2011 fiesta stereo system has no power

[Foon]

I recently bought my fiesta used and have been having off and on trouble with the whole center system.

It often shuts off for weeks at a time. Nothing on the screen, no backlight on the buttons, and the usb, aux input, and the 12v will get no power coming out.

It's completely random and it will work for weeks and then shut off for an only an hour or it will go for weeks.

I have tried holding the seek and power button down, replacing fuses, and even pulling off the front panel to unplug the radio it self. Nothing has worked.

I'm going to attempt disconnecting the battery for a while but if any of you have any suggestions please give them.

I have considered buying a whole after market replacement system but since this seems like a power issue and not the radio it self I don't want to drop 300 dollars to solve nothing.

Any suggestions will be appreciated thank you

 

[LionsTooth]

Sounds like a ground issue. Let us know how the battery disconnect works out. Of course, if you get an aftermarket unit the service folks will have to get it working, right? They would likely find the problem for you in the install.

 

[Foon]

Ya I was planning on doing the install my self but if the battery disconnect doesn't work I may just need to spend the money and take it to a dealership

 

[Handy Andy]

Well, since the harness that feeds the Radio/Sync center is the same one - Look for "stuck" buttons.

Seriously!

If the power knob is got a bad press on/off button - only time gives it the chance to work again.

Did you check - under your glovebox, for a SYNC unit?

IF you get messages, able to change the clock and such stuff - then SYNC module located under the glovebox, does communicate - so you don't have to mess around with it. But if MENU and other functions to it don't work, observe the display, press Info or your top display buttons on the front top display, along the side of the information Control console (your display) on while the engine is running - can you use any features on it turn it on or off?

IF you can change display info or use those buttons - That means there is communication to it.

This helps isolate WHERE that communication problem is - the more places that HAVE communication - helps you isolate the cable or section of your front console - that needs work - else if sections DO work, then there's no need to fix THAT part of it. (IF it works don't fix it)

Now, if you have some inclination to do this, you can remove that front "knob/keyboard" assembly and see if one of those connectors is not seated behind that panel PREVENTING you from even turning it on.

There are several YT vids on how to take the front console apart, might want to view those so that when you get the time to do the job, it will go a lot faster.

The panel is a polled (Matrixed) keyboard for "talking to" SYNC - uses a serial data conversion to send data to the Sync and Sync then operates the radio - the radio itself is a "Dummy head" only holds the amplifier, tuning and CD player and does the AUX / SAT patch in (Line level in) so it does the amplifying EQ and all the stuff Radios do, only being a Headless unit, thru the SYNC module that also communicates to everything else including your DASHBOARD.

You have to peel an onion of trim (layers interlock together) to obtain access to the front panels keyboard and even verify the connector and the connector jumper from it to the MAIN center console communication buss is fully seated. You start at the top - to expose the display head and you'll find the screws (mm-Sized Nut driver types) which then loosesn the hold of the front bulkhead and then a gentle pry tug to release the trim tabs will allow you access to that panel and check those connectors and jumper.

I'm thinking if someone ahead of you (dealer or former owner) pulled off that panel a little too far away from the console, they could easily have tugged or pulled apart several jumpers.

Now, the main connector to the front panel has several branches if one of them is not fully seated - that section of the center console won't work.

Main "keypad" panel is one of them, includes a special cable that wires into the harness to send data to the SYNC unit. It's that cable, that may have the issues. I've had a friend recently talk about how they got mad and smashed the center console and wound up with a very expensive repair just to fix that front keyboard. If that cable is bad or crushed, the keyboard may be just fine, the communication cable is bad.

The biggest clue is that you can use the keyboard, once it wakes up - tells me that the keyboard is awaiting input - but if the Cable is not fully seated or shorted, it thinks a key is stuck, or just sitting there (Wow Exciting it says... - it responds with - ... nothing...) So perhaps not all is lost.

 

[Foon]

Well, since the harness that feeds the Radio/Sync center is the same one - Look for "stuck" buttons.

Seriously!

If the power knob is got a bad press on/off button - only time gives it the chance to work again.

Did you check - under your glovebox, for a SYNC unit?

IF you get messages, able to change the clock and such stuff - then SYNC module located under the glovebox, does communicate - so you don't have to mess around with it. But if MENU and other functions to it don't work, observe the display, press Info or your top display buttons on the front top display, along the side of the information Control console (your display) on while the engine is running - can you use any features on it turn it on or off?

IF you can change display info or use those buttons - That means there is communication to it.

This helps isolate WHERE that communication problem is - the more places that HAVE communication - helps you isolate the cable or section of your front console - that needs work - else if sections DO work, then there's no need to fix THAT part of it. (IF it works don't fix it)

Now, if you have some inclination to do this, you can remove that front "knob/keyboard" assembly and see if one of those connectors is not seated behind that panel PREVENTING you from even turning it on.

There are several YT vids on how to take the front console apart, might want to view those so that when you get the time to do the job, it will go a lot faster.

The panel is a polled (Matrixed) keyboard for "talking to" SYNC - uses a serial data conversion to send data to the Sync and Sync then operates the radio - the radio itself is a "Dummy head" only holds the amplifier, tuning and CD player and does the AUX / SAT patch in (Line level in) so it does the amplifying EQ and all the stuff Radios do, only being a Headless unit, thru the SYNC module that also communicates to everything else including your DASHBOARD.

You have to peel an onion of trim (layers interlock together) to obtain access to the front panels keyboard and even verify the connector and the connector jumper from it to the MAIN center console communication buss is fully seated. You start at the top - to expose the display head and you'll find the screws (mm-Sized Nut driver types) which then loosesn the hold of the front bulkhead and then a gentle pry tug to release the trim tabs will allow you access to that panel and check those connectors and jumper.

I'm thinking if someone ahead of you (dealer or former owner) pulled off that panel a little too far away from the console, they could easily have tugged or pulled apart several jumpers.

Now, the main connector to the front panel has several branches if one of them is not fully seated - that section of the center console won't work.

Main "keypad" panel is one of them, includes a special cable that wires into the harness to send data to the SYNC unit. It's that cable, that may have the issues. I've had a friend recently talk about how they got mad and smashed the center console and wound up with a very expensive repair just to fix that front keyboard. If that cable is bad or crushed, the keyboard may be just fine, the communication cable is bad.

The biggest clue is that you can use the keyboard, once it wakes up - tells me that the keyboard is awaiting input - but if the Cable is not fully seated or shorted, it thinks a key is stuck, or just sitting there (Wow Exciting it says... - it responds with - ... nothing...) So perhaps not all is lost.

Hi that's alot of words that I don't understand. But at the moment if you look at the picture my display isn't even coming on its just a black screen so I'm pretty sure my hole entertainment system is just not getting any power. (The usb and 12v don't seem to charge anything either)

 

[Foon]

Sounds like a ground issue. Let us know how the battery disconnect works out. Of course, if you get an aftermarket unit the service folks will have to get it working, right? They would likely find the problem for you in the install.

Update leaving the battery disconnected for a few hours did not solve the issue

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok!

So that leaves - hmmm... Ok, you know that you did check fuses...

When you originally checked fuses, did you find any that were blown and had to replace?

Because, if fuse was replaced, the power wire may have blown open at a particular spot - and when your radio comes on, is from the movement of the harness to press the wires' open spot - closed.

Wonder if you can adjust heater, vents and if that is good, does the Door Lock and 4-Way flasher work?

The point I'm trying to get at here is when the radio comes on, it works - but does it mean you have to set the air Climate control to any particular spot? This too can be a clue as to why the intermittent problem - the door mechanism is moving the wire harness, or when the Climate control system is not set just right - the cable is pinched to cut off the keypad controls.

Here's a little backstory, had to chase down a quirky click-click noise after getting car back from Servicing - had a constant noise all speeds, no matter what I do - until I shut off the cars' ignition.

I found it to be a goofy position sensor ... just had to remove it, - apply power to climate control to move the position rotor to a spot on the controller, then reset the controller back to "O" (Off) position and watched this sensor and rotor operate - did this several times to find it's "Parked" position then re-seated the sensor back in to the correctly repositioned "cog" and now the heater and climate work fine.

Here's a internal view from the Accelerator pedal - upwards into the Center Console - behind the dash - view.

​

This is why I think there may be more of a loose wire or connector then a bad keypad, but if the keypad is bad, no matter what it will cost you to replace the unit as one-whole piece. You have nothing to lose by trying to find the harnesses and look for loose connectors - the worse case scenario is to fix the whole mess with a new dash - unless the problem is taken care of ...

You did say...

but since this seems like a power issue and not the radio it self I don't want to drop 300 dollars to solve nothing.

So then; what are your other options?

 

[lilbleh]

It is most likely a bad connection on the on/off power button. You need to take out the whole thing if you wanted to try spraying it with contact cleaner. If nothing works then the best thing is to replace it.

 

[bonovasitch]

Did you find a solution? My 2011 Fiesta just started exhibiting the same issue. The first time, about a month ago, it was quite brief so I didn't think much of it. Then, it happened yesterday again.
I checked any fuses relevant to the radio and they looked fine.

 

[Handy Andy]

They may "look fine" but were you able to test to see if current can go thru them?

Better way to do that is to keep the Fuse in place, but use a circuit tester "probe" to see if both sides of the Fuse have power.

Every fuse in your car is a point to "Break" the power flow thru a circuit safely before something else burns up from a short that forms in it.

When a Fuse is good, you'd see power thru the tester on both sides from the tip of the tester thru to it's clippy that goes to ground - completes the circuit and lights the bulb.

If it doesn't - one side lights up but the other doesn't - that fuse is bad.

IF both sides don't light the tester, then you have to dig deeper to find out why it is not getting power, could be from a relay that is burned. The contacts care wearing out - burning up or can complete the enagement - caused by heat and deformed plastic = can't make the best contact until something else "pushes" it over the edge to connect power and complete the circuit.

Look at This thread...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/help.8317/post-21317

And this one (or two) showing what a simple Circuit tester looks like...don't need to disconnect the battery - it helps power the tester so you can find the fault. The clip is to a good ground metal or bolt - the tip goes to the fuses and with it's size, can also probe the connector to find voltages...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/body-control-modual.8227/post-20368
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/windshield-washer-issue.7786/post-25911