Ford Fiesta 2017 Titanium Hatchback Won't start

[jwardweb]

Recently went over a speed bump a little bit too fast nothing crazy and the car kind of just stalled I guess and wouldn't start. I got frustrated and hit my horn a few times with my fist not sure if it triggered a anti-theft thing or what. Had to push my car in neutral to my house. Used my Code Reader and it shot out the code - P0339. Saying something about a crankshaft sensor. I first went to Autozone with my battery to get it tested. It had a 24% charge and they recharged it and said it was healthy. Put the battery back in and the car doesn't want to start. The brake pedal won't go down and the steering wheel is locked. The guy at Autozone says it's my alternator.

Yesterday just replaced the crankshaft sensor and still doesn't start. Lights on the dashboard flicker on/off and it tries to start. Even tried jumping my car. My brake pedal is also stiff so like I can't push it all the way down how I normally would. Anyone know what's going on? Possibly the relays or I guess the alternator at this point? The belt looks brand new!

Car is an Automatic.

Push to start, Radio works, Lights Work, Windows, Etc until I put my foot on the brake and start the car dash flickers and even the touch screen radio.

 

[scotman]

Look through the threads for “no start posts”. You probably need to clean the electrical system gounds. There are several areas that need attention.
Stop asking auto parts salesman what is “needed “. Many times the answer will be “buy parts”.

 

[Handy Andy]

When you ride bumps like that, and you lose a sensor - lots of times the system is so "jarred" from the event, you'll have to locate any places that can break plastic, including the positive terminal - that terminal uses a "buss" design made of plastic - if the wires and fuses cracked in two - this could be an expensive repair to replace those fusible links in that terminal block.

No start usually means the main cable to the starter solenoid and that alternator needs to be checked.

Why do I say terminal block - that is the main area that uses the battery post - to break down into a set of branches, which go off to the lights - horn radio PCM and Starter and Alternator and dash, but if the lights are flickering on the dash, then there may be a loose connector or broken connector where the pods (instrument cluster gauges) are - up to and including the board itself being cracked from that event.

 

[jwardweb]

When you ride bumps like that, and you lose a sensor - lots of times the system is so "jarred" from the event, you'll have to locate any places that can break plastic, including the positive terminal - that terminal uses a "buss" design made of plastic - if the wires and fuses cracked in two - this could be an expensive repair to replace those fusible links in that terminal block.

No start usually means the main cable to the starter solenoid and that alternator needs to be checked.

Why do I say terminal block - that is the main area that uses the battery post - to break down into a set of branches, which go off to the lights - horn radio PCM and Starter and Alternator and dash, but if the lights are flickering on the dash, then there may be a loose connector or broken connector where the pods (instrument cluster gauges) are - up to and including the board itself being cracked from that event.

When the car is jumped, and or battery is charged the dash doesn't flicker. I think just me trying different things drained my battery and it sitting so that's why maybe they flicker oh and also my touchscreen radio too. If i start the car but not fully the dash lights stay fine. If charged/jumped it'll just keep cranking. I have check engine, wrench, oil, and I cannot remember the other one. My plastic cover for my positive terminal came off you'll see in the pictures from my own doing it snapped off easily for no reason lol. The crankshaft sensor I replaced didn't seem to do anything. Although the previous one wasn't looking too good when I took it out:

Old one:






Relays:

Alternator & Belt:





My Engine and Battery:

 

[Handy Andy]

Finish removing that red terminal cover, then see if the starter cable heading to bolt on that big fusible link can be unbolted and re-bolted directly to the post bolt on the battery see if it can start.

If it SPARKS when you do this - STOP! It may mean the Starter Solenoid combo is broke - it can be shorted - the fusible link blew to save the rest of the system.

You may need a new starter.

​

 

[jwardweb]

Looks like it's the flex plate flywheel. It's pushing up against the crankshaft sensor and the old sensor is chewed up.

 

[Handy Andy]

Wonder how the bottom side of the motor looks, because if it's got road rash - its a strong clue as to @jwardweb approach, something certainly jarred it.

The other thing too is if the radiator and shroud - it's integrity - if it's not flying pieces of itself into the motor when the fan kicks on.

The reason I say this is the bumper can accept some abuse and rebound for some more, but the parts inside the past the bumper - if the, strike, bump - hit or whatever happened - while the engine was running - you experience this.

I've seen fan blades chunk off when the owner hops curbs when they had the AC on in the process - you can hear the blades scraping against the radiator. Leaves a plastic shard - and eventually a spray of coolant into the front windshield.