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1.0 Cooling problems

CoJack

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2016 Fiesta SFE
#1
2016 Fiesta w 80k miles. Last year the water pump started leaking. The engine got hot and cut back on power. We got it to a shop and they replaced the water pump. Recently, it overheated again (not critically but enough for the idiot light to come on). We filled it up and got it to the same shop. They are telling us the cooling system passed a pressure test so the coolant is leaking.....they don't know where. They want 3 hours diagnostic time to figure that out. Head gasket would be the obvious thought. Anyone have any input? The car isn't worth more than maybe $3000 but has been very reliable and economical up until now. Is it worth replacing a head gasket and are we likely to have a reliable car again or is this just the first of a constant string of repairs that will be needed? Remanufacture engine? Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated.
 

Handy Andy

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#2
The choices are few, after a given level of use, the motor - being turbo a 1.0L is a 3 cylinder and that small block might be going out. As in; not just a new gasket but a re-machined head to keep the warping it may have had happen - causing this overheating condition - needs to be fixed.

I relaize the miles and the pressure test showing a leak - it may be time for another motor to get put into it.
 
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CoJack

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Thread Starter #3
Here is an update. Meineke wanted $12000 to install a new Ford engine. It would be about the same at a Ford Dealer - no markup on the engine but much higher labor rates. If I had $12000 to throw at a $5000 car, I'd buy the engine from Ford and pay their labor rates. It would work out about the same.
Meineke's other option was to replace the head gasket but they couldn't quote "until they got in there" with assurances that something is probably warped, it may not last long, and you should just get a new engine. I found a local engine shop who would pull it, strip it down to the bare metal and rebuild it w 6 yr 60000mile warranty around $7500....more than the value of the car but I like generous warranties and local talent. My wife loves the car so this is still option #2.
Since I don't think I could make an already ruined engine much worse, I'm trying a head gasket sealer product called K-Seal Ultimate (anyone who has used this before, please feel free to share your experience!) . Pour it into the radiator or overflow tank and idle the engine up to normal operating temp for about 5-10 minutes. Let the engine cool completely. Then just drive it. I didn't drive it, I did the heat cycling at idle 4 times with the coil off the plug on the offending cylinder (#2). Each time I would check coolant level at both hot and after it cooled. It was dropping a little but I thought it was just burping some air (more later). Then I heat cycled the engine two more times with the coil back on ole #2 for 20-30 minutes easing the revs up to no more than 3000 just a few times each cycle. Checked the plugs, all were dry and clean. Topped off with coolant and then a 30 minute easy test drive with 3000 rpm max. Let the engine cool completely. Check levels. Then a 45 minute test drive with some lower rpm full throttle and revving to 4500 max. No white smoke, clean tailpipe, no leaks. Slowly backing off the coolant reservoir car while hot and it's clear we are holding pressure now. I had just done an oil change a week before. Checked the oil again and noticed the oil level was a bit high. The underside of the filler cap had some white froth - clear sign that at some point coolant got into the oil - so I did another oil & filter change. Oil was very dark considering it was only 2 weeks old. Found a little bit of metal in the drain pan. Cut open the filer but did not find any metal in it. I will need to keep an eye on the coolant level and engine oil to make sure it's not still leaking coolant into the oil. Coolant level is no stable. I don't think we are burning much if any anymore. We will drive it easy but at this point I am hopeful that I can keep this thing running for another 3 to dare I say 12 months. My optimistic view of what happened is a small warp or damaged head gasket caused by failed water pump about 9 months ago. It may have been leaking very slowly for a while and got to the point where there wasn't enough coolant for the hot day, resulting in the most recent overheating and a bit more damage. If this stuff seals the leaks for any significant period of time, that would save me a bunch of money. I'm hopeful.
 

Handy Andy

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#4
Ok, (I'm not trying to preach here...) remember that this small motor is using a turbo, so don't do; a lot of panic starts, racing lights or other things that make you push the pedal to the floor - keep your foot out of it pretty much guarantees ANY motor will last nearly forever.
1719103275696.png
You may find later that in keeping the car, this may be a FAR better option to keep it running and drive-able under you, than to try and bail out to find another used car - that being used, might be someone else's wanting to be bailed out of a problem child and you wind up with more $$ having to get put into THAT one than the Fiesta you had.

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So another thing to look at too, change your oil levels more often - keep the viscosity up and the dirt down. Older oil tends to "gum up" from trapping the dirt, fumes and the "ash" from the burn off of the fuel charge leaves as a residue the oil collects and suspends in itself, the oil filter can only hold so much and when we talk turbo, those pressures make both the combustion chamber and the crankcase space where the pistons and crank roam - full of these by-products and the system has to somehow collect and re-burn it or trap it and deposit it somewhere else.
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Keep any eye on the level and color of your coolant too - pale or fading color to darker shades usually means contamination and possibly seepage of oil into the coolant - while lower fluid levels in the tank might indicate fluid pressures that mean the oil and coolant seals are not holding up to the driving needs. This usually is from the compression levels that motor makes just to get you where you need to be, the seals can't hold it - like it once did.
  • It may be prudent to offset this by changing the coolant during summer to winter and winter to summer seasonal changes to reduce the failure and cross contamination of fluids. You can stop doing that once you see less color-fading or dark fluid in that coolant tank - it means less chances that the head to block seal is going to fail - but again, this requires your due-diligence. You'll have to change it again once that color-change or fade occurs - the sooner it's noticed and changed, the better off you are.
  • The coolant - if left alone, by itself can keep the system it uses safe, but when you mix oil and dirt - the ability of that fluid to maintain integrity begins to drop, like; to a major fail if not taken care of.
1719103563916.png
Also - this deals with the integrity of the motor seals - if the bottom oil pan and it's seals are intact, and not leaking, makes this a simpler problem to solve, being that; stop over-pushing the motor more than you should, can go a long way in keeping the car working as a workhorse longer if you only changed to less aggressive driving habits.

However, as those above screenshots show from a YT vid series from this group Mend It Mod It (they're brits so they are dealing with an MK7 similar model) show what a 3-cylinder 1.0l Turbo is like and how and why its so hard to mend them...

As they found out, the most likely failure of the motor was due to a head gasket failure, so the motor's salvageable but the cylinder head needs machining (warped) amongst other issues, so the effort of making the vehicle move and the owners driving habits - are two main reasons these motors have problems - not from assembly but from the expectations people have in using these things to get to places faster or quicker than they should be used for.
  • In one of the above photos, an edge on view, the head gasket looks to be in two pieces, it's actually a sandwich item. Two plates of metal to mate with the upper and lower surfaces, and the media in the middle keeps the seal and pressures to their sides of operation. So the "edge on view" in the photo plainly shows failure of the media, and so the metal itself was left open to warp under the heat and pressures - causing the fail. This may be the next stage you'll be facing with this motor unless a tear-down and rebuild is done. Which by labor costs alone, puts you into the former condition of having to replace this motor-never an easy choice nor ever a cheap one.
    • However, the keeping of the vehicle as a shell for the replacement motor might be the better options than to try and bail out of the older vehicle you came to know and appreciate and trained (by it) to use for everyday means of transportation and the freedoms given by the choice you made.
    • I will attest that to simply move onto the next vehicle may leave you disappointed by the level of complexity, options and the styles and actions available to operate the replacement vehicle, it will be vastly different.
  • In the past few years there has be a paradigm shift in perception about vehicle ownership and usages - so anticipate that the next generations to follow us, will have different approaches and opinions about your vehicle
    • Its best to stay prudent to the choices you made, and will make in the future, for your next purchase - it may be necessary to upgrade without any choice in this. Remember, that to take it or leave it - this action may be the very choice you make for your future.
 

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