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Approaching 100k miles. What maintenance should I be expecting and preparing for?

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#1
Currently sitting at 92k+ and putting together a list of cosmetic and suspension modifications, however I want to make sure I have the more important preventive maintenance done before I start spending money on arbitrary things. On my older vehicles I would have expected to do Timing Belt and Water pump @ 60k, plugs and wires at 75k, and trans and coolant flushes at 100k. Plugs and wires were recently done, but I've been told these PowerShift trans are a closed system? Also, being a timing chain, what is the expected service interval before they start to stretch or tensioners start deteriorating? I haven't noticed any excessive deflection in the suspension yet, but are the control arm bushings, end links, ball joints etc. known for failing at a certain point or is the suspension on these MK7's pretty solid? The hubs have an expected service life or just run 'em til they die? Appreciate the answers in advance.
 

Handy Andy

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#2
Aside from the tires, shocks and strut conditions - basically anything that goes bump in the night - or rolled over, the undercarriage could use a good going over - look for dents, pock marks left behind from rocks and debris you know, the stuff that DOES go Bump - can put your car out of shape. Cabling as well as Fuel and Brakes lines take a beating - inspect them as you can for nicks, puddles of fluid left behind in the garage from overnight parking - the location of the drips shows where damage can be found or at least inspected to find the reason.

Bearings and such will need to checked - and that's done by seeing how "hard it is to push" your car - the greater the effort, the more likely there's alignment or bearing - even braking issues.

Air Filter - Cabin Filter - wiper and cowl - all need to be inspected, cleaned - replace as necessary.

As far as fuel? Some owners keep the tanks topped off thru the year to keep the system from gathering humid air and forming condensation which with water and the alcohol used in todays fuel blends - can precipitate out into the bottom of the tank and build up a "gel" that can affect your fuel system performance - might want to take the older summer bland of fuel and drive it out add a can or two of a fuel system cleaner on your last summer blend fill up and drive out the older fuel and get the tank down - near empty to help the cleaner pull out the older fuel and it's stratified layers - and refill with fresh fuel to offset the seasonal change as needed to. This even helps the Emission system cycle thru and self-check itself.

You are what your car eats, so cheap gas does show up in ways most will notice - especially in the exhaust system smell, and your ability to drive - your cars' engine performs only as good as the fuels you use.

Go over the front of the car, look at the Condenser, Radiator assembly - look for impacts that can compromise the cooling system - bugs, rocks and even Pokemon cards - can block airflow - so look for plugging issues like even the Sodium Chlorides, Magnesium Chlorides - salt and road prep-deicers that have accumulated from last year, can do damage - so give the radiator and AC condenser units a good flush and floss. Flush out using water and a moderate spray for the rinse - run the AC for the Cooling fan. This action can pull thru and clear out any stuck debris to help improve the ventilation and remove "back pressure" or lack of air flow effect caused by plugging of the fins. Airflow is needed to pull-drain away, dissipate heat in this area - kinda important because if it's left like this - the air flow blocked in a section can corrode and become permanent leading to an overheating condition - not by poor radiator fluid, but by the plugging of the core itself - can't get rid of the heat.

It goes without saying but weather-stripping, wipers and even the finish takes a beating from the elements, so a good inspection and simple cleaning and wipe off of the "bath tub ring" the weather-stripping leaves as it does it's job - goes a long way - while you're there, oiling the hinges with some light oil works to help preserve the "door slam" feel

These are just some ideas - others have more - feel free to chime in and ask!

To me it should liek you know what needs to be done, or have done it yourself.

As with any car, your ability to trust in it' changes as it gets more miles under it - so you're correct to ask and to be honest, it's a scheduling issue - if you put a lot of miles on in one year and have already got 100K in less than 4 years, then the issue becomes more subjective - for it is a do this or potentially get stranded moment - but you know your car, you hear it start every day - you listen to it as you drive and feel the steering effort when you use it. So this becomes more of a well, you know it needs to be done. So he question is; not If, but When - it needs to be done or get stranded because you didn't.

If you're one of the older schooled drivers, you change your oil quite frequently - so you worked the ropes and the system and learned the process. I cannot say in good conscience to "put it off till tomorrow" - it wouldn't be right, but confidence in the vehicle and competence on your behalf of being prudent in servicing - you won't be wrong to think you can trust it to get you thru this next winter - but I'd look into either gathering up the materials and tools you'll need and schedule a time for the job to be done - and stick to that schedule.

I mean, it's an investment - so some DIY helps immensely in prolonging the life of the car, but if you wish, leave it to the professionals for the tougher jobs.
 
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scotman

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#3
Ok. What maintenance would i do on a 92,000 mile Fiesta?
First, determine the maintenance history and inspect the already done work for how well it was done!
Second, fill the tank with whatever amount of the highest quality of Premium fuel. Preferably at least 3/4 of a tank. All vital fluid levels should be up.
Third, plug in a generic scan tool and go for a mixed, stop and go and freeway drive of around 20 miles. Which is roughly an OBD trip drive cycle.
I would then look at the frequency monitors to see if any of them are slow or inactive.
At 92k, i would be paying close attention to the oxygen sensors. Map sensor and canister purge valve and the coolant reservoir.My experience with the Fiesta is these are the most potentially troublesome players.
After the drive back i would do a fuel economy calc'. If it is averaging around 36.? I would not change the O2's at this point. But the upstream O2 would be on my hit list of parts to replace.
It's not worth the wear and tear on the catalyst to let a $60. dollar oxygen sensor that is getting tired, speed up the death of a $600+ catalyst.
Everything else. Suspension, brakes, tie rods, ball joints, front hubs/bearings and drive axles would all be subject to wear inspection and replacement.
The upside to all that is its an opportunity to do upgrades in many components!
O.E. struts and shocks are commodity grade and generally worn out at 60k. A set of Bilstein B6 dampers would be a huge improvement over even new O.E. dampers!
The car will reveal what it needs if you inspect it properly. Then you can decide what you have the resources and desire to do to it.
I think that leaves enough to your discretion regarding how much "upgrading" your budget will tolerate. Good luck!
 
OP
Combatspace
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Thread Starter #4
While I do appreciate the white glove treatment as a new member, I would be remiss not to mention I have been a technician for 7 years and recently moved into service writing. As I was never a Ford tech, I don’t/didn’t have access to the dealer service manuals. That said, I am perfectly content doing any of the work mentioned to this point myself and have about 7k in tools to help me do it. Don’t be afraid to get technical with me. I have owned the car since new and know this vehicles entire service history. Currently there are no dtcs, the bearings make no noise as of yet, and so far everything appears solid. I’ll admit I was more asking if there are any “inexplicable” failures that seem to fall in the 75k to 100k mile range that I should be aware with this chassis so that I may address them before they inexplicably cause me a multi thousand dollar repair.
 

scotman

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#5
Immediately replace the coolant reservoir! Change the motor oil to a known quality of full synthetic. Make sure that the transmission (mt or dps6) has an adequate amount of the proper fluid. Otherwise, just scan the threads here and use your best judgement.
 
OP
Combatspace
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Thread Starter #6
Immediately replace the coolant reservoir! Change the motor oil to a known quality of full synthetic. Make sure that the transmission (mt or dps6) has an adequate amount of the proper fluid. Otherwise, just scan the threads here and use your best judgement.
Copy that. Here’s to another 100k hopefully…so long as the Powershift doesn’t grenade…
 

LionsTooth

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#7
Immediately replace the coolant reservoir! Change the motor oil to a known quality of full synthetic. Make sure that the transmission (mt or dps6) has an adequate amount of the proper fluid. Otherwise, just scan the threads here and use your best judgement.
I just did the reservoir...like you I have a ton wrenching experience but here ya go anyway.
 
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