OR...
You have a bad ground return and for the fail to occur - intermittently - indicates it may be not just temperature - but vibration - shifting position - losing contact - condition.
If you have a loose wire on the Indicator turn signal side - you would know because it only affects one side. But...did you have a chance to inspect the "cancel" mechanism - the one by the clock-spring? (Or how the wheel returns back to "center" ) The location of the switch to the cancel "node" is pretty tight and needs some clearance - a bent shaft of the steering wheel or any debris on it can force the cancel signal early - so the switch assembly needs to be seated and the clips it's rests on - set firmly into their notches so the cancel can be detected and not have the switch grommet or anything else on the stem of the switch or housing cover force it to cancel or move the arm out of position because of the wiring mess under the cover not fitting right.
- - Congratulations on getting it off - most people just give up and buy a whole new/used steering wheel assembly
- You would have more problems trying to re-center the wheel and clockspring so it can seat and provide the clearance needed to make the cancel "lobe" work right. So you're not having those issues.
- So the only other thing I can think of is the cover and base bottom - any pinch clip or failed tabs not seating right?
- There is one other thing (several in that area)
- Are you having trouble engaging and disengaging the tilt steering mechanism?
- - if it's too easy to move it can force the cover to "bend" at specific times of driving because of the shaft to column clearance might be too much - shoving the cover down or over - forcing the switch to move the grommet and cancel the turn prematurely
- If you can operate the tilt steer - lever - watch how it "drops" if you see the cover tilt in one direction or another the free-play in the mechanism needs to be fixed - the tilt can cause the stress on the lever to cancel.
- Any loose or excess free-play can be somewhat corrected by just tightening two bolts where the cover when taken off - meets the shroud and cross member - it holds the steering column when the tilt mechanism is "set" in position for the driver.
Now, did you have any issues with wiper arm? Kinda gave the indication you did else I think you meant it as you found out it was a combination switch and it looks much like an elongated horseshoe.
I wouldn't call it a loose motor - but did you remove the wiper arms and pull off the shroud to examine the Wiper Arm transmission linkage and motor? In some instances, loose arms from bolts that have come loose (rare but when jammed with ice or glued to the windshield from hot weather - certainly it's possible - it can occur) a bad bushing can cause this with the intermittent setting - the arm pops out of the bushing at the pivot and so it's left sitting there until the motor action brings the arm and pivot with missing bushing - back into alignment and the arms continue as normal.
The issue with the loose bolts - the holes for the linkage the arms are mounted on can get corroded or stripped - they just need to have the arms pulled off, that spindle and it's grooves cleaned - and reseated and bolts tightened may be all that it needed.
To check the bushings each arm has one, just try to rotate the arm up from the parked position up and on - using the windshield - any 1/4 of the distance up from the parked position - means a bad bushing - it will need service or you can find someone to help you - just loosen and remove the bolts, pop off arms and remove the cowl cover to expose the transmission and you should be able to see those pivot points and get a grommet kit to fix them.
A Knurl is just another word for "seat" so if the arm looks too polished
and the arm moves too freely - it's best just to replace the assembly.
The polishing is from the arm and the knurl moving in two different directions
grinding away and enlarging the hole.
So it has less friction to hold the arm and shaft together to complete the wipe.