dtc code P0809

[sakura90]

hello folks, its me again asking for knowledge... yesterday the check engine Light lit up... using a elm327 scanner
I found the code P0809, related to a clutch position sensor
can anyone be so kind to explain in more depth?
where to start
what I should check
thanks in avance

 

[LionsTooth]

I am guessing the car starts, so that is a good sign. Because the sensor could keep the car from starting. The first thing to do is reset the code and drive. See if it comes back or it was just a lost electron. Try this page.

 

[sakura90]

I am guessing the car starts, so that is a good sign. Because the sensor could keep the car from starting. The first thing to do is reset the code and drive. See if it comes back or it was just a lost electron. Try this page.

the car starts just fine, the only thing I noticed is that being in 1st gear the powershift it needs a bit more accelerator pedal to begin to move
first time I disconnected the battery positive for about 10 minutes, then the check engine light went off, but after a drive of about 10 miles in the parking lot when I used reverse I noticed it lighted up again

 

[Handy Andy]

Do you have a Powershift Transmission?

In the US, we call them DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission) It's the "S" on your shifter.

Considering you're living in a different Country, you'll need to coordinate with local dealers to help you.

You do need to use the Clutch in some instances - and it also may have "Hill Assist" which an Icon shows up on your dashboard.

You might want to break out the Owners Manual - for if you can START the vehicle - the the Clutch "depressed" signal is not being received.

This can cause the Transmission "module" to think it has to shift for you, so it places itself in a mode to override your controls - but with the clutch, the vehicle "holds" itself in position using the Hill Assist as a transparent "Back door" to keep the vehicle from moving forward until there is enough "accelerator pedal" pressed to allow the transmission to engage.

Look for this guy, may be White or Blue or even Black
in Body color...
​

The Clutch position switch, is located Under the Dashboard, by the Clutch pedal -
Grab a flashlight and find the lever - it will have a "tab" that works with the Clutch pedal -
Once you've found it, press the Clutch pedal to the floor -
Follow where that "tab" goes - it should go to a switch - (or a Flange) if the switch is simply dislodged, you might be able to reseat the switch back into the holster
How that works is by it uses two tabs, and a 1/4 turn - the tabs line up to the slots, where that larger tab "seats" against - the Plunger of the switch goes into the hole the tab's follow suit, the entire mess is seated and to "lock it" in place, the you turn the switch housing 1/4 turn to lock the tabs and keep the plunger in place.
This switch is so that when you press the clutch, the plunger will engage and allow the system to know you are shifting.

 

[sakura90]

Do you have a Powershift Transmission?

In the US, we call them DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission) It's the "S" on your shifter.

Considering you're living in a different Country, you'll need to coordinate with local dealers to help you.

You do need to use the Clutch in some instances - and it also may have "Hill Assist" which an Icon shows up on your dashboard.

You might want to break out the Owners Manual - for if you can START the vehicle - the the Clutch "depressed" signal is not being received.

This can cause the Transmission "module" to think it has to shift for you, so it places itself in a mode to override your controls - but with the clutch, the vehicle "holds" itself in position using the Hill Assist as a transparent "Back door" to keep the vehicle from moving forward until there is enough "accelerator pedal" pressed to allow the transmission to engage.

Look for this guy, may be White or Blue or even Black
in Body color...
View attachment 5215​

The Clutch position switch, is located Under the Dashboard, by the Clutch pedal -
Grab a flashlight and find the lever - it will have a "tab" that works with the Clutch pedal -
Once you've found it, press the Clutch pedal to the floor -
Follow where that "tab" goes - it should go to a switch - (or a Flange) if the switch is simply dislodged, you might be able to reseat the switch back into the holster
How that works is by it uses two tabs, and a 1/4 turn - the tabs line up to the slots, where that larger tab "seats" against - the Plunger of the switch goes into the hole the tab's follow suit, the entire mess is seated and to "lock it" in place, the you turn the switch housing 1/4 turn to lock the tabs and keep the plunger in place.
This switch is so that when you press the clutch, the plunger will engage and allow the system to know you are shifting.

the car has only 2 pedals, brake and accelerator
and this lever

 

[Handy Andy]

Then look under your dash, for the "Brake" and look for two plungers...

One plunger is for Brake light, the other is for Bypass and Hill Assist (as needed) These two plungers work when you hit the brake to help with releasing the "sport" mode (so it doesn't stay in Gear when you come to a stop.

​

The Black one is Brake, the Blue is a Bypass (Cruise) / Hill Assist designed to engage SOONER than the Black - Brake light plunger.

• What SOONER means is how the operator pressing on the Brake pedal - one Plunger will send a signal Before the other, (OR at the Same time)
  • Are you checking your Rear Brake light operation? IF the Brake Light, as you drive, stays on, remember this can set the condition you are experiencing. IF it doesn't come on at all, as you begin to brake - this is another condition this code can show for, meaning that the brakes are dragging.
• What can happen is , one or both of the Plunger can stick or ones throw compared to the level of engagement the Brakes Master Cylinder PISTON does, can trigger an error. The LOAD on the Engine MAF/MAP and TCM - it is supposed to look at Brake Light Plunger (Stop) as the ultimate "override" - if one plunger is not seating or sending the proper signal - as an ASPECT of operation (Depress or Release) code, excessive wear can result - so the code gets set.

IF these Plungers "aspects" are not correct, this set a similar code to yours.- again like the "3rd pedal" that you would have for Manual.

The Biggest clue I get from your posts are the reference to pressing the accelerator to get the thing to "go" in first Gear.

1st gear the powershift it needs a bit more accelerator pedal to begin to move

So since you mentioned "gear" - I figured you mean you had a manual.

In reference; you do, only the Car does that job when you "hit those buttons" which in light of your situation - make sure the "Shift - time buttons" they've been cleaned and free of French Fry Grease, Ketchup and other debris from dirty trigger fingers

A dirty switch or abused shifter (especially when used) You just don't know whom else got a hold of and did some rough handling that can cause underlying problems.

But in BOTH cases - if a Plunger is stuck (gone bad), off it's mount or has been removed, you'll get problems with shifting like this.

Hope these ideas and hints can help you diagnose the problem..

 

[sakura90]

just reading some info
https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/diagnosing-the-dps6-knowing-the-good-helps-you-identify-the-bad/
maybe the fix is just to substitute the clutch motors

 

[sakura90]

anybody has done that?

 

[Handy Andy]

Labor intensive.

Best left to a shop that KNOWS what they are doing.

​

It uses two.

Are you sure replacement is needed versus verifying the Electrical?

It may be cheaper to get a rebuilt transmission to replace it than to repair and as needed - rebuild, the current one.

 

[sakura90]

Labor intensive.

Best left to a shop that KNOWS what they are doing.

View attachment 5310
​

It uses two.

Are you sure replacement is needed versus verifying the Electrical?

It may be cheaper to get a rebuilt transmission to replace it than to repair and as needed - rebuild, the current one.

in my country the ford dealer sucks
it wont service any ford fiesta because the model wasnt sold here
in the post above, it says that the 2 clutch motors are easy to remove and reinstall without taking out the transmission

 

[Handy Andy]

The problem with just "swapping out" is the inability to inspect much of the transmission - you can replace the actuators, but cannot guarantee that the problems will go away.

You don't have anything to lose at the moment - so if you can get yourself back on your way doing this, then by all means try!

It's when it doesn't work, is where my experiences with first times at dealerships for major service came to play...

That's why I recommend a good shop - many Dealers don't want the hassle of transmission work - they will farm it out to another vendor to service thru them. Well, that's great, but that may add a few extra fees to the cost of this - on top of whom will be responsible for the repair warranty after the work is completed - will it still be covered by the Dealer or someone, some thing - else?

 

[econoboxrocks]

in my country the ford dealer sucks
it wont service any ford fiesta because the model wasnt sold here
in the post above, it says that the 2 clutch motors are easy to remove and reinstall without taking out the transmission

Do you have the resources to do that?

 

[sakura90]

Do you have the resources to do that?

I will try this