Might need some more information, but if you are having battery drain problems - you're sure you don't have any accessories like a USB car charger still plugged on a live cigarette lighter?
- (OK, before people flame me, I know of others that install a plug live to the battery so the BCM doesn't shut down their battery supply. So it is more of a battery supply source for their phone or other device to keep it charged and alive as they may leave it in their vehicle for some time to keep the device active - like Car alarms, GPS tracking and Mapping systems along with a Wireless hub needed to help them do their jobs...)
So you may need to pull a red cover off the battery - it's the one with that flap you lift back to expose the positive post.
The cables are bolted to a buss - a distribution system, it's protected by that cover. The purpose? It - helps to mount a bunch of thicker cables to the battery without having to make a bigger mess of trying to keep the "octopus" of wires that the car needs power from the battery to work, from getting out of hand and looking more like moms spaghetti she serves you for dinner.
Look at this thread, you can use a circuit checker/tester to see if the drain is severe enough to light that flashlight bulb inside it. The brighter the light, the more current it is pulling - the bulb itself is fully lit at about 500mA - or about 1/2 Amp draw per hour - can drain that battery pretty flat in less than 48 hours.
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/body-control-modual.8227/post-20378
The process is pretty simple; make sure the car is "asleep" and keep the doors closed so no lights or awake moments - so you'll need to pop the hood - then let it sleep overnight. Don't pull the Ground cable if you can avoid it, as it can cause a reset condition.
Prep work and planning is important - so as you "prepare" look over and develop a plan to take apart the system so it can be inspected - keep things separate so no shorts - you may find the draw is caused by corrosion within the cables mounting location itself - making it possible for the power to leak out and find ground due to the corrosion path from a leaky battery and it found an acid laced path back to a return at the battery. OR when you replace the battery - it may not fix the draw - you may just need to clean up the connections so the system doesn't keep a watchdog applying or asking for power all the time cause the path is high-resistance and drops voltage for it's keep alive condition - that draw drops so it's kept alive due to it.
Remove the red cover - pull it up and off after you release a clip - it will show you that bracket.
On each terminal wire you test - try to clip the tester to that wires crimp, the copper to that metal terminal on that wire not the battery side - on the wire side, the side that is sending power to the circuit. That test tip - the other side or poker, can be on the Positive post bracket and the lead post of the battery - since they're soft - the tip can be held fast by the posts bracket and the clip to the wire you'll take off the terminal.
The clip will help you keep power and hold the tester in circuit to keep power flowing into the circuit.
- The purpose of this arrangement and process is to keep power draw that wire supplies, even in mA - applied to the circuit - once power gets interrupted the watchdog may awaken and apply power turning that light on - taking longer to finish the process of a simple check versus a keep alive condition because it's being tampered with.
You think this is complex, you should see how Ford does other systems - they make a battery cable to buss system on Focus and other vehicles mounted onto the batteries own box with a cover and case - making this simpler unbolt - to - bolt-on process for checking for draw far easier.
Use a 10mm ~ 8mm 1/4" drive socket set and an insulated handle or a simple set of metric size nut-drivers - to remove the bolt or nut on that cable so you can test the wire to that bolt it went to - so the tester is used to COMPLETE the circuit - and see if the lamp lites up.
Re-attach the cable back onto the bolt if the lamp doesn't light - that circuit is asleep and shouldn't be causing this draw,.
If more than one do this - make sure the doors are closed and keep the tester in-line for several minutes on that circuit to keep power applied and let the circuit consume some power and see if the light dims - or goes out - then the circuits watchdog process is done.
The cables lead to various systems so ABS is brakes, EPAS is your power steering - while MAIN goes to the fuse box - the draw on the cable tells you a general direction to take.
You can also use a tester to check the fuses in the main fuse box in the engine compartment.
You just place the clip on the positive post of the battery and the tip goes to the fuses socket pins both side need to be checked and look for the light. Be patient for you may interrupt a circuit needing constant power - this might awaken a watchdog in a module system so be ready to let it "sit" (keep it attached/hooked up to keep power applied) and let it time out. If the lamp doesn't go out in 10 minutes - that circuit may be your problem child. But locate the fuse by number on the underside of the box's cover and locate that fuse in your owners manual table for the system it powers - for if it's an ignition or fuel or any sort of switched system - it may signal you have broken wiring elsewhere for the system may be trying to power itself from a subsystem on battery so it is forced to stay awake and draw even more power - SYNC units with BT on can do this.
Don't make it too complex...
Enjoy your holiday, I've got some stuff going on here as well, but take your time and prep-work helps make the job easier.
