2014 fiesta 1.6 P219A Code

[party ford se]

2014 fiesta 1.6 non turbo here. And this P219A code will not go away.

I've replaced all of the spark plugs , upstream 02 sensor, and swapped fuel injectors with some used ones from the Junkyard (all oem parts) and the code still remains. It is very frustrating because I can't even complete all drive cycles/pass my smog out here in California. The car runs and idles great. I have no other engine codes.

Any suggestions are helpful. Thank you

 

[Handy Andy]

IT may range from a simple exhaust manifold leak onto a timing of the cam advance solenoids problem - you'll need a better diagnostic tool to help with this. This may indicate an issue with lack of, or loss of, enough oil pressure in one of the advance cams that when the solenoid engages to let the oil flow in, it may not be able to push the cam advance far enough to reduce the O2 oxide emissions.

I take it this is an Automatic?

 

[party ford se]

Yes. It is an automatic transmission.

If I had a timing or camshaft sensor issue, wouldn't I at least get a timing code or some other check engine light?

I will attempt the smoke test with my home made smoke tester next. Thank you

 

[Handy Andy]

The faults will eventually set another check engine light for other issues of performance - but right now it may be as for a flimsy seal to the catalyst onto a failed catalyst or a mechanical issue of vacuum leaks (or plugging by foreign debris) forcing the system to enrich/lean the mixture beyond a norm it once had - onto the others being more mechanical assembly and age related illnesses of bad seals and dented broken hardware - losing the seals one part once had (like EGR valve... Because it is an automatic) - you can easily see why this needs a more detailed diagnosis on the system that it once had worked fine until some type of failure.

 

[party ford se]

Hey. I replaced the upstream 02 sensor with a brand new one. The code has not shown up yet as stored but is still pending. I drove 250 miles and my engine light has not come back yet. (Longest it's been without setting the code).

However, I still have 3 emission monitors that are incomplete after the drive cycle. I am not sure why the monitors are not ready yet

 

[party ford se]

Also. I did a smoke test into my valve cover and and air intake hose (going to throttle didn't see any vacuum leaks

 

[Handy Andy]

OK, the "pending code" may drop off - remember it's testing the system, or continue to be present until those other emission and engine code-testing has passed.

Usually with Check Engine Light - usually means a serious malfunction is occurring or will soon occur.

However, it also does light when there are several systems affected by one simple output of a sensor - that if it can't correct the condition by adjustment of parameters within what it's allowed to change - that pending DTC will remain and in some instances will not clear.

The Light signals a choice you have to make in these cases - so if you need to see a mechanic about this, they may "mask" the code because of a condition that caused this was corrected but due to the complexity of the other systems affected by it - the mask turns off the light but leaves the DTC stored in memory.

Now, one thing I have not read here yet, is the conditions of the seals, if the exhaust manifold and the pipe seal to the cat were changed.

If they were damaged but weren't changed (reused) or not using the correct type - this also can cause a lean condition because of the type of seal breakdown and it's location - can also become a dangerous exhaust leak condition of monoxide poisoning caused by the leak so close to the heater and blower - intake cowl - can suck in exhaust fumes and make the driver suffer from poisoning caused by that leak. This may be why that light is on, a leak in the system - it can't tell you more than than that, just that it can be from something that can cause another condition later in the vehicles service life.

Something as simple as a motor mount that is causing the motor to shift on the other mounts altering it's aspect to the exhaust system and it's piping can cause this condition (pulling away or torquing the pipe, causing it to leak at a given moment under this high-torqued moment) - onto other things dealing with exhaust and intake issues and even EGR - but it's not "smart enough" to know what to display - only that something is wrong and if this doesn't clear on it's own, further diagnosis is needed and choices have to be made. Like, if it's too costly to repair due to a small aspect (...). That's where the mechanics tell you it's this price to fix-it or leave it alone and deal with it and maybe it will clear attitude

 

[party ford se]

Thanks very much for your response. I noticed the exhaust had been welded around the resonator and CAT converter area but a test of soapy water confirmed there were no leaks. However, I sprayed the exhaust manifold area where the gasket sits and saw it bubbling up just a tiny but. I replaced the exhaust manifold gasket with a fel pro one. Re-did the spray test and could not see any more bubbling.

I am hoping this will solve the issue but I am skeptical because one thing I forgot to mention is that the bank 1 sensor 1 voltage is still stuck rich (around 0.93-0.99 volts). The voltage did not oscillate before or after replacing the exhaust manifold which surprised me. I tried unplugging my battery to reset my fuel trims/ 02 sensor data but the sensor is still stuck rich.

I refuse to throw in the towel because I don't know any trustworthy mechanics to properly diagnose the issue.

 

[Handy Andy]

bank 1 sensor 1 voltage is still stuck rich (around 0.93-0.99 volts).

Oh, OK, this is something different - injectors OK?

Why do I ask, well, did any plugs appear carboned or carbon-oil fouled in any sort of indication?

This may mean something even as odd as the wiring and their ground points.

In relation to the plugs, since you're mentioning "rich" - how is the PCV valve, it's hose and the intake manifold doing?

Didn't know if you took it off and inspected the intake. Plugged IMAPT - the 4-wire connector that uses a #15 ~ #20 Torx driver as a hold down bolt on the intake - if that got carboned up?

Remember what I said earlier - because we may be chasing ghosts - and is why I made that comment about the mechanics, as-in, not wanting to track this down due to the level of emissions and the sheer amount of labor needed to check and test the smaller stuff to get to the OEM levels - which may even be something like the plugging of the oil-drain ports on the the cams slowing down their drain or fill rates to cause this condition.

 

[party ford se]

Thanks for taking the time to give feedback. The code returned even after replacing the exhaust manifold gasket.

The spark plugs looked to be normal for their age. And I didn't notice any individual spark plug that looked significantly different from the others. They all looked evenly worn. They didn't look too old and they probably still had plenty of life left on them. I replaced them with OEM spark plugs.

In addition, I already replaced the injectors with some used OEM ones from the Junkyard but it made no difference.

I should also say. When I replaced the transmission dual clutch powershift with an OEM kit, one of the TCM connectors was broken. I had to use 2 flathead screwdrivers to pry the connector off and I forced the connector back on when I reinstalled it. It is not sitting completely flush to the TCM. There is about a 1/4-1/2" of an inch gap in order for the TCM connector to be completely flush with the TCM.

However the car shifts beautifully after the clutch job and OEM relearn procedure. And I have 0 codes in the TCM after driving for 4 months.

Would this have the due with this P219A code I have in the Engine control module?

Also, the pcv valve appears to work fine. I know there are many complaints that if the pcv valve is bad that the car will stall after refueling my gas tank. That has never happened to me

If I were to remove the intake manifold, what should I look out for during the repair that can fix this issue.

Thank you

 

[Handy Andy]

You may not need to remove the manifold, but verify it's simply not leaking or has issues with cam to belt timing operation - that takes a little more work and a Diagnostic tool capable to test the emissions and sensors at part of it's functions to know that the timing of these elements and their operation are correct.

This is why we tend to think were looking for "ghosts". No one wants to drive around for hours in someone elses car and not get paid the big buck$ they can get for service-shop rates - just to find profiles that may or may not develop into a story-book ending.

The PCV valve is the only larger hose in the intake that you can even get at to check - the others are a nylon-based (rigid), the upper PCV, EVAP and rubber Brake Booster (Idle Quality Regulator valve IAQ) hoses you can see if they are operational by donig some simple tests by disconnecting them at a junction and plugging their port to test for vacuum seal.

• - the IAQ one you simply pull the hose off that goes to the snorkel by the Air cleaner - and plug it with your thumb - it you can feel it draw a vacuum thru the hose, then that regulator can be regarded working and OK.
• the PCV hose itself uses both that upper hose and the intake (lower) one to do it's job, using Manifold vacuum to pull fumes thru; from the air-cleaner box into the upper valve cover and crankcase out into the intake thru its vacuum and then gets re-burned in the motor.
  • The PCV valve uses the manifold vacuum - but the hose itself is a molded rubber hose, and is exposed to oil and high-vacuum all the time - which by age alone can weaken it. The oils and vacuum can cause the hose to collapse on itself (pinch shut) and won't pull vacuum to purge the system - which can generate several conditions or poor vacuum regulation and make the IMAPT sensor work overtime and can set the light that way but with different codes.

So the 219A code is telling us something is going on at the exhaust - which means from the muffler back thru those sensors into the exhaust manifold - so there may be several air leaks that when the motor decelerates - the air gets drawn in from the higher vacuum caused by the throttle getting shut off closed.

That throttle going shut forces a rich condition so it pulls in air from any place it can; meaning PCV, EVAP and IAQ which are orifices so their volume is limited. Where else? Exhaust manfold and the exhaust system - the Exhaust cam is set up to advance so it can use this to help the exhaust side of the motor to pull in air to lean out the chamber.

The only other way to get air is by drafting it in thru the open muffler tailpipe - so it sucks in the older exhaust and it's air - so if it's seeing lean, have that muffler checked and inspected before you go too far and place too much focus on the intake.

• for if it ever got plugged during winter or got struck by road debris or backed into by a parking chock - the pipe can snap at a crease and begin to leak.

Best guesses - for the exhaust system on a car is the most vulnerable and problematic as they age - meaning: Welds can break or worse, crack thru the heat-to-cool cycles - does not provide the best seal for long-term.

Many of the older tailpipes did this, but the newer ones use a flange and flare seat on a seal which alows for flexing - again...a best guess.

 

[party ford se]

Hey, thank you for the detailed response.

After the evap purge valve checked out to be ok. I discovered 3 more exhaust leaks (using a shop vacuum and pressurizing it thru the exhaust pipe). There were 4 exhaust leaks total but i was able to fix one buy applying exhaust putty. There are still 2 very small exhaust leaks at the manifold even after replacing the exhaust manifold gasket. And one large one at the exhaust flange gasket that you mentioned. I already ordered the new flange gasket and am waiting on it to arrive.

I am starting to think that the e manifold is warped due to someone previously welding it. I tightened the nuts from the inside out and they were properly tightened. I will attempt to reseal everything with proper gaskets but if they still leak. I will probably buy a cheap catalytic converter to fix all of the exhaust leaks.

My question is. Will fixing the exhaust leaks cause my upstream 02 sensor to finally stop reading rich and get rid of these p0420 and p219a codes? I will keep you updated with the repairs. Thanks again!