IF the body is still good, a rebuilt 1.0L versus the 1.6L - the turbo side is going to cost more - considerably...
The 1.6L are more dime a dozen, not exactly a dime, but are far more plentiful and many of them are awaiting the chance at being used to extend the life of another body and frame.
But the 1.6L is EASIER to swap than the turbo - due to the 1.0L requires a lot more in plumbing and then becomes specific to that body and car.
The 1.6L because it's plentiful - can take to the new home because of required rework is less and much of the sensors used are compatible across several body styles - you just keep the original OEM PCM, Instrument Cluster and BCM and you're in like Flynn.
- ONLY if it is the SAME Engine as the one it had before.
- Cannot swap Turbo and NA (Normal Aspirated) the PCM's are programmed differently.
Due to the nature - your transmission can be kept but read another thread for the 1.0L might be only Manual - so of the motor arrives as an Automatic, you'll need to do some prep work.
Engine mounts are similar locations - so are the radiator and condenser - your totaled car is your template if you wish to swap out the useable parts from the damaged one.
Now, if you can get a totaled-out Fiesta that has little (to none - Rear ended sort of thing) engine damage but some miles then the swap to it (if it's a 1.6L - see above bulleted list) - is easier - the PCM, BCM and the Instrument Cluster can stay - the engine gets to the new home easily enough.
So can the 1.0L if you can find one in similar condition - but the issue of surviving that accident the other one had, might involve more turbo work than it's worth. You have to find a working 1.0L - far less choices too.
The biggest hints are - both cars can be different trim lines, but their engines HAVE TO BE THE SAME type for your original PCM, BCM and Instrument Cluster to wire up and work correctly - uses minimal changeover
As a basic reminder - it's a lot of work - not for the timid - attention to details are a must-have to pull this off.