Ford Fiesta 1.5 tdci crank but wont start, and more.

[martijnoss]

Hello guys,
I have a big problem with my car.
Today i was driving on the highway and i lost power, the engine stops.
Also on the display i have the wrench light and it says that the battery charge system is defective.
I drive it near the road and it is cranking but the car wont run.

After i plugged in forscan i had several faults as you can see in the attachments.
The important fault is
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor A Circuit.(if it is the sensor is then the symptom that he shuts of and wont run anymore?)

The other follow up faults are,
P008A Low Pressure fuel system pressure- too low Additional:97 Component or system operation obstructed or blocked
P008A Low Pressure fuel system pressure- too low
P0556 Brake booster pressure sensor circuit range/performance
B1026 Steering column lock- Additional:09 component failures

I think that these faults are follow up because i drive the car on his own speed to a safe place without power steering.
But i am not sure because it is a car and it could be almost everything.

So does somebody recognize this problem and faults or have experience with this faults.

I tried my best to describe the problem but if anyone has questions please let me know.

Thanks for your time and maybe answers and a solution

 

[econoboxrocks]

Unless you are a good mechanic with the right tools, you'll need to take it somewhere to be repaired.

 

[Handy Andy]

The CKP sensor and its' redundant backup (Bank A) tells me the sensor at the bell housing is damaged, can't tell the system where the TDC is so the wiring or impact from road debris is causing this error.

However, these other listed failures are electrical in nature - so it may mean a failed electrical, or physical connector in the harness has failed or broken.

So that orange wrench light means a major service condition that you can't clear without knowing what caused the charging system failure - so that means Alternator - and "Let's replace it" may or may not work - so be ready for more work ahead of you.

+! @econoboxrocks on getting it to a service center.

 

[martijnoss]

The tools are not a problem, but I have to figure out what causes the problem.
First I try a new ckp se sensor.
Because that is the easiest thing to do.

After that I look at connectors and ground connections.
And after that I am lost and have to find it out again.

 

[Handy Andy]

Might want to check for broken or loose wiring - there is a terminal breakout box on the battery - it's under that Red cap on the positive post. This section also includes the main current wire for recharging the battery - from the Alternator.

So when you test your system, look at that terminal block - if the wires to it or on it are loose it will set this condition due to lack of power to keep the battery voltage up. This thread is telling me - the Alternator is not pushing enough power to balance out the electrical needs - so it also affects your steering - which uses electric motors to push and pull those tie rods on that steering rack - amongst other things - electrical.

So when you test and find the Alternator quit - great - just get a new on in there, else once that is replaced, there may be other problems from bad or loose wires or something struck the underside of the car and jarred wires loose.

 

[martijnoss]

Might want to check for broken or loose wiring - there is a terminal breakout box on the battery - it's under that Red cap on the positive post. This section also includes the main current wire for recharging the battery - from the Alternator.

So when you test your system, look at that terminal block - if the wires to it or on it are loose it will set this condition due to lack of power to keep the battery voltage up. This thread is telling me - the Alternator is not pushing enough power to balance out the electrical needs - so it also affects your steering - which uses electric motors to push and pull those tie rods on that steering rack - amongst other things - electrical.

So when you test and find the Alternator quit - great - just get a new on in there, else once that is replaced, there may be other problems from bad or loose wires or something struck the underside of the car and jarred wires loose.

It is fixed, i spend the whole day including a engine mound and the gearing looseness of the poke. so i had to make the tiny blocks and housing on the gearbox to the axle of the poke.

This morning we replaced the CPS sensor but unfortunately it wasn't that but i was close.
After that i measured all the fuses in the car in the engine bay but i haven't got luck.
We take the sensor of the camshaft but i didnt get an other error code and the engine cranks less shorter in time.

Then my friend says it had to be the cables.
So the contact points of the CPS were all the way back in the connector so it didn't make contact with the CPS.

So eventually it was a 1 minute fix, push them back and on the cable side 1 put supergleu so the cable cant come out of the first part of the connector.

I am very happy that the car drives like before and even beter with the other fixes.

Thank you all guys for the reactions.