powershift transmission...tranmission malfunction service now...

On my 2014 Fiesta today coming home from work going about 75mph all of sudden felt like it went into neutral or lower gears as rpm's shoot up and speed decreased. managed to get home but when it would shift gears it was like it didn't want too go in gear. It would rev up jerk and make grinding rattling noises and of course the transmission malfunction service now warning /wrench came on. Got home and noticed don't have reverse but do have a forward but too close to my shop to drive to check other gears as need to back up..lol. I scanned for codes and got no codes, battery tested good and I cleaned the grounds 3 weeks ago. I Removed actuator B (No reverse and I know that controls it) and was able to rotate the forks 10x CCW and felt no resistance and it spun back. Also little back story on this transmission. 4 weeks ago got a CEL for actuator A stuck on but would happen intermittently. My brother works at dealership (desk jockey) and said they could replace the TCM for free due to the warranty which they did although I knew that wouldn't fix it but free is free. I also went ahead and replaced A actuator and no issues since well until today. Car has 138k on it and I've read that the clutch life is about 150k but I'm thinking since appears related to not to all gears and appears possibly just B actuator gears that it possibly just went BUT if a actuator goes out shouldn't it throw a code? If the new actuator doesn't fix it hopefully by then my new Bi-directional scanner will be here for my indepth testing and I may just go ahead and replace the clutch. Whats your opinion /suggestion on this? Thanks!

I don’t have the DPS6 in my daily Fiesta’s. But it seems like a rational plan that you are pursuing in isolating and resolving this problem. I have seen a few DPS6 Fiesta’s that have way over 150,000 miles of predominantly highway use that are not close to needing a clutch pack replacement. I think how the transmission was used has a big factor in how much useful life it might have left. Keep us updated with your findings and results!

Thanks. This is my 2nd Fiesta as 1st one was a 2011 and suffered from shuttering. This one never gave me a issue until now.

Sounds like you've got this, but to offer some more help...

The Actuators consume a lot of power at a given moments notice - so the Alternator might need to be serviced or at least check that serpentine belt - if it's loose or worn it can cause a dropout where the regulator can't quite give the actuators the power they need to shift the forks. They spin but won't engage and cause that rattle and slip - even a grind or two from the lack of ability to push then into gear because the alternators' not there to help give it that push.

Had that happen on other Ford's in the fleet - Focus' are prone to this due to their exposed battery cable issues.

Check the Alternator output post and even those wires on that regulation connector and make sure that copper bolt is clean - there is supposed to be a rubber threaded cap that goes onto that post. If it's not fastened or has a weak grip / seal to the post, the corrosion in the section can cause those high-current demands not to get met and if it gets wet will cause a belt to fail - even catastrophic one - taking out the alternator itself.

Here's a quick test to help you in finding proof of the battery or wiring cables are causing this issue.

Find a use a DVM that is RATED and fused for this...

Take your DVM - set it for 5A DC setting (First; Test using a Higher Amperage setting - the meter is wired in a way to let it use a SHUNT in the meter as a measured level of resistance across the connection. The meter will simply sample it.) - connect the test leads for Current (A or I post hole) and of course - Ground (Negative - )

Start your car - let it warm up and idle for a few minutes to let the battery and charging system stabilize...

Positive Red test lead to that Alternator output post.
Negative lead to the Positive Post on the battery - not the starter alternator connector - the real positive post on the battery itself use a clamp if needed to help.

Turn on your headlights. Watch meter.

IF the reading goes up but stays below 100mA the Test passes. The system might need work if it's gone up past 200mA though - it means corrosion or needs help in getting power to the battery and the rest of the system.

IF the fuse blows in the meter - stop - the test failed and you've got issues with the cables to the charging post on the battery - the simple effort of the system pulling of current - if the cables were good - would have been less than that DVM's fused side. Since the fuse blew - shows the cables are corroded or have a high resistive connection that needs to be fixed - the DVM was connected directly ACROSS that bad connection - so the alternator pushed the power past that resistive connection using your DVM to do it. It found a easier path to push current to the demand - blowing the fuse inside the meter - you're meter is ok, just needs a new fuse.

• IF your DVM has a 10A setting - do this test using that post FIRST to help reduce the fuse blowing - it will not be as accurate but the initial test shows that the draw - if it's below 200mA then you can use the reduced setting which makes the DVM more sensitive to changes in current as loads are put on and turned off on the system.

IF the DVM Reading goes up past 100mA - the Cables and connections to the battery need help so you're going to have to clean up the connections and repeat this test until that mA reading is even below 100mA - which is possible on a new OEM system with clean connections and fresh set of cables to do this.

Thought I would give a update. New actuator on B didn't do anything. My new bi-directional scanner I let it run the transmission clutch test and B stuck on/fail /clutch travel test failed. I process now of removing transmission and install new clutch assembly but it's going to be slow go due a family emergency so just able to work on it every now and then. Also thanks Handy Andy for the advice on voltage/charging it all checked good and even the dealership checked them also prior to replacing the TCM

Finally got transmission out and apart. Found the clutch release bearing blew apart. Got the LUK clutch assembly from rockauto. Got one question regarding the shaft seals. From my reading Ford had 3 redesign of the seats both inner and out. Black which were prone to leak, second design brown and final design orange. Mine has the brown ones and shows no signs of leakage.However since I'm already there should I go and order the orange ones or is the brown ones good enough? Thanks!

Sorry to hear about the fail on the bearing.

You raise a good question about the "difference" between the Black Orange and you using Brown.

After finding out about the blowout, the concept of replace the throw-out bearing and just put it back together may work for many cases.

That would be fine except...if you plan on owning the vehicle or using it on the highway for commutes - the Orange seals - being now you have it apart, might not be a bad idea to swap out the brown and put in Orange if it's not too costly and it's easily feasible.

If its too much of a headache and downtime - you should be able to leave it alone. But, I follow the idea you are expressing here; as the seals themselves may be fine but the throw-out bearing failure might leave the seals in a torqued (stretched weakened) state due to pressures like, wobbles and vibrations they had to absorb thru the time this was happening - kind of like overstretched elastics and rubber bands - they work well until they encounter added stress levels beyond a given level of tension - they may develop a type of condition; like elastic memory and retain that level of losses in their elasticity and ability to seal for a time and may even use the leaked fluids that fill the gap to provide some sealing due to their surface tension and viscosity - until heat begins to break that down - along with that, are the pressures - like continued vibration and rotation on the seals.

Word of caution:

When you switch "color" of the seals, that also means the type of fluids in the transmission too.

Brown was more for standard LV Automatic Trans Fluid, but the Orange is more for the newer hotter engines which will transfer their heat from the block into that housing as simple thermal-dynamics and equilibrium - they become the motors heat sink until their temps rise and these new seals are more for the ULV Synthetic fluids used in them.

May go ahead and replace them as wont take much time if I buy the removal/installation tool...although I know I saw a vid while back of doing it without the tools but would rather play it safe and not have a oh crap moment. Don't think the different seals would call for a different fluid as Ford still calls for the XT-11 DCT fluid. May ask me brother as he works at a Ford dealership and see what his transmission guy thinks and what they would charge IF I bring them the transmission and they install the seals. Luckily I have 3 other cars to drive but none gets over 18 mpg and I drive 60 miles a day to work...Although is Fun driving my old Nova...lol