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- City
- Radcliff
- State
- KY
- Country
- United States
- What I Drive
- Ford Edge
Hello to all. I am working on my pastor's daughters 13 Fiesta with 1.6 J DOHC engine. The car had an overheat problem due to a faulty water pump and upon my inspection it also had a faulty AC compressor clutch. With that, I had her order the water pump, and new AC compressor kit with expansion valve, compressor and serpentine belt. This is the first time I've had the opportunity to work on a Fiesta and did not realize that I was going to have to remove the timing belt to replace the water pump. I'm of the mindset that if I'm going to touch it, I'm going to replace it (otherwise you can get someone else to work on it... timing belt and tensioner on the way). So.... in the process of trying to figure all this out without a manual (I don't buy manuals because if I did, I'd go broke), I've realized that this little Ford engine does not have a keyed crank snout for the timing belt gear OR the harmonic balancer. As a matter of fact, with the timing belt securely fastened to both cams and the timing tensioner, I can STILL rotate the crankshaft a few degrees until it begins to hit a valve or two.
Feeling confident that all that is figured out, I now need to make sure I have the torque figured out for the balancer bolt. I've seen a couple different methods, with both being significantly different. Probably the most frequent one is where an alignment tool is placed behind the balancer, and the balancer is positioned precisely into position based on the alignment tool. I have to assume that prior to doing this, one must ENSURE that the TDC tool is in place and the crank is resting on this tool to ensure the #1 cylinder is at TDC. Once that is verified, a BRAND NEW balancer bolt can be screwed in and tightened about 30 ft lbs... I say this so that we can remove our TDC tool and rotate our engine at least once or twice, re-inserting our TDC tool to validate our crank/cam alignment before we put our HERCULES torque on our bolt. Once we have validated our crank/cam relationship, it's time to remove the TDC tool/cam tool and install the locking tool for the flexplate. I can figure this part out (remove starter, insert lock tool.
Here is where I need the help from the community... I can't seem to find reliable info on what the torque value is. I see 74 foot lb frequently, but it's what comes after that I don't see consistently. Please help.
Thanks for any and all help in advance!
Feeling confident that all that is figured out, I now need to make sure I have the torque figured out for the balancer bolt. I've seen a couple different methods, with both being significantly different. Probably the most frequent one is where an alignment tool is placed behind the balancer, and the balancer is positioned precisely into position based on the alignment tool. I have to assume that prior to doing this, one must ENSURE that the TDC tool is in place and the crank is resting on this tool to ensure the #1 cylinder is at TDC. Once that is verified, a BRAND NEW balancer bolt can be screwed in and tightened about 30 ft lbs... I say this so that we can remove our TDC tool and rotate our engine at least once or twice, re-inserting our TDC tool to validate our crank/cam alignment before we put our HERCULES torque on our bolt. Once we have validated our crank/cam relationship, it's time to remove the TDC tool/cam tool and install the locking tool for the flexplate. I can figure this part out (remove starter, insert lock tool.
Here is where I need the help from the community... I can't seem to find reliable info on what the torque value is. I see 74 foot lb frequently, but it's what comes after that I don't see consistently. Please help.
Thanks for any and all help in advance!