2011 Fiesta SES chassis and body changes.

[scotman]

I will document most of the modifications to a 2011 hatchback that i purchased in a damaged condition with the intention of making into a modern version of an obscure and impractical but attractive body style called "Jolly d'plage" or "joker of the beach". I like to think of it as being less than a "real" car but more than a golf cart. I proposed it to a family friend who is retiring to Florida in two years. She is paying for the car and some specific features. I get to keep the fixtures, patterns,special tooling and methodology notes. Roughly speaking, it's a contract job with the bonus of me being able to create a second one for myself later!
The first two "bolt on" items are a Pierce 6 point chassis brace and an AWR racing parts lower transaxle mount #AWR-2201DCT with 88 durometer bushings I am trying to find and use parts that are available in the normal aftermarket as much as possible. Because the amount of custom fabrication on this car is really challenging to the goal of getting it completed and sorted out within a specific timeline.

 

[LionsTooth]

I will document most of the modifications to a 2011 hatchback that i purchased in a damaged condition with the intention of making into a modern version of an obscure and impractical but attractive body style for use in sub tropical regions. I like to think of it as being less than a "real" car but more than a golf cart. I proposed it to a family friend who is retiring to Florida in two years. She is paying for the car and some specific features. I get to keep the fixtures, patterns,special tooling and methodology notes. Roughly speaking, it's a contract job with the bonus of me being able to create a second one for myself later!
The first two "bolt on" items are a Pierce 6 point chassis brace and an AWR racing parts lower rear transaxle mount #AWR-2201DCT with 88 durometer bushings I am trying to find and use parts that are available in the normal aftermarket as much as possible. Because the amount of custom fabrication on this car is really challenging to the goal of getting it completed and sorted out within a specific timeline.

Love this project!

 

[sundaynightcoffee]

What kind of changes are you looking to do on the body? Are you just tightening up most of the car and getting it to working order since its damaged? What are you looking as an end game with the project?

 

[scotman]

What kind of changes are you looking to do on the body? Are you just tightening up most of the car and getting it to working order since its damaged? What are you looking as an end game with the project?

A modern version of one of these.

 

[scotman]

This thread is not going to be an intensive "step by step" it would be like a book if i spent that kind of time on it. The build itself is very involved. I am at step 114 in completing just one sill assembly. And i have not yet installed the mirrors, step facing materials or the interior trim panels! Nor will i take the time to document the fixtures I created to hold the cut down doors in position to fabricate them into a single side sill. The first set is of the plug and finish process to remove the unneeded rear door handles. A job complicated by the styling line that runs directly through the door pull.
The binder i am creating as my "shop manual" is at 146 pages now. This is my reference guide for what I have done, or would have to do in proper sequence on the next one. Because this is the "first one" i have to learn what the proper method is. Or at least the way that works.

 

[LionsTooth]

This thread is not going to be an intensive "step by step" it would be like a book if i spent that kind of time on it. The build itself is very involved. I am at step 114 in completing just one sill assembly. And i have not yet installed the mirrors step facing materials or the interior trim panels! Nor will i take the time to document the fixtures I created to hold the cut down doors in position to fabricate them into a single side sill. The first set is of the plug and finish process to remove the unneeded rear door handles. A job complicated by the styling line that runs directly through the door pull.
The binder i am creating as my "shop manual" is at 146 pages now. This is my reference guide for what I have done, or would have to do in proper sequence on the next one. Because this is the "first one" i have to learn what the proper method is. Or at least the way that works.

I did a ground-up restoration on an Isetta back in the late-80s and I did the same thing....all handwritten. But the next one I did took half as long because I had my "book." A LOT of hand drawings and sketches (pre-digital cameras).

 

[scotman]

Yes! I know what you are talking about. I went to votech with a guy who had traded his late grandfather's Buick Electra for an Isetta and a 69 Mercury Montego convertible. That was in the late 70's. So much cool stuff was practically given away!
Im slowly loading images. Because they are loading slowly. Data speed must be affected by the deep cold.(sarc)
I have plenty of auto body repair and paint experience. But I have not deconstructed a car into something much different before other than doing a fiberglass tub onto a vw chassis. I enjoyed doing that one!

 

[scotman]

I now have the subject Fiesta on the hoist. I haven't received the AWR mount yet. But i am going to get started on the 6 point brace install.
Thanks to the china virus shutdown and the delays in shipping, this project has been in slow motion. It feels good to be finally installing parts onto the car. Our big snowstorm has delayed me getting into the shop today. Fiesta thawed and rinsed off.

A view of the repair area and the new tailpan..the accident destroyed the hatch lid, both taillights, the bumper cover and crash beam and the tailpan.
The car was still dripping heavily, so i focused on soaking bolts with penetrating oil and called it a night. I will have some extra hands tomorrow!

 

[scotman]

I have hit a bump! As i was breaking subframe bolts loose with a breaker bar the left middle bolt, the one that is super critical because it threads into the frame rail, i felt the captured nut break loose. Now i have to figure out a way to repair the thing. I have removed and installed fiesta subframes about ten times. This is the first time I broke a fastenser .
I was determined to get the bolts out gently and then wirebrush each bolt one at at time, oil it and run it in and out .a few times. Then brace the subframe and pull all 6 bolts.
Now i have to get a hole saw and create an access hole.
I will have to weld a cover over the opening when im done. The steel in this area is incredibly tough to cut. Sorry for the delays.

 

[scotman]

Update bump. I am still waiting for the AWR transmission mount. I have learned that the mount has been shipped. Planning to install it asap.

 

[Handy Andy]

This reminds me to get underneath mine this year when the weather improves to back out and torque/reseat some bolts in that back frame mess you're dealing within - I too am working on some ideas for back there - watching this with interest...

 

[scotman]

The mount finally arrived! The weekend is open to get it installed.

 

[econoboxrocks]

Interesting stuff about the Jolly. https://www.theglampad.com/2013/08/feeling-jolly.html

I was always partial to Mr. Roarke's car.


Tattoo had one, too.


Looks like the show is getting a reboot. https://variety.com/2020/tv/news/fantasy-island-reboot-fox-1234853913/
I'd give it a shot, just for the nostalgia factor.

 

[scotman]

Chrysler really scored big with that one! They got almost exclusive exposure with no other brands of vehicles overshadowing that custom Volare'.
It was always shown in a very positive way. Nobody was shooting up heroin in the back seat or running over their bitchy ex wife with it.
I believe that this one went on the auction block a few years ago. I don't recall what price it brought.

 

[FiEscort]

The mount finally arrived! The weekend is open to get it installed. View attachment 4694

You finally got it. Looking forward to your review of the 88 durometer

 

[scotman]

Ok! You will need an E12 type socket of 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive. It doesn't have to be a deep style, thats just what I found first.
And definitely need some penetrating oil and a wire brush.

Soak the bolts with a shot of penetrant and place a floor jack under the oilpan and edge of the transaxle that mates to the engine, pump it up just enough to get the load off the lower mount.
This should make bolt removal pretty easy.
Then, with the drivetrain supported, break both bolts loose. Remove the bolt from the small diameter bushing shell first, the old mount will swing downward.
The large diameter bushing end is somewhat captured in its bracket.
The large end of the new mount is what gets bolted in first.
Get the bolts out and give them a good wire brushing and coat them with grease or anti seize compound as you prefer.
Once the bolts are lubed up ,just reinstall them. The large diameter bushing first loosely and then push the small diameter end into place and wiggle the bolt through until it starts to hit threads.
My FiST lower mount was around 50 ft lbs of tq. I see a couple of people who posted that its 60 ft lbs. I will look into the torque spec tomorrow. Tonight I just used the German tq value of gutentight.
I consider this install a win. Because I didn't break anything in the process of getting the part installed.

 

[econoboxrocks]

Looking forward to your driving impressions.

 

[scotman]

It might be a month before I can do more than a very low speed TD. I have started and moved the car around the parking lot. It feels much tighter upon initial engagement! There is a bit of vibration at idle that can be felt through the steering wheel. Nothing objectionable, even compared to the mounts in my m/t Fiesta's. I feel satisfied with what I have experienced so far.
Right now I have the front bumper cover and headlights removed. The front fenders will have to come off to do the first dry fit of the sill assemblies. Things are going to get a bit weird before I can clip the roof structure away. I will find out what I can deactivate in the way of doors locking upon engagement of drive. Dome lamp controls, anti theft and door ajar warnings through FORSCAN .
I guess that you describe it as "debuilding"if i am subtracting functions.
The airbags being gone from the roof and seats is not a very difficult trick. They are monitored by resistance value. I am keeping the driver and front passenger bags and the knee bags.
So, compared to the vintage Fiat 500 jolly, this car will be a modern car with modern features and seatbelts. It also will have forward LED strobes in the headlamp capsules and reverse warning beeper to get it Low speed vehicle (aka, LSV) certification for gated communities.
The other vintage feature that the Fiesta will absolutely NOT have is wicker seats. My family friend, who is buying this creation, initially thought that was part of the deal. I put my foot down regarding the wisdom of "front porch style furniture" as automotive seats! The stock seats are going to a local auto trim shop for new white naugahyde vinyl upholstery. The floor covering is going to be a type of vinyl mat that is used in pickup trucks and commercial vans.
A quick update. Work has continued in May i welded the rear shock tower braces into the body shell. There are also a pair of fitted plates on the other side of the towers. Those are bolted through the holes that were indexed in these images.
I have to get a few images of the upper strut bar that will triangulate the rear shock towers and allow me to finally get rid of the metal roof.
The sills are completed minus the right side interior trim panel. I cracked the right rear of it trying to cut it back during the second test fit. So, back to junk yard for another trim panel.