2013 1.6 twin clutch not starting in first

[tabijan]

Occasionally it feels like this twin clutch doesn’t set off in first from warm restart. Start engine, shift to D, shudder and low power like a manual in 3rd gear, shift to P, back to D then it’s fine. Drives normally otherwise. Well, normal for what it is. Is this mechanical wear or in need of a flash or … ?

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles

 

[tabijan]

Ugh! Now it hit going in reverse up a moderately steep driveway. I don’t think it has multiple gears in reverse. Maybe the clutch isn’t engaging fully but the engine doesn’t over rev. Can something be preventing the car from moving? Parking pawl isn’t disengaging? Shifting to P then to R fixes it.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles

 

[Handy Andy]

If this is the first time (per service ok? Not trying to insult you) you've even had issues with the shifting and transmission, it's time for a trip to a service shop.

Why? The transmission uses actuators, which are like clutches in a manual transmission but Fiestas (and several other models from Ford - including Focus) use these as servos to make the gears shift and to apply the pressures to make them act a lot like 5 or 6 speed manual transmissions and yet drive like automatics - because they are electronically controlled.

When this "grab" or "Slip" condition occurs, the actuators have reached their maximum life expectancy and need replacement.

You might be able to do this yourself - but it requires an approach to this as a Do-It-Yourself'er and is not for the timid.

 

[tabijan]

I don’t know the history of the car before 70k miles. I changed Motorcraft spec fluid with Motorcraft at 120-125k. This behavior is new within the last couple of weeks and only a handful of times so far. No generic powertrain codes. I don’t have Forscan to go deeper.

I’ve replaced solenoids on the topside of an AT valve body if that’s an indication of ability.

We have a letter from Ford regarding a TCM warranty but there’s no CEL which the letter implies is the basis of 10/150 extended coverage. And we’re past 10 years from warranty date.

I’ll look up replacing actuators but please direct me to relevant information if you know where it is.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles

 

[Handy Andy]

Since you have known of the warranty coverage, then it's best to speak with the dealership you use if you need major service done to your car.

The most relevant information can be found in some of our forums here as part of a search - but the specifics of each type of claim makes it more of the approach of a one-to-one basis than a "Global" matter that people know about but must show just cause for work to be performed. That means CEL / DTC codes. And in a specific order of fail so the codes can leave a trail of bread crumbs.

So if you wish to skip that hassle and just preserve that which you have, then replacing actuators by yourself may be the best route to take, but it is requiring your knowledge of operation; of the role the actuators play in the transmission.

So tools, work prep and cleaning the area so the mating surfaces are like new so the OEM integrity of the transmission can be maintained are the most important areas to focus on to keep the system working.

IF you have a local autoparts store, they may offer a means to cross reference other suppliers - even have them pull the part on their shelves and inspecting - checking with them may help direct you to help you find the actuators or at least a means to provide a searchable part number for non-OEM suppliers if you wish to go that route.

So the best advice I can give you is to search for YT vids on (I don't really recommend other places due to the amount of ads and site tracking data unless you want them to help you locate it) - Ford Fiesta Transmission Actuators. The process is pretty simple, but you'll also have to make sure the parts dropped out are removed and have not damaged the housings (stripped bolts or prying parts off deforming the housing) and the new ones swapped in are clean and the mounting / mating surfaces are clean and free of dust dirt and debris that the older actuators can leave inside the housing - just use a simple air-jet nozzle to clear out the loose dirt and media so it can be inspected and burnished clean to make sure the seal between the actuator and the transmission housing - are good and square so the seal and integrity can be maintained. Doing things right goes a long way in making this a simpler repair versus finding out you need major service and or replacement of the whole transmission. Catching this quirky action early and fixing it helps keep the system working..

The above stuff is geared towards common sense thinking and attention to the details and the inspection of the system - it's important that wiring is secured and make sure connections are clean and tight - this is the best I can do on this end of the keyboard - any effort in keeping on top of the errant behavior of parts goes a long way is keeping the OEM-level of performance going.

The best advice I can give in all of the above is how to approach the problem - do the research right down to holding the part in your hand and see how it works and know how it mounts to the housing.

IT may be best - to source the parts locally - keep in touch with them. Then those helping you can offer their advice in developing a plan as well as a means to keep providing support for you after the service. That kind of backing in support and help in resources goes a lot farther than visiting a dealership for a one shot deal and, after paying the bill - being left to fend for yourself and having little to work with later on in keeping your car running.

 

[tabijan]

Thanks!

Theres a dealer nearby but it’s never been there. PO from 70K miles might have taken it in for door lock recall but he has mechanic friends who took care of it.

1. Odd that upper actuator for forward gears and lower actuator for reverse experienced hiccups a week apart.. There might be more going on.

2. Odd that there isn’t a seal between the actuator and transmission case. Or is there?

3. It seems they use a splined tool to turn the driven part alternately CW and CCW while spraying cleaner to work it free. I don’t get the business of counting 14 turns and whether the driven part self-returns. Seems in videos they caution to not force the driven part beyond CCW resistance then once clean it will self-return to rest fully CW.

Sixto
2013 SE 1.6 hatchback 134K miles

 

[Handy Andy]

That is where the help of the locals can come in.

As you can see the "turns" issue is a type of tensioning process - but is it necessary? Your local parts stores and your mechanic can help with this.

The mating surfaces are not "truly sealed" but they have to handle torque so the mating surfaces can't be bent or softened by trying to ream out clearance or using extreme methods of washing of the inside areas the actuators use - you don't want the part twisting in it's holster or unable to stay seated because of elongated holes - which you may need to look for. so the actuator rests on the flanges it does so it can bear that load as the TCM works the shifting process. .

Part of the recall issue was from the shifting and the adaptation that takes places from the TCM - the adapt part can place a lot of torque on the parts like the actuators - shortening their life as well as the housing they rest in. It can bend the bolts they use to hold them in place - which elongates the mounting holes - and may compromise the transmission housing.