Air / vacuum leak or throttle issue

[LucasFiesta2013]

There was no warning light, no error code. On cold engine on neutral gear is accelerates it self up to 1700 rpm and try to go down below 1000 and is start to shake.
Fuel pump is new, Ignition body, cables, spark plugs

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0bY9ioizmpMKHrODtPRPqBDjA

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0bqGxqM_1nSkIgG3Y5lg4p2Og
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ypsWfBVbeB6bMuXZUL9jaJkg
Fiesta 1.25 Petrol Zetec
I am a newb and I need your help.

Thanks All

 

[Handy Andy]

Unfortunately the Fiesta I've got is a 1.6L Naturally Aspirated.

The 2013 with a Z-Tech type motor - although similar symptoms, yes I can say to looking for a Vacuum leak is important.

On the Duratech I've got, the MAF/MAP sensor is combined into one - and it is located on the manifold.

Need better so we can sort out this problem...

Why? Duratech is this...

​

IF that is your motor - thats a 1.6L...
Does your 1.25L Ztech motor look more like this one?

This is from a earlier model...
If so, pay attention to the LABELED areas in the above...
Each line - goes to either a Valve and or a Gasket.
Valves use Gaskets keeps oil and air from leaking in or out of the motor where it shouldn't'.
,
IF the motor has got a LOT of miles on it or has been neglected lack of maintenance,
Then you need service...Either...
Do This repair and Replace yourself,
OR...
Get a shop to do this...
​

IN both motors, they use PCV, Automatic Transmissions use EGR, and MAP/MAF Sensors - so the above I see two different types but can be solved in the same ways...

There are several areas that can leak air - causing this condition not just with Throttle body and items listed labeled above, - but the PCV value and hose - and housing located behind the intake manifold (as well as a cracked or loose gasket in the manifold) - about where the Letters of PCV are at - is buried behind that valve and it too, has a housing and requires a gasket.

This can be several hours of effort if you're mechanically inclined, or several days if you've never worked on this type of motor or even know what as PCV valve is.

Some simple ways to troubleshoot is to use some simple "Carb Cleaner" and spray around those lines and gaskets - once the idle rises up and "stabilizes" you found an air leak. Keep doing it, for there may be more than one area - once the idle condition returns - just continue onto the next suspected area.

In those areas of better higher smoother idle, is where the carb cleaner gets sucked in and improves the Air/Fuel mixture to smooth out the idle from the LEAN condition you're experiencing.

Eventually the ECM will try to sort out the condition and post a code - or many codes - it's smart but not THAT smart...
The issue here is to nip this in the bud before the engine pukes out...and leaves you stranded

There lies the problem...

Do you do this yourself or get it fixed?

Let us know how you want to proceed.

 

[scotman]

I would definitely start with a close inspection of any hoses that are attached to the intake manifold. Then pcv hoses. Also make sure that the air intake tube clamps are tight.

 

[LucasFiesta2013]

@ All,
Thanks for the quick reply,I really appreciate

@Andy,
Please see attached photos, service done 2 weeks ago.

@Andy, Scotman
I will get it checked again.

 

[Handy Andy]

Serviced 2 weeks ago and now runs rough?

Ok, thanks for clearing that engine ID thingy up...

So if that's Zetech, I'd better recheck mine

​

Ouch, take it back to them. You may have a loose connector on the EVAP purge line - can stall the motor from not getting enough "vapors" from fuel tank to start to develop vacuum to check Gas tank for air leaks - that will set a code eventually.

Hey, while I'm thinking about this...

You have a diagnostic on your dash that can help...two actually.

One is the "Press and HOLD while starting" Reset button - but the other one deals with your Check Engine lite.

Set car to Ignition ON, don't START it - - let the lights turn on and the some will wink out - the ones I'm looking for is the Engine symbol - leave the ignition mode on - for at least 30 seconds - if the car can self-check - that engine symbol may flash. If it does, then it won't pass emissions test in it's current condition - which can help you in deciphering what's happening.

IF your EVAP system isn't working right, it makes the Engine light flash - still trying to run tests - if it can't pass all the self-diagnostics - it will set a code you can review thru your "Press and HOLD" diagnostic test on the Dashboard (your speedo, Tach ) - and uses the Odometer display to show codes when you set the mode and press that reset button (i believe) 6 or 7 times in the TEST mode - it will show pending codes.


Remember too, not all of us are on the same continent....

 

[WillieWapper]

Sorry for digging up this thread, but I have the exact same problem. Did you ever solve your problem and could share the fix?