2015 SE HB Build

[Devastate]

The lowering coils I sent Lions Tooth are basically the stock European market coils I can’t recall the spec. But, it is not extreme at all.
The KYB dampers should be perfectly fine with the euro Fiesta springs. No ride degradation with the bonus of a lower polar moment of inertia. They should go together like pizza and beer!

Would these fit on my 2019 S sedan? do you guys know if they offer a more aggressive lowering kit that would fit my vehicle? or do you think the .5inches is about the most you'd wanna go? I'm just going for looks, not trying to turn my car into a time attack vehicle or something.

I'd like to get some nice white wheels, and a lowering kit. Any recommendations?

 

[scotman]

The Ford Fiesta suspension kit will give you the same spring set and dampers that is standard on the European market Fiesta. It is a very mild kit. The spring rate is soft and the drop is minimal.
if you want a slightly more aggressive ride and handling, you can get it on the ford kit if you are buying different wheels and tires.
Not knowing what exactly you have in mind for wheel width and diameter, I will offer the general guidance for the fiesta. Bigger wheel diameters(16 or 17 inch)are going to be heavier. Weight equals less performance and requires a more costly tire. The 15 inch diameter wheel is the ideal size and cost for a Fiesta. Unless you have a strong desire for looks over function and no problems with spending several hundred dollars more for a larger wheel setup that actually makes the car feel less nimble

 

[Devastate]

The Ford Fiesta suspension kit will give you the same spring set and dampers that is standard on the European market Fiesta. It is a very mild kit. The spring rate is soft and the drop is minimal.
if you want a slightly more aggressive ride and handling, you can get it on the ford kit if you are buying different wheels and tires.
Not knowing what exactly you have in mind for wheel width and diameter, I will offer the general guidance for the fiesta. Bigger wheel diameters(16 or 17 inch)are going to be heavier. Weight equals less performance and requires a more costly tire. The 15 inch diameter wheel is the ideal size and cost for a Fiesta. Unless you have a strong desire for looks over function and no problems with spending several hundred dollars more for a larger wheel setup that actually makes the car feel less nimble

I'm not really sure what width and diameter I should go for, I suppose I'm not really knowledgeable regarding that type of information. I tried to look at the tire size guide here on the froums but would probably need to look at / read through it a couple more times. I'm not opposed to keeping 15in wheels I was just hoping to maybe close that gap in the wheel well a bit for fitments sake, and I assumed bigger wheels would do that. But If I could lower it a few inches and still keep the 15's that would be ideal.

Any recommendations for brand / wheel size / width? I'm not really looking to take it to the track so I suppose stuff that is also viable for day to day kinda driving.
.
Or maybe some wheels like these oz's

I'd like to get white wheels similar to these. I think those are 17's though.

Where would one locate the ford suspension kits, or the kit you have?


Could I just get lowering springs
https://modinfinite.com/products/megan-racing-ford-fiesta-2011-fiesta-st-2014-lowering-springs
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/s...iesta?year=2019&make=Ford&model=Fiesta&trim=S
or would you guys recommend coilovers? Again going more for aesthetics when it comes to this stuff. But I think keeping the wheels 15'' is probably the way to go.

 

[scotman]

There is lots of discussion on this site regarding the available suspension upgrades. Every change made from stock will be a step closer to an undesirable situation as the flip side effect of the “improvement” that was your original intent. Coil overs will lower the ride height. The downside of that is the ride quality will be be much harder, especially so if you have heavy, large diameter rims.
The larger rims with the performance rated tires that those rims are designed to accommodate, come with the negative aspects of being very expensive and not very long lived. If you have poor roads in your region those low profile tires will be easily destroyed by pot holes or torn up pavement. In that harsh situation most people will never wear out a set of tires!
Tire rack has a great site to research tire and wheel choices.
You should start a thread in the wheel, tire and suspension sections and do some more research it will save you a lot of money and regret

 

[Handy Andy]

Although opinions do vary on kinds of tires, Wheel and Rim sizes, there are also the minors of Caster, Camber and Offset - which affect the handling using the tire on the rim of a selected size and the ability of that rim to handle the tire and provide performance.

You can get Performance, but it comes at a price of Friction - which means grab, but also Drag - as in losses to friction and heat as the tire rolls.

Performance could be thought of as - not just handling - but the ability to stay in the direction you want to go, in a turn or as straight ahead. Avoiding obstacles and the ability to absorb impacts - you the Driver need to be able to steer to keep the vehicle under control - so Performance can also mean just getting you thru the day - every day - until the rubber wears off and the tires need to be replaced.

Just don't cut the springs like others do...

... OR worse...

These guys do track.
Don't try this at home with your car...
​

Ok, I'm just going to get Blunt here, no offense...

Don't take our word for it, go find it out for yourself.

You have the example right in front of you - you just bought it...

Now, get under there and look, you'll see the tire, rim, the knuckle, tie rod, strut and it's spring, a control arm and it's Ball joint - even a Link and the ends of your Sway bar...

Note how the tire sits, where it's contact point to the pavement is...

See how that strut bears the weight...Spring is up on the top, and how the Struts' "shock absorber" mates with a mount and that mount bolts to the tower...

See how far in that wheel - tire and all? (The Wheel rim the outer show piece or design, the spokes that bear the weight and then the inside flange) - see how that recessed area - is?

​

• That is the OFFSET how far the tire is brought into (Back Spacing or Positive offset) or from (Negative offset) the center line of the wheel is mounted the hub and the steering knuckle and wheel bearing. - being bolted to the hub with the steering knuckle and that CV joint going to the transmission - see where the contact point is, and how nearly "in-line" with the Strut and at a height for the control arm to pivot up and down and not strike the pavement nor does the wheel strike or rub against the fender or the fender well.
• Some instances of SAE versus Metric and ISO - most offsets are now expressed in mm (Metric) while other Rims might be expressed as inches or fractions of inches in offset at a 1/100th in Decimal - an older standard based upon SAE.

IT's a pretty tight balance in there as a STOCK form of the Fiesta is.

When you make changes, where all that suspension sits, is going to be affected too.

The reason why Ford Chose these sets of sizes and nothing more or less, was really due to safety - for the passengers and the car to stay on the road. They chose a wide 6" X 15 with a 42mm Offset for the Rim size for the Fiesta to help with stability with makes the vehicle safer for more conditions that the driver will face than many realize.

The Offset is a Minor - but plays a big role in how the tire tilts and rides on a turn radius to make the car steer.

Offset is designed to let the tire and wheel work as close to the centerline of that "axis" that strut rotates using the Tie rod and that lower control arm to work against.

When you change Rim Size, you affect how much room you have to steer the car with that tire in there not bumping or rubbing against something - shortening the tire and the fender wells, life.

Change Rim size, means you'll have to find an Offset that helps you maintain aspect of Axis - or turn - and have the tire steer you without you having to fight the effort - just to make a simple turn.

This is where Oversteer and Understeer start to play a bigger role.

Something worth reading that might help...
​

Camber Thrust (Bump steer can be thought of as this) is another - and gets MAGNIFIED in force when you go wider tire and even lower the cars' clearance - because there is less room for rebound for the strut to work with. It's stiffer ride and lower height may make you look cool - but the lack of clearance and uneven road pavement can make a simple work commute, the biggest chore of the day - just to get home.

I could go on...

 

[econoboxrocks]

Although opinions do vary on kinds of tires, Wheel and Rim sizes, there are also the minors of Caster, Camber and Offset - which affect the handling using the tire on the rim of a selected size and the ability of that rim to handle the tire and provide performance.

You can get Performance, but it comes at a price of Friction - which means grab, but also Drag - as in losses to friction and heat as the tire rolls.

Performance could be thought of as - not just handling - but the ability to stay in the direction you want to go, in a turn or as straight ahead. Avoiding obstacles and the ability to absorb impacts - you the Driver need to be able to steer to keep the vehicle under control - so Performance can also mean just getting you thru the day - every day - until the rubber wears off and the tires need to be replaced.


Ok, I'm just going to get Blunt here, no offense...

Don't take our word for it, go find it out for yourself.

You have the example right in front of you - you just bought it...

Now, get under there and look, you'll see the tire, rim, the knuckle, tie rod, strut and it's spring, a control arm and it's Ball joint - even a Link and the ends of your Sway bar...

Note how the tire sits, where it's contact point to the pavement is...

See how that strut bears the weight...Spring is up on the top, and how the Struts' "shock absorber" mates with a mount and that mount bolts to the tower...

See how far in that wheel - tire and all - being bolted to the hub with the steering knuckle and that CV joint going to the transmission - see where the contact point is, and how nearly "in-line" with the Strut and at a height for the control arm to pivot up and down and not strike the pavement nor does the wheel strike or rub against the fender or the fender well.

IT's a pretty tight balance in there as a STOCK form of the Fiesta is.

When you make changes, where all that suspension sits, is going to be affected too.

The reason why Ford Chose these sets of sizes and nothing more or less, was really due to safety - for the passengers and the car to stay on the road. They chose a wide 6" X 15 with a 42mm Offset for the Rim size for the Fiesta to help with stability with makes the vehicle safer for more conditions that the driver will face than many realize.

The Offset is a Minor - but plays a big role in how the tire tilts and rides on a turn radius to make the car steer.

Offset is designed to let the tire and wheel work as close to the centerline of that "axis" that strut rotates using the Tie rod and that lower control arm to work against.

When you change Rim Size, you affect how much room you have to steer the car with that tire in there not bumping or rubbing against something - shortening the tire and the fender wells, life.

Change Rim size, means you'll have to find an Offset that helps you maintain aspect of Axis - or turn - and have the tire steer you without you having to fight the effort - just to make a simple turn.

This is where Oversteer and Understeer start to play a bigger role.

[URL="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Understeer_and_oversteer#:~:text=Understeer and oversteer are vehicle dynamics terms used,less than the amount commanded by the driver.] View attachment 7075 [/URL]​

Camber Thrust (Bump steer can be thought of as this) is another - and gets MAGNIFIED in force when you go wider tire and even lower the cars' clearance - because there is less room for rebound for the strut to work with. It's stiffer ride and lower height may make you look cool - but the lack of clearance and uneven road pavement can make a simple work commute, the biggest chore of the day - just to get home.

I could go on...

The ST model is the sporty version. It's lowered and has different wheels/suspension. Of course, Ford did all the work, and it handles like a go cart.
These guys are engineers. Those changes were done right by the performance division and made at the factory.
Messing with the standard Fiesta isn't that easy. It's made to be an economical small car that's practical and fun to drive. It is. Don't mess with success.

 

[Handy Andy]

Although this may have been touched on in other threads, the suspension is not the only thing "reworked" on an ST versus the everyday common Fiesta - they redid some braking as well.

​

ST's use Rear Disc brakes and some upgrade kits require some extra rework to install the rear drum pads that are used when you apply the parking brake - although this may sound silly - the ST does have a rear parking brake as a cam that moves the calipers "fixed" sides (squeezes) towards the rotor - effectively parking (applying) the pad to keep the vehicle from rolling when the parking brake is applied.

IN a refit kit- unless you wish to replace the calipers with the FORD ST OEM ones - the kits usually keep the cable and put in smaller pads that rub on the inside of the rotors section that take the recessed portion of the rotor to the raised part that meets the hub.

​

Kits like the ones shown above tend to try and keep the OEM hardware and functionality of the original brake hardware and support intact as much as possible to reduce the retrofitting cost in labor and parts (a considerable effort) so the kits to me, are a luxury I don't want to mess with - but for those that do - they are out there.

One thing that might help you find out more is to watch YT vids by the "Auto Repair Guys" - they have a heavy accent but take apart a Fiesta ST in "sections". Each time, they do-up a Video to help even an ordinary Fiesta owner - get clues as to how these things are put together and by watching them - be aware of edits - they usually take you step by step to show you how to take it off then to repair the process is reversed.

( @econoboxrocks - If I'm hijacking your thread - let me know... I'll segue this into another spot in the forum...)

 

[econoboxrocks]

It's all good. The engineer goes over all the changes to the car from the base model. They did a lot to it.

 

[Devastate]

The ST model is the sporty version. It's lowered and has different wheels/suspension. Of course, Ford did all the work, and it handles like a go cart.
These guys are engineers. Those changes were done right by the performance division and made at the factory.
Messing with the standard Fiesta isn't that easy. It's made to be an economical small car that's practical and fun to drive. It is. Don't mess with success.

Yeah I know, I get that the ST has all the fun stuff form the factory. The reason I stayed away was because of increased cost to own, more complex parts, fuel economy, higher price, etc etc... I'm really not trying to do anything crazy. Not trying to stance the wheels sideways. Just wanted to drop her a inch or two, get some nice wheels, and tints. I guess for me, I've always had oddball cars. Like at one point I had a 1995 Honda Accord Wagon (CE1) 5spd manual. Had enki rims, and tints on it. I just need to figure out what a happy median for wheel size would be in regards to comfort, economy, and price. I am not a fan of the low profile type tires and I live on Wisconsin. Our roads are like driving through a minefield.

 

[econoboxrocks]

Yeah I know, I get that the ST has all the fun stuff form the factory. The reason I stayed away was because of increased cost to own, more complex parts, fuel economy, higher price, etc etc... I'm really not trying to do anything crazy. Not trying to stance the wheels sideways. Just wanted to drop her a inch or two, get some nice wheels, and tints. I guess for me, I've always had oddball cars. Like at one point I had a 1995 Honda Accord Wagon (CE1) 5spd manual. Had enki rims, and tints on it. I just need to figure out what a happy median for wheel size would be in regards to comfort, economy, and price. I am not a fan of the low profile type tires and I live on Wisconsin. Our roads are like driving through a minefield.

The ST-Line comes with 16s. You might be able to find some wheels in that size. You wouldn't have to mess with the suspension to give it a sportier look. https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/res...toYear=2019&autoModClar=ST-Line&package=false

 

[econoboxrocks]

You may have already seen this before, but the Fiesta does a good job.

 

[scotman]

I don’t see anything unusual. If the FiST had been dk blue, I would have said it might have been me trying to get to the McDonalds that I know keeps their toilet paper dispenser stocked. Just kidding. Kinda.

 

[Devastate]

You may have already seen this before, but the Fiesta does a good job.

LOL I love how he puts the 4 ways on at the end, as if to indicate "he won." lmao. Of course the fiesta driver doesn't crash though.

 

[scotman]

The ST model is the sporty version. It's lowered and has different wheels/suspension. Of course, Ford did all the work, and it handles like a go cart.
These guys are engineers. Those changes were done right by the performance division and made at the factory.
Messing with the standard Fiesta isn't that easy. It's made to be an economical small car that's practical and fun to drive. It is. Don't mess with success.

I loved the general feel of the FiST. But, I have to say that the stock dampers are just very, very unnecessarily harsh. As in really punishing. I think that Ford just made a decision about the ride quality that didn’t take real world road conditions into account.
The Fiesta ST, in The American market, probably has it’s suspension modified as often as the Mustang. Based on a percentage of the total number sold.
Owners of the basic Fiesta can benefit from the wealth of good quality product that is just a few keystrokes away from landing on their doorstep.
Nobody has to endure a spine crushing ride to get a Fiesta that handles like a go cart. They just need to choose their components carefully.

 

[econoboxrocks]

I haven't had an issue. Different strokes, I guess.

 

[Handy Andy]

Nobody has to endure a spine crushing ride to get a Fiesta that handles like a go cart. They just need to choose their components carefully.

Don't mince words Mr. @scotman - just tell us what installs we need to put on - to offer that ride...

​

(...I tend to find Go-Karts are those very Spine Crushing Rides - we used to love being in as kids...)

 

[Dave88LX]

Don't mince words Mr. @scotman - just tell us what installs we need to put on - to offer that ride...

Yeah...just let us know what the magic formula is and I'll pull out the plastic LOL

 

[scotman]

Ok.
My autocross setup in 2012 was as follows.
Eibach Sportline or H&R super sport springs.
White line polymer control arm and rear axle beam bushings.
FR3 struts and rear shocks/ later developmental Koni Sports.
Eibach rear anti sway bar (internal type)
High durometer poly bushings for the stock front anti sway bar mounting points on the subframe and Powergrid adjustable end links.
Side locks on the sway bar at the outside of each bushing mount (to minimize the amount “side slip” or lateral movement as the sway bar did it’s thing)
One set of camber bolts for the front struts. Basically they are eccentric bolts that let me get a couple degrees of negative camber at the knuckle without the use of camber plates, which weren’t allowed in STF.
15x7 OZ Ultraleggera lightweight wheels.
205/50HR-15 Dunlop direzza star spec tires shaved to about half of full tread depth.
Additionally, my preparation included folding rear seat backs down, draining the washer fluid reservoir and relocation of the battery to the right rear corner. Measured fuel loads. Remove the spare tire and Jack equipment.
Remove all floor mats. Remove Big gulp from console cup holder. Find a place to pee before your run group goes out.
There were some other things I did. That were specific to the traction control and stability system issues that were interfering with going around corners quickly. They don’t apply to newer Fiesta’s. Sorry for the late reply. I had to go look through my notes from the build.
The changes I made resulted in a very firm but tossable Fiesta! Like a go cart. Too bad the stock gearing was fuel economy oriented. Specifically the huge chasm between second and third gears. If I could have changed third gear it would have been a much better “large course”car.

 

[Handy Andy]

I meant for everyday use...

But I do understand.

Especially when you added...

Too bad the stock gearing was fuel economy oriented. Specifically the huge chasm between second and third gears. If I could have changed third gear it would have been a much better “large course”car.

That has been the main issue of speed shifters like me - either lug the motor when you come around in third - or as you downshift and rev to match the 2nd gear - only to quickly shift up into third - and this is from those everyday commutes of just dealing with the shoppers trying to get into the mall traffic and you go about your day.

It's also why I like the slightly oversized tire the 185/70 R15's give me for this as they tend to take well to the 2nd to 3rd on those corners.

 

[scotman]

Yeah. The gearing is a real disappointment the engine is really pulling in 2nd gear and then I shift up into 3rd to go some more and the engine falls out of the sweet spot and just falls on its face. A 3rd gear that isn’t afraid of around 5,600 rpm’s would be delicious.