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Dash Issue after scan tool...

Messages
2
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0
City
Belton
State
SC
Country
United States
What I Drive
2012 Ford Fiesta SE
#1
Hi folks.

So, I've developed a problem. I purchased a Xtool D8w wireless and hooked it up to my 2012 Fiesta SE because I wanted access to a better scan tool, the bidirectional controls for trouble shooting, etc etc. I ran some diagnostic scans, cleared an old code it found, and tried a few of the advanced/personalize menu features while generally trying it out. Only thing of note during this was I ran the self diagnostic test function and got a P1464, which I looked up and found it was due to me having the AC on during the test like a dumb dumb.

And I'm not sure if it is something I did, the tool did, or a little bit of both, but I've run into a weird issue on my car now.

On the instrument cluster odometer screen where it would normally show additional info to scroll through (trip mileage, MPG, miles till empty, etc) as well as ambient air temp it now only shows the odometer and trip mileage, both of which are correct, so none of the other options. Also, it no longer shows the ambient air temp and my A/C wont kick on. Vents work fine, the compressor just doesn't kick on. The car runs fine, drives fine, in shot everything is exactly as it was except for what I've noted. I also noted that the live data is now weird as if it's not getting a consistent signal, both on the D8 as well as my blue driver scanner. No check engine light or anything like that. Only other issues on the car is an evap issue I haven't 100% confirmed yet, and the fuse for the radio is removed (was sending intermittent static then got to the point it sent out static even with radio off, as I don't really care about the radio I pulled the fuse, the static issue stopped, and I haven't gotten around to figuring out exactly what cause it. Note this didn't effect any of the menus or buttons on the dash in front of the radio, or the information screen above it).

I've tried retracing my steps on the scan tool and for the life of me, I can't recreate what I may have done to have caused that to happen or what setting I could try playing with to undo whatever got changed. I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it and no joy, it reset the clock/date to original as usual but didn't reset whatever got screwed up. My google diagnostics skills aren't shedding any light on this one. Is there anything specific this sounds like? Could the self diagnostic have blown a fuse/relay or something weird like that? Or does this sound like a trip to the dealer so they can hook up the fancy ford brain to it and figure out what the heck happened in a setting somewhere?
 
Last edited:

Handy Andy

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City
Grand Rapids
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MI
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2018 Ford Fiesta SE HB
#2
Sounds like a blown fuse, but as to which one? Couldn't tell.

However, the OEM data is stored in a module like SYNC which you will need to power it thru that Radio fuse you pulled due to noise you had. In doing that, most systems remain autonomous until they encounter a "probe" that might force a loss of stored data - that you may have found out inadvertently - while trying to remove a stored code .

The noise you hear from it, (your speakers) is from failing components and even loose wiring - for the EQ side, the SOUND button, is thru the Audio side of a early version of SYNC module, so the unit loops back to the Audio system as well as handles some of the MENU functions - so you may need to re-pull the battery and reinstall the radio Fuse then re-attach the battery to see if you can recover stored data from a module (older version of SYNC) that helps the Dashboard see your system as an SE trim line - not an S version.

Depending on the fuse you pulled, you may have forced AC off because of the "Tell-tale" that the AC switch uses - gets it's power from that portion of a console fuse that supplies power to the console including the Audio Head unit.
 
OP
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Messages
2
Likes
0
City
Belton
State
SC
Country
United States
What I Drive
2012 Ford Fiesta SE
Thread Starter #3
Sounds like a blown fuse, but as to which one? Couldn't tell.

However, the OEM data is stored in a module like SYNC which you will need to power it thru that Radio fuse you pulled due to noise you had. In doing that, most systems remain autonomous until they encounter a "probe" that might force a loss of stored data - that you may have found out inadvertently - while trying to remove a stored code .

The noise you hear from it, (your speakers) is from failing components and even loose wiring - for the EQ side, the SOUND button, is thru the Audio side of a early version of SYNC module, so the unit loops back to the Audio system as well as handles some of the MENU functions - so you may need to re-pull the battery and reinstall the radio Fuse then re-attach the battery to see if you can recover stored data from a module (older version of SYNC) that helps the Dashboard see your system as an SE trim line - not an S version.

Depending on the fuse you pulled, you may have forced AC off because of the "Tell-tale" that the AC switch uses - gets it's power from that portion of a console fuse that supplies power to the console including the Audio Head unit.
Thanks. I thought the fuse only did the radio itself since it's the only thing that was disabled when pulled, and it's been pulled for some time, all the info center and buttons functions work but I'll take a look there as I troubleshoot. Thanks for the info!
 


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