the system having a leak in the intake?

Or is the system having a leak in the Exhaust?

The Code is due to the Oxygen sensor Upstream from the Catalytic converter - so it's in the exhaust stream just fresh from the cylinder head.

Might want to check the plugs, all of them - look for very light color onto one being different from the other two - then you know you have a leak - most likely in the intake - around the cylinder that plug came from

But if all the plugs look pretty much the same, time to rethink and consider that you may have struck a piece of debris that may have moved or shifted the exhaust manifold, and in doing so, the Exhaust side is the leak - meaning it just may need a new gasket or several seals replaced in the pipes from it (header) are compromised. This can also indicate a problem with the Catalyst - media possibly being loose so outside air that would have traveled back thru the pipe and catalyst from the vacuum on idle (exhaust volume cool down, it's volume changes - so it affects pressures) comes - returns - too easily and so the catalyst is on it's way out and needs replacement.

The Oxy sensors - you have two, look to each other in changes in the oxygen level between the two - if both are the same - then the system knows something is wrong.

When you place a load on the motor, like AC, the idle-up feature is used to provide more power to run that compressor.

So it leaves the "turbo" off - and works the throttle body by moving the vane a little bit more open to let more air in.

So the system tries to raise the idle up by not by much - so fuel trim should also adjust slightly - that is what it's looking for and if it can't - it sets this or similar codes - it's having trouble trimming the fuel to air ratio - which makes it think it's got a leak.

So if AC is low - check it with a mechanic, but it wouldn't even turn on if it did not have pressure - so if it comes on, that simple load affects the systems ability to idle - it can surge and try to seek a balance - uneven idle speed is detected so that code gets set.

Best answer I can give you with what has been posted so far...

To help you further...

Try reading article at this Link...
https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p2187-ford-fiesta/#P2187 Causes: Ford Fiesta

There are several suggestions they provide - one main one being to "spray" around gaskets and parts of the intake. Be careful with this for unless you're using an aerosol "Carb Clean" Zero-Residue based-spray you can make more of a mess than it's worth. The stuff is flammable so keep it away from hot exhaust and even the spark plug wires where arcing can ignite the fluid and scorch the wires and if it's left to itself - it can burn it, real bad. So you'll have to replace the wires - adding to the list.

I'll add some more;

Start the engine in an open area - Pop open the hood, let it idle watch it run - Get inside it and rev it slightly - not roaring - just speed up a little - listen to the motor - sitting inside - in the drivers seat - can you hear any extra whistle noise or a hiss?

Hesitation may signal a throttle body area leak...air is monitored by the MAP (MAPT T-Temperature) so if air is affecting mixture you'd know by the engines own hesitation and lack of power.

How about a tap-tap-tap or even a noticeable odor? From the running engine - leaking in from the motor - but the smell is like more of raw exhaust and not the typical "catalyst converted" smell. Check the back of the motor - the exhaust manifold can be cracked or a turbo seal is failing.

The check the plugs part helps you determine the type of leak - all of them the same or close to the same wear condition? Then the leak is not exactly at the intake - it may be a loose seal, but if no recent work was done to disturb the running engine in that area - only sudden impact damage or cracking of a hose makes the noise and hiss - tells you to look for a leak

PCV valve and EGR valve in these 1.0L engines are not easy to find but then too, are not subject to fail unless they're struck or pressured in some way physically to upset their seals.

Which ;leaves me to remind you to check the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe/muffler - a lot of miles can make seals break down and thru time generate air leaks you'd see evidence and even if no evidence directly - the CODE that is set is tell-tale sign that if all other means of entry are covered, the outlet - being the only other place of re-entry - is suspect.

 

[OC11]

Hi , first timer ..recently had an mot on my ford focus failed on a number of issues all sorted but had this one
Bonnet cannot be secured in the closed position (3.1 (b) (i))
mot inspector said " that's just a perished rubber no big deal " having fixed other issues taken a look for perished rubber and cannot see one, any ideas what he could be talking about ? Bonnet opens and closes fine always has .



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